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Discussion Starter #1
I have purchased a 2000 E39 with a lunched engine. A 'local' shop (it's really about 110 miles away) is putting in an engine from a 2002 E39 that was rear-ended and I should pick the car on Monday. I don't know much other than the donor engine has around 75K on it and it's from a 2002.

I did have some things replaced on it when the shop put the engine in but not much more than a new clutch and a rear main seal. It doesn't appear to have any valve cover weeping or other leaks. The installers didn't really clean it up before installing it so I'm a little more confident that it's not the proverbial pig in a poke.

So far I know it doesn't have the gawsh-awful VANOS noise that my son's M5 has. I have been able to get in the vehicle and start it up but couldn't take it out for a drive thanks to the state of North Carolina's 'import' procedures to get it tagged here. I was on the fence about the installed Dinan exhaust until I started it up....lovelove

My question: what should I know about servicing/maintaining a 2002 engine vs. the original 2000 that was in it? I know the VANOS should be the updated flavor but that's about it. Are there any really serious gotchas (or advantages) to having the 2002 vs. the original 2000 engine?
 

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Other than the early 2000 engine ring design, there is really no difference. Anecdotally, people think the latest engines came from the factory with closer tolerances. There is some evidence that the crate motors have more HP. I think rings and the VANOS accumulator are the only real difference between 2000 and 2002.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How much are you paying for engine swap?
Eight grand plus some parts (clutch) that I specified that were best done as long as we had the engine out. That price includes the engine. I think the parts were another $1,700 or so. My only regret is not having enough money to get a better (non-OEM) clutch. I'm also getting it detailed and hopefully it'll pass the state inspection (another $250 or so for those items).

I have tried not to think to hard about the financial end of this. It's still far cheaper than the new car I was looking at.

FWIW, I didn't have a lot of say in the negotiations with the shop doing the work. A lot of the early part of this deal was done by proxy and I paid my son and some of his friends to get the vehicle from Boston. So far I'm happy with the way things have worked out. I have a high-bandwidth job that doesn't permit me to just drop out and take care of things like this and it's the price of doing business...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Other than the early 2000 engine ring design, there is really no difference. Anecdotally, people think the latest engines came from the factory with closer tolerances. There is some evidence that the crate motors have more HP. I think rings and the VANOS accumulator are the only real difference between 2000 and 2002.
This is consistent with the really thin research I did before green-lighting the swap. Honestly, I was really happy to get an engine that was past the VANOS issues. I had that work as a potential line item in my early E39 searches...
 

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Glad to see another NC beast. I bought mine in Winston in 2009. I didn't have any trouble registering it, other than the $600+ fee :eek:

What shop is doing the swap?
 

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If you paid $1,700 for the clutch + Rear Main seal then you could have ponied up another $500 and gotten a MUCH better clutch. Did you get a new flywheel and pressure plate too?
 

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You should spend the money and do timing chain and guides and the rod bearings, if you do those, your car will be pretty much invincible.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Glad to see another NC beast. I bought mine in Winston in 2009. I didn't have any trouble registering it, other than the $600+ fee :eek:

What shop is doing the swap?
Import Motor Werks (formerly mpowered) in Cary. They've been nice enough to deal with so far although they don't fish at the shallow end of the pool. But I wanted someone with specific M5 experience who wasn't my local dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you paid $1,700 for the clutch + Rear Main seal then you could have ponied up another $500 and gotten a MUCH better clutch. Did you get a new flywheel and pressure plate too?
Yes, it includes the flywheel and pressure plate. Here's the short list of parts:

11 14 1 436 109 Crankshaft Seal Kit 1.0 Quan
32 42 1 406 769 P/S Pump Pulley 1.0 Quan
21 21 7 515 146 Clutch Kit 1.0 Quan
07 11 9 906 045 Pressure Plate Bolt 6.0 Quan
18 30 1 728 734 Exhaust Seal Ring 4.0 Quan
21 21 2 229 190 Flywheel w/ Bolts 1.0 Quan

The tab also included getting a new front bumper painted and installed plus what amounts to a full fluid change (including the 'unicorn tears' oil).
 

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Yes, it includes the flywheel and pressure plate. Here's the short list of parts:

11 14 1 436 109 Crankshaft Seal Kit 1.0 Quan
32 42 1 406 769 P/S Pump Pulley 1.0 Quan
21 21 7 515 146 Clutch Kit 1.0 Quan
07 11 9 906 045 Pressure Plate Bolt 6.0 Quan
18 30 1 728 734 Exhaust Seal Ring 4.0 Quan
21 21 2 229 190 Flywheel w/ Bolts 1.0 Quan

The tab also included getting a new front bumper painted and installed plus what amounts to a full fluid change (including the 'unicorn tears' oil).
well then $1700 for all that isn't bad.

