[mubarak]

Hi all
I got this code today and only this code nothing with it ( Exhaust camshaft VANOS Position control, Cly #5-8),, I cleared the code and it come back with two weeks.
Help here what should I change or is it the Vanos has to be replace ,, exhaust sound different and load,, I need some help here.

Thank you.

 

[Rontgen]

Exhaust camshaft position sensor (CPS), most likely. I have the same code on mine and plan on replacing both Exhaust CPS. My theory is - if one sensor is bad, the other is probably not far behind it.

I have a studdering, jerky throttle engagement at lower RPMs, which seems to be the primary symptom when these sensors start to go out. From my research here, it seems as though you'll start to see symptoms before the problem becomes severe enough to trip the SES light.

Good Luck!

 

[mubarak]

Same I have hard time engaing the car from first gear it boggs and when it reached 1200 rpm it just jump,, so you think it is not a Vanos problems.

 

[Rontgen]

I'm a newb to the e39, but generally speaking, I'd follow what the codes are telling you. That code is basically telling you that the signal input from the drivers side CPS is incorrect/implausible/corrupt in some way. As a result, the VANOS system has no way of accurately knowing where the exhaust camshaft is.

You may have an underlying VANOS problem, but I wouldn't jump to that conclusion just yet.

 

[gzig5]

Vanos solenoid on bank two is not behaving. The change in exhaust note is a dead giveaway. The code indicates exhaust so it would be one of the two solenoids on the exhaust side of the head. Go look through the several threads in the Vanos section of the DIY sticky. Could be one of several potential causes on the board, broken solder, contaminated or debris jammed, broken trace, etc the majority of which are all fixable by someone handy. You already have a 50-50 chance of picking the correct one to repair so just go through and service all four.

 

[Rontgen]

Whoops. Sorry to mislead you OP. My code must read slightly different than yours. I was going from memory and I guess I just proved how reliable my memory is. Lol

 

[Sailor24]

Whoops. Sorry to mislead you OP. My code must read slightly different than yours. I was going from memory and I guess I just proved how reliable my memory is. Lol

You did not. You always get the position control code with a CPS code. Change the CPS first. That is not to say you won't have vanos problems or codes after a CPS that is working is inplace.
You don't get a CPS code unless the CPS is well fried.
That said once I replaced all my CPS I got a bunch of vanos codes because the DME could actually tell what was going on with accurate readings.

 

[gzig5]

I guess I always got he position control code with no CPS codes and swapping or replacing CPS didn't make a difference. In those cases it was always a problem on the solenoid board. The one time I had a CPS code, it was the senor and they were replaced at that time. I agree that you can get a position control code without the sensor code and still have a sketchy sensor, but that has not been my experience. If you don't want to throw money at parts right away, you can swap the exhaust CPS between the two banks, clear the code and see where it comes up again. Or you could swap the vanos boards between the two banks, and in this case if it is a bad solenoid it should come up as an intake fault on the opposite bank. There is something to be said for having all new CPS sensors on a high mileage car but I try to identify the problem before throwing parts at it.

 

[Sailor24]

Sorry I was only talking to the one I quoted, not really to the OP. It is rare but sometimes I try to be nice to people. The OP post I don't have an opinion on because just the position control makes you right half the time. What your above post says makes perfect sense switch the boards side to side. I think both of us have said the same thing maybe a couple hundred times when answering question on position control only.