Looks like the price for the solenoids went up... WAY UP! Tischer BMW is selling them for $1,100 a pop. I remember when they were around 300-400. If you're just replacing the solenoid o-rings, it will cost a couple of bucks if you're doing it yourself.
CPS sensors are still around $90 each.
Just my luck.Yep,solenoids got recently very expensive....
Did you check for cracks around the O2 sensors,btw?
So, surprised that I have a vanos issue that is causing no codes, no issues, just running a bit rich.
My plan- replacing:
- All 4 CPS,
Will check solenoid screens for debris/damage.
- All solenoid o-rings (both banks).
Thoughts?
A
PS Anyone replace solenoid assemblies recently? What are those puppies running ($$)? I'd usually buy parts prophylactic, but these are not hard failures, and the price for two is a bit surprising....
I have yet to do it, but I did read the referenced thread and it seems like its better to just leave them as is if they are using red LT on them. IMO I would remove them without removing the grub screws, and then once removed, if I looked at the cover and decided it was a good idea to boil/ heat and get them out of there. If you already have tried to remove a few, I would say remove it and boil the rest loose. If they are all still in there locked, I don't see much advantage from removing them.Quick Question:
Grubb screws that pretension the solenoids are impossibly tight. TIS says remove these first...by hand says I will strip it first.
Thread says: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/150762-vanos-grub-screws-tight.html
Can I leave these 'as is'? Reusing the same solenoid, just changing oring and gasket. Should maintain proper preload? Or should I remove cover first, then boil or heat to remove grubbs?
Thoughts?
(Quickly...)
A
Removed the outer bolts and removed the cover. Then heated the grubbs and reused, using a hot air gun (for shrink wrap)I guess I should have read the TIS I just removed the covers. I loosened the center bolt first then snugged it back up. I removed the outside bolts then removed the center one. Things will be different when you reassemble. The tension on the grubbs will screw up the torque of the retaining bolts. You may just have to tighten them to a higher torque. I think the grubbs are there to just stop them moving. Should not make a huge difference. The gasket is just a dust shield. Reuse the old one if it does not break, that way the distance is unchanged.
How were your co2 levels? Did the NOX value change with the change in O2s?
You needed to that work anyway but I doubt that will have any effect on your e test. Here is my test results when I bought the car with all the things wrong with it. 1 hard open solenoid, 3 slow solenoids, hard orings, 2 code throwing cps, 2 weak exhaust cps. The exhaust cps were masked by the 4 bad exhaust solenoids, which were probably caused by the 2 bad post cat O2 sensors. Fortunately we only have a gas test not a OBD check because my SES was as bright as the high beams. I should mention you would pass up here with your readings.My results:Removed the outer bolts and removed the cover. Then heated the grubbs and reused, using a hot air gun (for shrink wrap)
Personally I don't think it is that critical.
So, did it work? Dunno. Car feels strong- placebo effect at work.
I've driven it a bit, LT fuel trims are moving around, but I have no way to reset VANOS adaptations.... so we will see. And no way to check emissions.
Initially my failure was HCs only. CO% was at 0.07, 0.08% and NO(ppm) was 0 and 1. After replacing pre and post cat O2 sensors (posts were original, pre had 60k on them) there was no change at all.
Methyl hydrate? Need to google.You needed to that work anyway but I doubt that will have any effect on your e test. Here is my test results when I bought the car with all the things wrong with it. 1 hard open solenoid, 3 slow solenoids, hard orings, 2 code throwing cps, 2 weak exhaust cps. The exhaust cps were masked by the 4 bad exhaust solenoids, which were probably caused by the 2 bad post cat O2 sensors. Fortunately we only have a gas test not a OBD check because my SES was as bright as the high beams. I should mention you would pass up here with your readings.My results:
first number is high RPM second is idle. HC =34 and 29 CO was .02 and .09 last NO was 0 and N/A.
The only real work I did prior to the test was injector cleaner at double dose and then I put a an intake cleaner through the brake vacuum line and cleaned the inside. Next I put a 1/4 tank of low octane fuel in 89 and to that I added a liter of methyl hydrate.
96 octane for first test. 91 for second. Ethanol yes, this is KaliforniaWhen you went for your test what octane gas did you have in? Any ethanol in your gas? Are your injectors clean? Do you do a lot of stop and go low RPM driving? What is your oil consumption? When you had the plenum apart how much oil was present?
I know. Why I am still puzzzled.Here is a list of things that could cause high hc and nothing else high. Unburned gas or oil. Not to big a list. The list that can cause that is much longer but not that long and fairly easy to trouble shoot. First thing that comes to mind is poor atomization of fuel. Even with that you could pass as long as your octane is low. High octane resists fuel igniting due to heat. So if it is sitting on a carbonized surface or if the droplet size is to large it may not burn completely, then when it gets to the cat it does not want to convert. The fuel is not to blame but high octane only does you good in a good clean engine. The use of methyl or ethanol is good because the particle size of the gas is further reduced and I am told has fewer measurable HC per volume.
I still cannot understand why my long term fuel trims are running +5% if it is rich. How can the gas leaving the combustion chamber be rich, and not cause the O2s to dial back the trim???? I am not getting this.The dirty injector problem is compounded when there is unburned fuel because the pre o2 see more o2 than it should so it turns the trim up which usually makes things worse.
Thanks for the thoughts. Given the fact that I m reliably hitting 138 L/H I am guessing the fuel delivery is good. Injectors, however, might be something to consider. I tend to be a "screw it, if I am taking it apart, just replace it" kind of guy... but we shall see.First thing I would do for a no code fault is check electrical system and fuel supply then fuel delivery. It is almost certain that the electrical system is not at fault so just rule it out. Next thing would be to do would be to make sure the system has good pressure and volume. I think we can rule that out because you have no codes. Can't forget about it just not a good place to start. I would want to see the injectors but I am very lazy so I am going to cheat and look at them without seeing them.
The easy way is to hook up a fuel pressure tester in the fuel line. If you don't want to risk things you pick a spot before the fuel filter.
This is my rig for basic testing not accurate testing. It is made of some hoses a brass T and a cheap pressure gauge that goes to 100psi. None fuel rated except for the black line the gauge is for water pressure. The last critical part was salvaged from the end of a fuel filter. You can't se that part because it is clipped into the line from the tank.
This is the close up of the hook up and one of the places you must clamp off to isolate the test to the injectors.
This pic shows the last place you must pinch off to isolate the injectors.
After you install fire up the car and look for leaks fix them first. Shut off the car and pinch off the two lines indicated. Now watch the gauge and see if or how fast the gauge reduces pressure. The faster the gauge drops the more attention your injectors need. If the pressure holds for ten minutes, your injectors are not very dirty and are sealing but that does not mean they are spraying correctly. If I got to there I would add to my fuel some Lucas upper cylinder lube at double to triple dose.I have added a whole bottle to a 1/2 tank and within ten minutes at idle an injector that was not working started working. That injector is still in that car the guy just uses this stuff in every tank. I think that was three or four years ago. Run two tanks then only add the recommended amount. That stuff works wonders on injectors. Think about it your injectors have been sitting in gas for 7 years and this stuff just makes thing slide better.
Hopefully this will give you some ideas, you are with the car so only you can decide the right path.
Best of luck
Thanks- They UPS redded them to me on Friday, got them Sat AM. I justified it by all the $$ I saved by DIYing.Hey Adam,
I have a set of 4 new CPSes that haven't been installed yet. I know sometimes Tischer can take awhile to ship, if you need any loaners to get your smog done before the deadline, I'd be glad to help out.