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Failed smog test yesterday. I have they dreaded AA code and 69. Also the OBD system was not ready to check. Here are the results.
 

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Need to see the whole page. Scan it if you can or at least tape flat to a table. How old are the O2 sensors? When were the codes last cleared? Is the SES lit? How warm was the car?
 

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Need to see the whole page. Scan it if you can or at least tape flat to a table. How old are the O2 sensors? When were the codes last cleared? Is the SES lit? How warm was the car?

Not sure about the O2 sensors. I cleared the codes about 5 minutes before I dropped it off. I ran it from work, so it was a good 20 minutes of freeway driving. The SES light is not on when smogged.
 

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Get an OBDII Bluetooth reader. Install Torque Pro app on iPhone/Android.

Plan to do SMOG early in the morning, when it is cold. In morning after turning car on, reset SES, AA and other codes.
This will cause the 'OBDII emissions systems' readiness status to reset to 'Not Ready'.


Android Torque app screenshot showing all but 2x systems READY.

You can have one system 'Not Ready' which in your case will be the "Secondary Air System'- the AA code.
(For me it wasn't the AA code but the thermostat was triggering SES light, wanted to pass SMOG right then, without spending time changing it).
The car needs 2 or 3 cold starts to trigger SES light for AA. The trick is to get all Emissions systems ready ASAP without doing cold starts.

Make sure you have right below half gas of tank (about 1/3).
Drive to gas station and fill up to right above half tank. Drive around and monitor w/ Torque "OBDII Readiness" for EVAP system. If not triggered as READY by additional fuel in about a mile or two, drive around the block and add another 2-3 gallons. Try again. Eventually increments of additional fuel should trigger READY.

Then for the rest of Emissions systems- drive around on Freeway with Torque App while monitoring Emission System readiness. All systems (except Secondary Air) *should* set to READY in about 20-30 miles. Keep RPM's consistent in 3-4 K range for longer periods of time (I noticed this decreased calibration time), ALSO this will warm up the cats but keeps the engine relatively cool from the morning air/breeze.

Call ahead, make sure SMOG station is ready to take you right as you arrive. When arrive at station keep car running but pop open hood to help cool engine.
When pulling into station ask the technician to keep hood open until very last moment when they have to close it for the test, ask technician and to rev engine @ 3000 rpm for 30 seconds right before test.

The idea is to keep the catalytic converters as hot as possible and engine as cool as possible. Heat is the enemy of passing smog (in terms of engine temp).
This should make it pass. Hope this helps. Worked for me every time, just passed with flying colors at 152,000 miles and original oxygen sensors.

**NOT sure what 69 code is for, but hopefully requires cold starts to get triggered.. which would mean the SES light reset will keep it away for this run.

More info:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/212602-easily-smog-my-car-california.html

Side note:
It helps to be a little more descriptive in your post, explain situation, etc.. not just dropping a document as attachment and call it a day.
Most people who been here for a while hear/see same questions over and over and it rattles the chains to respond to each question in perpetuity. So the key is to first use SEARCH function or Google 'm5board bla bla stated problem'.... that will entice more people to help you out. The thread title is the worst in history.. I only clicked here because I was expecting photos of connecting rods sent through engine walls.
 

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Great info Tera.

"Keep RPM's consistent in 3-4 K range for longer periods of time"

Tech's at BMW dealer (Texas) told me similar things to generate readiness codes fast as possible. Think they said something about driving at 2000-2500 rpm for ~10 miles and then 3000-3500rpm for about 10 miles, keeping speed as constant as possible.
 
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Failed smog test yesterday. I have they dreaded AA code and 69. Also the OBD system was not ready to check. Here are the results.
If the 69 stays after reset, you need a new thermostat.
 
