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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys. Tried searching for some relating threads but many had outdated information so I decided to make a post. Wanting to upgrade the stereo system in my 00. Will be running aftermarket components in the front/coax speakers in the back, 12” sub and a 5 channel amp. Signal summing will be handled by an Audiocontrol LCi6. Two questions:
1- Where is it recommended to pull signal from, before or after dsp?
2- Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the dsp plugs that they are willing to share?
 

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I used this thread for my audio install. He basically labels every wire. So helpful. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I used this thread for my audio install. He basically labels every wire. So helpful. Good luck!
Thanks! That answers one question, now I need to figure out where to take signal from, before or after dsp amp.
 

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Hi MoeMoneyM5,

The signal summing function is to 'sum' together the independent or Crossed Over frequencies that are output from the DSP amplifier. So you will connect 'after' the DSP amplifier i.e feed all the speaker level outputs from the DSP amp into your LC6i.

Ensure you have a solid subwoofer enclosure made which 'vents' through the ski hatch so that 100% of the sub bass 'flows' into the cabin. Similarly, ensure you ditch the OEM plastic pods in the front doors, and replace using solid baffles like the ones sold by 12V Electronics.com, so that the front components will play much better.

Cheers, Dennis!
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Hi MoeMoneyM5,

The signal summing function is to 'sum' together the independent or Crossed Over frequencies that are output from the DSP amplifier. So you will connect 'after' the DSP amplifier i.e feed all the speaker level outputs from the DSP amp into your LC6i.

Ensure you have a solid subwoofer enclosure made which 'vents' through the ski hatch so that 100% of the sub bass 'flows' into the cabin. Similarly, ensure you ditch the OEM plastic pods in the front doors, and replace using solid baffles like the ones sold by 12V Electronics.com, so that the front components will play much better.

Cheers, Dennis!
Dennis thanks for the info! That’s what I needed. Will be building pods for the front doors, and figuring out what I want to do as far as my sub enclosure is concerned. My beast doesn’t have flip down seats, so I don’t think I have a ski hatch but I will double check.
 

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Hi MoeMoneyM5,

Have a quick read through of this install in a local to me E39 from a decade ago now!


Although he went to 'show level' with lashings of Alcantara, perspex & lighting in the boot/trunk area along with the floorpan/roof/doors in sound deadening material, the fundamentals are the same for any E39 saloon/sedan. I'm fairly sure your car will have the ski hatch area available, having the split/fold seats won't make a difference. In the rare case you still have a metal piece where the ski hatch is, it's non structural so you'd be able to cut a 10 inch or so side hole. I think the ski hatch area already has the cutout there so it's a case of just punching it out lightly if that's the case. For any saloon car and especially in more solidly built cars like BMW's, it's a tried and tested method of getting excellent, musical and controlled smooth and low sub bass into the cabin cost effectively. Design and seal the enclosure well from the bulkhead to the rear of the enclosure, and 100% of the sub bass will flow into the cabin - you won't need any sound deadening material in the trunk as you'll have zero trunk lid vibrations and number plate rattles that SO many other less than best practice sedan/saloon cars have.

Will you be building door builds & pillar pods for the front doors and the particular components you'd be wanting? There's some excellent designs for E39 door builds, but they're more elusive nowadays to find, so it's a case of having them custom made. I have my own design door builds in my E39 Touring (hoping to manufacture them again in due course)

Here's my writeup for my audio install in my Touring, 80% of it is essentially the same as a saloon/sedan, just location of the rear subwoofer and of course no barriers to hinder the sub bass output into the cabin area


If you're idea to 'hang' your aftermarket audio off the OEM setup is mainly to keep the OEM looks in the dash, well it just so happens there's a solution now for which you can have very close to OEM looks in the dash and run a high quality and better sounding head unit (as compared to the OEM audio) which looks after that requirement very well :)

Cheers, Dennis!
 
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