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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought an used set of BMW OEM ULF bluetooth kit for my 99'/10 E39 540i.
My car came with original BMW 16:9 screen, TV tuner, CD changer and Navigation.



Here is my question:
When I finished the wiring job, I can pair with my phone no problem.
But after I success pair and start to call out someone, I cannot hear what they say, and they cannot hear me either.



I think I might jump to the wrong wire (Tel out+/-),.... :(
Can someone had this experience tell me where can I fine the correct wire?
Is that I should jump wire that came from amp.?

Below is my ULF connector,





 

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I literally just had the same issue on my 10/99 build M5. What solved my problem is jumping pins 11 and 14 from the connector that attached to the eject box under the console.

From what I gathered, there was not a signal to let the radio know that you were actually in a call. I just took a short wire, connected the two together, and tested it to make sure. Hopefully that solves your problem. Let me know if you need clearer instructions.


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Discussion Starter #3
I literally just had the same issue on my 10/99 build M5. What solved my problem is jumping pins 11 and 14 from the connector that attached to the eject box under the console.

From what I gathered, there was not a signal to let the radio know that you were actually in a call. I just took a short wire, connected the two together, and tested it to make sure. Hopefully that solves your problem. Let me know if you need clearer instructions.


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Where is the jumper pins 11 and 12 locate?
May I have clear instructions.

Thank you very much for your reply.
 

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Where is the jumper pins 11 and 12 locate?
May I have clear instructions.

Thank you very much for your reply.

You will need to jump pins 11 and 14 on the plug that attaches to your ejector box in the center console. If you have not done so already, you will need to take apart the center console a bit in order to access the plug. I had to remove about 8 screws total (2 on either side of the console that can be accessed by moving the front seats nearly all the way forward, 4 under the rear vents in the console). 2 of the screws actually hold the ejector box in place. You can pull that up a bit, trace the wire harness, and hopefully find the plug. If you look directly at the pins, you'll see very small numbers that correspond to the PIN numbers I was referring to. Hopefully that helps you out a bit.

I tried to take a few pics of my plug to give you a reference of where yours should be. Also, bimmernav.com has some info as well. Scroll down the page to find a section called "Audio Issues". They also have videos that direct you through what I wrote above. Let me know if it helps.

http://www.bimmernav.com/BMW_Bluetooth_Troubleshooting.html

ImageUploadedByAG Free1394068478.115913.jpg

ImageUploadedByAG Free1394068508.627890.jpg


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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #9

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No, telephone signal comes from the DSP unit (green white striped and brown white striped in the small connector). Same as for audio (black, brown and black white striped)
But I really hate it when people starts cutting in a wiring harness. Had it a couple of weeks ago with a friend of mine. They really ruined everything.

Back on topic:

I assume you have the 54 pins wired ? What was the original unit ? The 26 pin connector ? If so you need to wire the green/white separate and the iBus (white gray stripped with yellow rings) in the white connector. The other wires are in the 26 pin connector.

You can get the WDS here:
WDS BMW Wiring Diagram System - Model Selection
 

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Marcel is giving you the right info. Here is another way to put it:

Procedure:

1. Wait for Nav to spin down.
2. Unplug battery.
3. Remove navigation unit.
4. Remove navigation bracket.

5. Locate the 25-pin DSUB connector (looks like a SCSI printer port - old school).
6. Remove the outer casing of the connector - unscrew 4 tiny screws. I did this so I could see the pin numbers and the wire colors.
7. Take the newly purchased 54-in connector (84120308375). Remove its outer casing as well. Two tabs to push out. Again, I did this to see the wiring pins and colors.

Basically, this is the purpose of the the 54-pin to 25-pin connector: the ULF module needs to connect to the car. The connector translates the ULF's pins to the 25 pin connector's pins. This should be the pin out diagram:

25 Pin 54 Pin

Pin 3------------------------Pin 36 (Ground)
Pin 4------------------------Pin 17
Pin 5------------------------Pin 35
Pin 10-----------------------Pin 51 (mute)
Pin 11-----------------------Pin 32
Pin 14-----------------------Pin 19 (mic)
Pin 15-----------------------Pin 1 (mic)
Pin 19-----------------------Pin 37 (speaker)
Pin 20-----------------------Pin 21
Pin 22-----------------------Pin 15 (ibus)**
Pin 25-----------------------Pin 38 (speaker)
Pin 21-----------------------Pin 33 (tele on)**

I've ** starred the two issues I ran into.

Problem 1: For MY 99 cars wired for either CPT 7000/8000, there is no wire to pin 22 on the 25 pin connector (the one that looks like an old printer port). So, the I-bus cannot recognize there is even a ULF module on board.