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G
Make sure you have right below half gas of tank (about 1/3).
Drive to gas station and fill up to right above half tank. Drive around and monitor w/ Torque "OBDII Readiness" for EVAP system. If not triggered as READY by additional fuel in about a mile or two, drive around the block and add another 2-3 gallons. Try again. Eventually increments of additional fuel should trigger READY.
Terabass, just curious, any idea why that works?
 

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Terabass, just curious, any idea why that works?
The EVAP system needs to cycle a full->empty tank of gas, making sure there's no air leaks, etc. Exactly what triggers the computer to set READY I am not sure, but suspicion is the fuel level floater arm in fuel tank sensing fuel level, while whole system is air proof.
Having a bad/loose fuel tank cap will trigger EVAP SES.
 

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The EVAP system needs to cycle a full->empty tank of gas, making sure there's no air leaks, etc. Exactly what triggers the computer to set READY I am not sure, but suspicion is the fuel level floater arm in fuel tank sensing fuel level, while whole system is air proof.
Having a bad/loose fuel tank cap will trigger EVAP SES.
I remember seeing somewhere that crimping over the line that goes to the fuel cap on the inspection machines during the fuel cap test will result in a pass.
 

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In CA, none of this works

FYI, in CA, none of these tricks to pass smog will work, until the computer goes through one or more COLD starts, the code will stay in memory, even though your Peake reader won't see it, the smog check folks do, and fail the car.
 

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FYI, in CA, none of these tricks to pass smog will work, until the computer goes through one or more COLD starts, the code will stay in memory, even though your Peake reader won't see it, the smog check folks do, and fail the car.
Shake my head.:rolleyes: That is not what the tech sees! What he sees is not ready. The codes are gone once you clear them. No scanner will see them. Some of us have more comprehensive equip than smog places. Triggering ready can be done in two drive cycles. I am hard pressed to think it can be done in one. I have posted the DIY on how to keep the AA code from ever triggering, just by driving a certain way.

Certainly what was posted would work.
 

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Codes and readiness are different!

You can clear the codes and they will not return unless the malfunction that triggers that code is present.

Readiness checks are in place to allow each emissions reduction system to have been through a variety of conditions or parameters to ensure it is functional. Not all cars have every system.

Here is some info I found after a quick search:

OBDII drive cycle explained/smogging

http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Bulletin/DTC.BMW/BMW FTP72 Drive Cycle Procedure.pdf

http://www.obdautodoctor.com/scantool-garage/obd-readiness-monitors-explained/
 

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FYI, in CA, none of these tricks to pass smog will work, until the computer goes through one or more COLD starts, the code will stay in memory, even though your Peake reader won't see it, the smog check folks do, and fail the car.
It does work. I had failed Secondary Air Pump throwing SES light, I reset system, got everything ready except Secondary Air Pump in less than 20 miles of driving. One can have one 'Not Ready" on the EVAP systems (Secondary Air Pump, which requires couple cold starts to turn to READY) and passed smog check. Hassle- yes, but it works.
 

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FWIW, I somehow tricked my car into setting the SAS to "READY" even though its constantly triggering a SES--during the winter no less!

Here's how I did it:
Get car all warmed up. Reset all codes. Drive around like described above to get everything else "ready." Park car. Every ~90 min, go out and restart the car, let the coolant and/or oil get up to operating temp. Repeat. I think the ECU logic is fooled in that it's had enough "cold starts" without seeing an error, but the "cold starts" weren't cold enough to trigger the SAP and throw the error.
 

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FWIW, I somehow tricked my car into setting the SAS to "READY" even though its constantly triggering a SES--during the winter no less!

Here's how I did it:
Get car all warmed up. Reset all codes. Drive around like described above to get everything else "ready." Park car. Every ~90 min, go out and restart the car, let the coolant and/or oil get up to operating temp. Repeat. I think the ECU logic is fooled in that it's had enough "cold starts" without seeing an error, but the "cold starts" weren't cold enough to trigger the SAP and throw the error.
What were ambient temps? What do you estimate the engine temp was each time you restarted??
 
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