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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Car hasnt been driven for about 4 weeks. Just replaced plugs, distrubutor and rotor. That battery was flat the day before so I charged it up and it started without any issues.

Took it for a drive and it ran much much better than previously (thats the reason I havent driven it, I was ordering parts).

It does however "die" when I de-accelerate. It did this on 3 or 4 occassions.

Thoughs?
 

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Car hasnt been driven for about 4 weeks. Just replaced plugs, distrubutor and rotor. That battery was flat the day before so I charged it up and it started without any issues.

Took it for a drive and it ran much much better than previously (thats the reason I havent driven it, I was ordering parts).

It does however "die" when I de-accelerate. It did this on 3 or 4 occassions.

Thoughs?
Vacuum leak?
 

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I guess same stuff that I just replaced - the pipes under the plenum - gets hot down there and the rubber can perrish. Also quite cheap if you just get some hose and fittings from somewhere other than bmw cost me £5 and took about 90 mins i think
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Removed intake, checked all vacuum hoses (they appear ok) and also removed ICV and gave it a good clean out (it wasn't that dirty actually) and took it for a drive. No change. When I come to a corner and go to change down a gear, if I don't give a squirt on the accelerator, it will stall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mate (non-BMW Mechanic) was just over and when I told him everything, he was thinking the Battery (it had previously run flat whilst the car was not being driven and has been re-charged) could be the culprit. Being a sealed battery they don't respond to re-charging like others apparently, or at least a re-charged a different way to normal batteries. It may have enough to crank the car over but the ECU may not be getting everything it needs.I was going to be getting a new battery anyways, but what are peoples thoughts on this?

Could it be a battery?
 

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Hi !

My thoughts are that if the battery has enough power to crank the engine....kick starter is one of, if not the greatest consumer of power, though momentarily....then it would most certainly provide enough power to the ECU to run the car.....especially with a functional alternator.

How's your idle control valve ?

Cheers

Erik
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I took the ICV out and gave it a good clean.

I took it for an hour long drive this morning and it still does it.

At 100kph if iI come off the accelerator and push in the clutch it cuts out. If I rill to a stop and just before the car would stall in gear, if I depress the clutch it struggles a bit but does not cut out before idling fairly well. Its a bit rough at idle now I notice though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Just disconnected the ICV and the car ran perfectly. No stalling nothing. Smooth idle. 100kph, off the accelerator and in with the clutch, car goes back to idle instead of cutting out. Car was already warmed up.

Plug in ICV and runs like crap. Same symptoms as previous.

Disconnect again and runs like crap still.

I am thinking something is up with the ICV somehow somewhere.

cheers for all the help people.
Dave
 

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Dave

Sorry to find this one a bit late - but my car was like that before the rebuild for the first couple of hundred k's after the battery was disconnected for any reason. I think the issue was clogged bypasses in the inlet manifolds. The car slowly adapts to the settings needed to get it idling.

Obviously, I did a good clean out and recon of the manifolds with the rebuild - no such problems now.

Ian
 
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