Haha...Unicorn Tears oil. I gotta use that :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you paid $1,700 for the clutch + Rear Main seal then you could have ponied up another $500 and gotten a MUCH better clutch. Did you get a new flywheel and pressure plate too?
I really, really wanted the TMS clutch but the 2K for that was just too much 'money soak' into the project for now. The engine has 74K on it so at some point down the road I expect to do a proper job. My 'want list' is already past $10K... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You should spend the money and do timing chain and guides and the rod bearings, if you do those, your car will be pretty much invincible.
I discussed this with the shop once they had the engine. These were on the list of possible things to do. But once they had the engine and did an inspection they felt that the current engine was just fine. And I have been able to get in the car, start it up and do a good walkaround while the engine was running. I didn't hear anything that sounded wrong although I will admit to a bit of impatience to get it on the road. It actually runs more quietly than my son's M5 which was very well maintained (except for the VANOS rattle).

The rod bearings would have put the bill far in excess of what I had budgeted. If I do any track time I'm expecting stuff like this to come up eventually. But for now I'm looking at future mods like a better cooling system (ask me how I know about that).

Naturally, I'm over budget already and my wife has me on 'M5 probation' at this point after I was able to finalize the costs. We had some unexpected line items such as the trailer ramp that was stolen from the vehicle trailer on its way down from Boston. Someone on the Massachusetts Turnpike now has one custom trailer ramp and I'm out $130. The trailer was borrowed so I at least didn't have to pay a rental fee.
 

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Import Motor Werks (formerly mpowered) in Cary. They've been nice enough to deal with so far although they don't fish at the shallow end of the pool. But I wanted someone with specific M5 experience who wasn't my local dealer.
I've heard good things about them. There aren't really any options in Winston either..
 

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Why would the rod bearings been far too expensive?

It is 500$ parts and about 3 hours work on an engine that is outside the car....
 

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I discussed this with the shop once they had the engine. These were on the list of possible things to do. But once they had the engine and did an inspection they felt that the current engine was just fine. And I have been able to get in the car, start it up and do a good walkaround while the engine was running. I didn't hear anything that sounded wrong although I will admit to a bit of impatience to get it on the road. It actually runs more quietly than my son's M5 which was very well maintained (except for the VANOS rattle).

The rod bearings would have put the bill far in excess of what I had budgeted. If I do any track time I'm expecting stuff like this to come up eventually. But for now I'm looking at future mods like a better cooling system (ask me how I know about that).

Naturally, I'm over budget already and my wife has me on 'M5 probation' at this point after I was able to finalize the costs. We had some unexpected line items such as the trailer ramp that was stolen from the vehicle trailer on its way down from Boston. Someone on the Massachusetts Turnpike now has one custom trailer ramp and I'm out $130. The trailer was borrowed so I at least didn't have to pay a rental fee.
Ramp was swiped on the NJ turnpike, we didn't stop on the Masspike. I now know better, we'll refuel before hitting NJ next time :p Looking forward to driving the new M5!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've heard good things about them. There aren't really any options in Winston either..
No. Definitely not. There used to be a decent enough import shop downtown. They actually found a new steering rack for a 1974 Jaguar XJ12 for about 1/3 of the cost from Jaguar. But the location is a parking lot now...:dunno:

The dealer is like any other. Pricey. I didn't get the impression they had much experience with M5s. I brought my son's in for a quick inspection there for an issue where we knew what was wrong. Let's just say that I wouldn't take my car there unless I had independent verification of the issue and no other choice. I think they mostly cater to their stable of 7 series owners and everything else just pays for the utilities.

I just got off the phone with Import Werks. They're experienced enough to drive my unplated M5 through Cary. Given the current revenue needs of our state, I fully expect to get pulled over at some point until I can formally get the plates from the DMV next Wednesday.

After that, I'm going on a shakedown run to Roanoke up 220. My son is getting the lunched engine that was in the car and we're going to do a post-mortem teardown.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Why would the rod bearings been far too expensive?

It is 500$ parts and about 3 hours work on an engine that is outside the car....
True enough. But I'm trying to do this on a cash basis and the cash just ran out.

Blame the U.S. healthcare system. I spent 36 hours in the hospital on New Year's Eve and just got that bill...:eek:oohhh: $9,600 for 12 hours in the ER and a day in gen pop.
 

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Be curious on the failed engine if the problem was thrown rod or a broken piston?

There have been a few M5's here lately that have had problems that appear to be other than a thrown rod, looks like maybe a piston skirt broke and the piston cocked in the cylinder and broke out the top of the block near the valley under the plenum??

Did you recently purchase the car with a blown engine? If so, which one, the one from Boston?
 

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Be curious on the failed engine if the problem was thrown rod or a broken piston?

There have been a few M5's here lately that have had problems that appear to be other than a thrown rod, looks like maybe a piston skirt broke and the piston cocked in the cylinder and broke out the top of the block near the valley under the plenum??

Did you recently purchase the car with a blown engine? If so, which one, the one from Boston?
It was the one in Boston, I'm his son and went with 2 friends to go pick it up. I was debating buying it for spare parts for my car (also an '00 in TiAg), but he decided to buy it and get the engine swap done.

The damage is as you describe, broken block in the valley near the back, does not appear to have thrown a rod. I'll definitely post pictures of the teardown when I do it.
 
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