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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanted to get everyone’s opinion.

I just got the power disabled error on start up the other day and reduced engine power. (limp mode)

Got home and pulled the errors with ISTA+ and 002B22 002B2D. (see attached photo)

Both errors are on bank 2.

Going to replace.

Here are my questions.
  1. If I clear the errors is it safe to drive? (I know it will probably go back to limp mode, wondering about actual damage to anything)
  2. There seems to be to good options for replacements VDO (OEM new?) ~600usd or mpowermotorsports.org refurbished ~360usd. Anything else?
  3. Any issues with using refurbished? I don’t want to do this twice. So if VDO is better I will go that route.
  4. I am going to use the DIY thread here anything else I should know? - DIY: - Replacing throttle actuator motor with pics
  5. Should I replace both bank 1 and bank 2? (I don’t mind if bank 1 is just going to fail anyways)
  6. Once the new Actuator/s are in.. do they need to be initialized in ISTA or should I run any adaptions?
  7. Lastly, is there anything else I should replace while doing this? Any extra’s needed for the install? (bolts, o rings, etc.)

Thanks for any help.

951836
 

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1. Yes, ok to reset and drive.
2. Both are good options. Buying from FCP does give you an option to just replace with new units if they fail. VDO and OEM units are exactly the same, both made by VDO.
3. As far as I know Abdul's TBAs are fine.
4. Its not a hard job, just time consuming.
5. Yes, replace both to save time next time.
6. No initialization or anythign of the sort needed. Just start and go
7. Everything else can be re-used. There are few things that could be done while in there, like plugs, coils, ionics, etc, but unless you need to, unlikely you'd want to. Get a long and a flex extensions for plenum removal.

Here is a good DYI from Ryan:

Good luck!
 
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"Get a long and a flex extensions for plenum removal. " I use this super long screw driver -- But i think a hex socket with long extension should give more traction.
 

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"If I clear the errors is it safe to drive? (I know it will probably go back to limp mode, wondering about actual damage to anything) "

I use to disconnect battery to clear all errors and "reset" the car. However, i later realized it was just coincidental. The car performs the test after you power it on, and will set the limp mode if the throttle actuators don't respond correctly. The gears are worn out, and I kept driving the car in limp mode for nearly 6 months before replacing the TAs.

Taking the plenum off took me 3 months, some nights, in my garage, i used to just stare at the intakes wondering how i was gonna take it off. I didn't want to brake the plastic thing. In the end, i used a 6ft long galvanized pipe from Lowe's to pry it off. Since then, i can open the intakes now with my eyes closed, done it so many times.

I typically don't replace things when I am in there, even if its just $10. I try to go in, get out, with surgical precision now, and get just the problem job fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the replies.

TexaZ3 - Buying from FCP does give you an option to just replace with new units if they fail. - Can you explain? - Are you referring to the replacement units? I am assuming both refurbished and new have some sort of warrantee?

Found a couple of really good videos as well. Going to watch them a couple of times and take my time.

Here is another one. I think the one from Ryan is better. But both give good reference.


I guess there are couple of connections on the back of the plenum that you really don't want to break.

Ryan - Describes it here.

"So that hose actually runs to the back of the engine block above the transmission, and would require transmission removal to remove/replace that end of the hose. The part number for the hoses are 11617838897 (bank I) and 11617838898 (bank II). The connector is not replaceable independently, but you can buy a whole new hose, heat up the plastic around where the fitting presses in, and carefully remove it. Do the same on the broken one on the engine and press it in to place. I used another clamp on there just in case we compromised the plastic too much. Either that, or pull the transmission!"
 

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Thanks for all the replies.

TexaZ3 - Buying from FCP does give you an option to just replace with new units if they fail. - Can you explain? - Are you referring to the replacement units? I am assuming both refurbished and new have some sort of warrantee?

Found a couple of really good videos as well. Going to watch them a couple of times and take my time.

Here is another one. I think the one from Ryan is better. But both give good reference.


I guess there are couple of connections on the back of the plenum that you really don't want to break.

Ryan - Describes it here.

"So that hose actually runs to the back of the engine block above the transmission, and would require transmission removal to remove/replace that end of the hose. The part number for the hoses are 11617838897 (bank I) and 11617838898 (bank II). The connector is not replaceable independently, but you can buy a whole new hose, heat up the plastic around where the fitting presses in, and carefully remove it. Do the same on the broken one on the engine and press it in to place. I used another clamp on there just in case we compromised the plastic too much. Either that, or pull the transmission!"
FCP has a lifetime warranty on all parts they sell. It it ever fails (ever) they'll replace for free.
Yes, plenum has a couple of hoses that you need to carefully remove/clip back on. They are rather hard to reach or people simply don't know about it and break those connectors off, which is like Ryan mentioned, a PITA to replace.
 