Solution1: Properly wire in the "Phase V" harness. This is supposed to provide the i-bus wire for pin 22. I did not do this.
Solution 2. Locate an i-bus wire. They are all the same. White, grey stripe, with yellow hashes. Place a wire tap on that wire. Run some wire. Look for the wire that goes into pin 15 on the 54 pin connector. Tap the other end of the wire into the wire from pin 15.

At this point, if you reassembled everything and plugged everything in, you would see "telephone" as an option on the NAV screen. But, don't do this yet because you will run into another problem......no speaker volume.

Problem 2: For MY 99 cars, without an eject box, there is no way for the car to know the ULF is on and therefore tell the radio to put telephone signal to the speaker. As a solution, various sites recommend jumping pins 11 and 14 in the ELO 18 pin connector that is supposed to be under the center console somewhere. This thing is like a giant mystery.

I could not find the ELO 18 pin connector in the center console in my car. I spent an hour stripping the center console down and patting the rug before I decide it was an unnecessary waist of time. I came up with this solution.

First, see the attached wiring diagram for CPT 8000 phones. This was extremely beneficial, once I found it.

Solution: As you can see from the wiring diagram, the only thing the ELO 18 pin connector does is route wires to the center for the eject box. So, locate the tele on wire on the 54 pin harness. It should be in pin 33 (it was a grey wire with a red stripe on mine). Tap into it. Run some wire. Now, locate the x400 harness (it should be white and in the same area as the 25 pin connector that looks like an old school printer part). All the x400 does is route telephone wires to the car's main harness. Based on the CPT 8000 diagram, pin 11 on the x400 harness is the "tele on" signal (it was white with green stripe for me). Tap into it, and connect it with the wire from pin 33 on the 54 pin connector. Voila.

4. Secure all wire taps with electrical tape. Tape wire into exiting harnesses.
5. Take the ULF module and install it on the new bracket. It goes on the top.
6. Before installing the bracket, reassemble the 54 pin connector and plug it into the ULF module.
7. Plug in the Bluetooth antenna to the ULF module (cream side of connector).
8. Intall the new bracket.
9. Reassemble the car's 25 pin plug.
10. Plug in the 25 pin connector from the 54 pin harness into the car's existing 25 pin connector.
11. Plug the other end of the bluetooth cable (black side) into the bluetooth antenna.
12. Mount the bluetooth antenna in a secure location. (I mounted it in the trunk, right behind the rear seat).
13. Check all connections, screws, etc.
14. Plug in the battery.

If you turn the ignition now, is should say "activate phone." There are two ways you can pair a phone without using the ELO 18 pin connector that is mysteriously no where to be found. I used NavCoder. You could also bridge the TXD pairing wire (pin 32 on the 54 pin connector) with a ground wire.

Test it all out.

It really is not that bad of a system. Extremely functional and hands-free. But, it's not just plug and play for a 99/00 M5, as other MY cars might be.
 

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Hi All,

I did not want to create a new thread so I am bumping this one. I have installed a TCU and the antenna/mic for bluetooth in my new-to-me '03 M5. I can pair my phone, search through the address book on the nav, and start a call. However, I have similar symptoms of no audio in or out. Looking at the new-gen radio connector in the trunk, I am missing wires to pins 6 + 12 on the smaller black connector on the BM53 (per WDS, these are the TEL inputs). Can someone with a late model (09/2002+) M5 send me a pic of the wires gong into their connector?

I did this same retrofit with my '03 540 and it worked without issue

Much Appreciated!!
 

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Hi All,

Looking into WDS further and the car, the audio out from the TCU is going directly into the DSP amplifier. So now I assume it's a coding issue. I used a ZCS from a '01 X5 with DSP and was able to code the TCU with NCS Expert with the default settings. The "DSP_PROFILE" setting changed from "1" to "2", yet I still have no audio. My assumption is the the ZCS needs to factor in that the car has a BM53 rather than MID. Unfortunately I cannot change this as no '01 X5s (only year w/ ZCS) supported the option My 540 likely worked because the module came right from an x5 with NAV and DSP, so i need to figure out which DSP profile that was using. Too bad I already sold the car. My next step will be to try to match a later X5 using the VO system and coding defaults. In the meantime, would anyone have an NCS trace extract of their working TCU?


Thank you!
 

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So just to add some closure on this, I bought another TCU from an ‘06 X5 and it worked perfectly even without proper coding. I guess all along the previous one was faulty. As an added bonus the voice control works!
 
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