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It appears as though as our cars get older, many individuals are beginning to fail emissions, or get parts changed out that require a re-inspection.

In order to make it easy for everyone to avoid a "Not Ready" reading when they go for the test, I thought I'd post this information that I found while perusing the web.

For your reading interest I present The Federal Drive Cycle Test procedure - the steps you must take before bringing your car in for inspection after a DME reset, change in O2 sensors, etc.

View attachment Federal Drive Cycle Test Procedure.pdf

Doug
 

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Found that link yesterday, but thanks for posting. I think I have to get out before 7am to be able to run the durations without stopping in LA. Also keeping under 3k shifts is hard. How can I tell what is ready and not? I have a Peake tool, but do I need an OBDII computer?
 

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Thanks so much Douglas! Im going to give this another shot and try nail it all at once. Hopefully i can get my whole ordeal figured out and get thru aircare(smog).
 

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It appears as though as our cars get older, many individuals are beginning to fail emissions, or get parts changed out that require a re-inspection.

In order to make it easy for everyone to avoid a "Not Ready" reading when they go for the test, I thought I'd post this information that I found while perusing the web.



View attachment 84999

Doug
Great post. I wish I had this information after I had my DME reprogrammed. I had to drive 350 miles and had the car checked 4 times before the sensors were ready. The guy at the inspection station told me there was guy in there who had to drive 1200 miles before the sensors were ready. I followed another drive cycle program which, clearly didn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Found that link yesterday, but thanks for posting. I think I have to get out before 7am to be able to run the durations without stopping in LA. Also keeping under 3k shifts is hard. How can I tell what is ready and not? I have a Peake tool, but do I need an OBDII computer?
The only way to tell what is ready and what is not is through the use of a OBD2 tool. The Peake will not tell you.

d-
 

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Great post. I wish I had this information after I had my DME reprogrammed. I had to drive 350 miles and had the car checked 4 times before the sensors were ready. The guy at the inspection station told me there was guy in there who had to drive 1200 miles before the sensors were ready. I followed another drive cycle program which, clearly didn't work.

ouch. I had driven 200 miles and still i have 4 that wouldnt reset. Hopefully im not one of those 1200 mile ones. Thats a lot of costly day permits :(
 

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ouch. I had driven 200 miles and still i have 4 that wouldnt reset. Hopefully im not one of those 1200 mile ones. Thats a lot of costly day permits :(
The cycle isn't hard, but it isn't forgiving, either. Follow the instructions on page 1 and you'll be ready first time. Whether or not you pass is a whole different question :)

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The cycle isn't hard, but it isn't forgiving, either. Follow the instructions on page 1 and you'll be ready first time. Whether or not you pass is a whole different question :)

d-

Haha crap. Well the only thing stopping me is the stupid readiness monitors! Car runs fantastic otherwise! I swear certain manufactorers must be easier to set. I just ran a pathfinder thru at work, had 3 of the 4 set within 15 minutes of driving the car!
 

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Doug, great information. I just went through this myself, due to clearing some misfire/fuel pump relay codes after doing my fuel filter change. I mistakenly (I knew better, but forgot) went straight to the inspection shop after clearing the codes and got a evap Not Ready.

I went, filled up the gas tank (suggested by the mechanic), and drove it about 60-75 miles over the next day. I went back and prior to hooking up to the inspection machine, they verified all was ready by hooking up their OBD-II reader. All was well.
 

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The Federal Drive Cycle Test procedure - the steps you must take before bringing your car in for inspection after a DME reset, change in O2 sensors, etc.

View attachment 84999

Doug
Good info, if it isn't in the FAQ, perhaps one of the mods can add the link.cherrsagai
Regards,
Jerry
 

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So what device can you buy that tells you the readiness of the systems? I may want to get something so that I know before trying to retest. I already have a Peake reader.
 

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DouglasABaker,

I'm having a problem with my Catalytic Convertor, O2 sensor, O2 heater. I think my problem is that the I drive more than 15 minutes on the freeway but in excess of 60 mph. I'll try to keep it down in the recommended range and see how it goes.

Bob

Update:

Well I got back from running the one test 40 - 60 mph for 15 minutes. CC, O2 sensor & O2 heater still not ready. :-(. I'll try the 20 - 30 mph for 3+ minutes next and see what happens.
 

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So what device can you buy that tells you the readiness of the systems? I may want to get something so that I know before trying to retest. I already have a Peake reader.
mamsteria,

I picked up an Actron brand. I'm not sure if that is a good one or not. It does have the I/M readiness test so that's why I bought it.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #15
DouglasABaker,

I'm having a problem with my Catalytic Convertor, O2 sensor, O2 heater. I think my problem is that the I drive more than 15 minutes on the freeway but in excess of 60 mph. I'll try to keep it down in the recommended range and see how it goes.

Bob

Update:

Well I got back from running the one test 40 - 60 mph for 15 minutes. CC, O2 sensor & O2 heater still not ready. :-(. I'll try the 20 - 30 mph for 3+ minutes next and see what happens.
The test needs to be run in it's entirety, in the manner indicated in the document. You can't do one piece, stop, do another, etc. You need to do the WHOLE test.

d-
 

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The test needs to be run in it's entirety, in the manner indicated in the document. You can't do one piece, stop, do another, etc. You need to do the WHOLE test.

d-
OMG, are you serious? I've got 5 of the 8 lit up so I figured parts of the test could be run and enable the readiness codes. You either need to plan your route or be on a dyno in order to run the entire battery of tests.

Thanks Douglas at least that explains why the 3 codes hadn't lit up for me.
 

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The test needs to be run in it's entirety, in the manner indicated in the document. You can't do one piece, stop, do another, etc. You need to do the WHOLE test.

d-
OMG, are you serious? I've got 5 of the 8 lit up so I figured parts of the test could be run and enable the readiness codes. You either need to plan your route or be on a dyno in order to run the entire battery of tests.

Thanks Douglas at least that explains why the 3 codes hadn't lit up for me.
It doesnt have to be done all at once. But doing following the procedure without stopping is by far the fastest way. If you stop, the procedure stops and it will take probably a good week of solid driving including several cold starts to get the rest of them set.

Evap is by far the hardest one to set, not following the procedure ive been able to set all of them minus evap and SAI. SAI will usuall set itself after couple cold starts (to qualify for cold start vehicles coolant temp must be below 122F, but within 11F of ambient air temp at startup). Remember not to leave the key in the on position before starting it for long or the Oxygen sensor heater might not run.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It doesnt have to be done all at once. But doing following the procedure without stopping is by far the fastest way. If you stop, the procedure stops and it will take probably a good week of solid driving including several cold starts to get the rest of them set.

Evap is by far the hardest one to set, not following the procedure ive been able to set all of them minus evap and SAI. SAI will usuall set itself after couple cold starts (to qualify for cold start vehicles coolant temp must be below 122F, but within 11F of ambient air temp at startup). Remember not to leave the key in the on position before starting it for long or the Oxygen sensor heater might not run.
If you weren't able to set evap without doing the whole test isn't that the same as saying "you need to run the whole test to set the sensors"? Sure, you can set some of the sensors without doing the whole test, but some doesn't pass emissions testing in Green states.

d-
 

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If you weren't able to set evap without doing the whole test isn't that the same as saying "you need to run the whole test to set the sensors"? Sure, you can set some of the sensors without doing the whole test, but some doesn't pass emissions testing in Green states.

d-
You can have one incomplete in N.C.....
 
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