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There are two connections in the back - the plastic tabs should be pressed, and pulled out to release.
The cabin air filters are coming off, then the strut bar.
There are two connectors in the front, take them off.
Take the plenums off, i rotate them to the sides and don't take the side vacuum tubes for PCV valves.
You have to disconnect the battery terminal, and lift the electrical harness up(take the positive battery terminal connection off also near the front right of engine).
Once you have access to the two TAs, taking them out is easy. Nothing should be a "struggle" while working on these -- if you are struggling, take a step back
and see what else has to be moved or lifted a little bit to ease the work.

Replacing the plastic gears inside is super duper easy if you did all of the above lol. They cost $75, and if your electronic board is working correctly, the TAs
will not fail again for a good while. The new black colored plastic gears are supposed to be more robust, and not prone to failure.

Just DM me if you need anything on this ! Will be glad to assist !
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I’ve done both of mine at 65k
Highly recommend rebuild.org.uk
They give life time guarantee
Thanks.
mpowermotorsports.org is the North American (US/Canada) reseller for rebuild.org.uk
Just waiting for mine to ship.

FCP and other retailers offer a lifetime as well. (just cost more)

With the amount of time involved to change these.. I would like to do them once. (if possible)

Also having the actuators fail and not being near home would not be fun.
 

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Thanks.
mpowermotorsports.org is the North American (US/Canada) reseller for rebuild.org.uk
Just waiting for mine to ship.

FCP and other retailers offer a lifetime as well. (just cost more)

With the amount of time involved to change these.. I would like to do them once. (if possible)

Also having the actuators fail and not being near home would not be fun.
Thanks.
mpowermotorsports.org is the North American (US/Canada) reseller for rebuild.org.uk
Just waiting for mine to ship.

FCP and other retailers offer a lifetime as well. (just cost more)

With the amount of time involved to change these.. I would like to do them once. (if possible)

Also having the actuators fail and not being near home would not be fun.
Only one of mine failed but I did both as didn’t want to have to strip it down again .
A tip , when you’ve fitted them and have the electrical connections all back together and with the plenums off test the operation of the new units , just with ignition on , engine not started you can push the gas peddle to the floor then release and the actuators will operate to fully open and then close . I learnt the hard way as I put mine all back together and one actuator didn’t work , I had not fully pressed a plug together , it was not quite clicked tight .
One more tip , I put a tiny bit of silicon grease around the inside edges of the plenum hoses, makes them slip over the throttle bodies much easier and stops them folding in .
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Only one of mine failed but I did both as didn’t want to have to strip it down again .
A tip , when you’ve fitted them and have the electrical connections all back together and with the plenums off test the operation of the new units , just with ignition on , engine not started you can push the gas peddle to the floor then release and the actuators will operate to fully open and then close . I learnt the hard way as I put mine all back together and one actuator didn’t work , I had not fully pressed a plug together , it was not quite clicked tight .
One more tip , I put a tiny bit of silicon grease around the inside edges of the plenum hoses, makes them slip over the throttle bodies much easier and stops them folding in .
Only one of mine failed but I did both as didn’t want to have to strip it down again .
A tip , when you’ve fitted them and have the electrical connections all back together and with the plenums off test the operation of the new units , just with ignition on , engine not started you can push the gas peddle to the floor then release and the actuators will operate to fully open and then close . I learnt the hard way as I put mine all back together and one actuator didn’t work , I had not fully pressed a plug together , it was not quite clicked tight .
One more tip , I put a tiny bit of silicon grease around the inside edges of the plenum hoses, makes them slip over the throttle bodies much easier and stops them folding in .
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update.
I installed these last week. Took about 6 hours.

Here are my notes and suggestions.

1. The front rubber clip the holds the plenums together is just pressed on. I thought it had screws holding it on.
2. The back throttle bodies are a pain. An extension with universal joint and patience. Also good lighting and locate by feel first.
3. I did test the throttle actuators before putting it back together. Thanks M500MVS.
4. I used a little silicone spray on a rag and then wiped the inside the rubber on the plenums.
5. Make sure the plenum seats all the way down on the throttle bodies. I tighten one before it was seated and had to redo it.
 
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