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Discussion Starter #41
Basically, the vanos gear has a spring that keeps one of the two cogs in it tensioned against the cog of the intake vanos gear...when the spring becomes weak the cogs arent tensioned against each other and you get that noise at idle(low rpm)

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Thank you for the info.
 

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Thank you for the info.
My advice will be...fix the issue...replace HP vanos line and rod bearings asap.
Once all healthy stay away from the forum...if you read here too much you will STOP enjoying your car...most of the people here are very negative about this car without ever owning one... You will be plagued with paranoia...

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I had 3 amazing trouble free years with my m5...do the maintenance(rod bearings is maintenance on this car) and enjoy

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Forgot to add..
Never rev it above 4k before reaching operating temp.... On startup wait 3 minutes before driving off..you dont need to reach operating temp at idle

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Frequency is much lower than mine so can't be AC. Plus theres a CEL so...

There's vanos rattle and then there's knock. This isn't rattling.

People have got running cars for less than 5k. This isn't running.

I stay away from troy.

I'd stay away from that car or be prepared to replace the engine.
 

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Frequency is much lower than mine so can't be AC. Plus theres a CEL so...

There's vanos rattle and then there's knock. This isn't rattling.

People have got running cars for less than 5k. This isn't running.

I stay away from troy.

I'd stay away from that car or be prepared to replace the engine.
Are you talking about the ticking noise behind the rattle?


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If you think it’s a ruptured VANOS HP line that’s one thing, that could be a loud knock. There is a video of that:
But for your own financial sake, don’t touch this car without a PPI. Check the oil filter like dec said and get a VANOS pressure test done before you consider buying.

I contest the notion that you should stay away from this forum. We are not all people who “hate the car without ever having owned one”. Contrarily, we are here BECAUSE we own and love our E60 M5’s. Mine has over 180k miles and I enjoy it almost everyday. But that doesn’t mean we can’t be realistic about its shortcomings every once in a while.
 

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If you think it’s a ruptured VANOS HP line that’s one thing, that could be a loud knock. There is a video of that:
But for your own financial sake, don’t touch this car without a PPI. Check the oil filter like dec said and get a VANOS pressure test done.

I contest the notion that you should stay away from this forum. We are not all people who “hate the car without ever having owned one”. Contrarily, we are here BECAUSE we own and love our E60 M5’s. Mine has over 180k miles and I enjoy it almost everyday. But that doesn’t mean we can’t be realistic about its shortcomings every once in a while.
Mate....there are some awesome chaps here...but the level of negativity its amazing when it comes to e60 m5... People should know that if you consider rod bearings, hp vanos line and possible smg pump maintenance you will have a happy marriage with the car...

My advice to him is to replace the bearings, check the pumps while in there and replace the HP line....then..he should read every single horror story on the forum:)

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Mate....there are some awesome chaps here...but the level of negativity its amazing when it comes to e60 m5... People should know that if you consider rod bearings, hp vanos line and possible smg pump maintenance you will have a happy marriage with the car...

My advice to him is to replace the bearings, check the pumps while in there and replace the HP line....then..he should read every single horror story on the forum:)

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But first he needs to check the oil filter make sure the engine is not fried already..

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Discussion Starter #50
If the bearings are bad wouldnt i just need to replace the bearings and check the crank? If the crank is damaged i would just need to get it repaired. What do you guys mean by the motor is toast?

i knew when i messaged the guy that the car would need work and im ok doing it. If i get it for the right price even if i have to buy a motor i can still be in the green zone with it. Im just looking for advice from you guys since you have worked on these cars. I appreciate it alot that you guys are taking the time to answer my questions. I owned an eclipse back in the day that had rod knock and it was not nearly that loud at idle and got louder as i reved the engine that is what confused me about this noise.
 

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If the bearings are bad wouldnt i just need to replace the bearings and check the crank? If the crank is damaged i would just need to get it repaired. What do you guys mean by the motor is toast?

i knew when i messaged the guy that the car would need work and im ok doing it. If i get it for the right price even if i have to buy a motor i can still be in the green zone with it. Im just looking for advice from you guys since you have worked on these cars. I appreciate it alot that you guys are taking the time to answer my questions. I owned an eclipse back in the day that had rod knock and it was not nearly that loud at idle and got louder as i reved the engine that is what confused me about this noise.
You first need to determine what the sound is. That knock, with VANOS codes, doesn’t bode well but again, could be a ruptured HP line I suppose. The reason most people elect to replace the engine is that repairing spun bearing damage is cost prohibitive for them. If you DIY then it can be done, but you need to know what you’re getting into. Read through one of the engine rebuild threads on here to get an idea if it’s something you’re open to.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
You first need to determine what the sound is. That knock, with VANOS codes, doesn’t bode well but again, could be a ruptured HP line I suppose. The reason most people elect to replace the engine is that repairing spun bearing damage is cost prohibitive for them. If you DIY then it can be done, but you need to know what you’re getting into. Read through one of the engine rebuild threads on here to get an idea if it’s something you’re open to.
There is a company near me called Lang Racing that does repair the crank, if the crank is damaged i would have them repair it. I plan to do all the work on the motor with the help of a few friends. I may ahve to take another trip down with a code reader to pull the codes.
 

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There is a company near me called Lang Racing that does repair the crank, if the crank is damaged i would have them repair it. I plan to do all the work on the motor with the help of a few friends. I may ahve to take another trip down with a code reader to pull the codes.
Mate...before buying it...remove the oil filter...if you see shavings factor the cost of an engine in...if you dont see any shavings i am sure you wont need to replace the engine....

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Yeah man you need to do more than pull the codes. Pull and cut open the oil filter, along with doing a vanos pressure test at the very least if you aren't going to have a shop look at it.
 

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4.5k is right for a car like this, I assume it’s got a clean title. Any more below that it quickly becomes a no deal since there are easily a few things that the owner could part out and get 4k or more for, but the issue is that the car sits and takes up space. Any more than 6.5k is no deal IMO as a buyer, especially for a pre LCI. And I’m assuming it’s not rod knock, that it’s something else. Because it’s easy to spend another 5k in parts only and an pre LCI that merely runs without major engine issues is hardly worth 12k, You’d have to dump in more money to get it up to the condition of a decent 07 that is in the mid teens.
 

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4.5k is right for a car like this, I assume it’s got a clean title. Any more below that it quickly becomes a no deal since there are easily a few things that the owner could part out and get 4k or more for, but the issue is that the car sits and takes up space. Any more than 6.5k is no deal IMO as a buyer, especially for a pre LCI. And I’m assuming it’s not rod knock, that it’s something else. Because it’s easy to spend another 5k in parts only and an pre LCI that merely runs without major engine issues is hardly worth 12k, You’d have to dump in more money to get it up to the condition of a decent 07 that is in the mid teens.
Yes. This is the problem. A pre-lci with key maintenance items addressed and in good running order seems to be a $15k car. a car like this (even if the engine is ok) could swallow up $5k in parts just on a few fairly minor things. That puts you at $10k plus labor (fine if you diy but it’s still time which has value). At that point if everything else is good you’ve had a win. If you then find there is a serious engine issue or it needs a clutch or smg pump or whatever you’re now going to end up at the same money you could have bought a running car for. I don’t think it’s a horrible deal but you definitely need to do a little more investigation. The fact that something went wrong and the owner chose to not fix it and just let it sit could be a sign that they didn’t have the money or inclination to address other things on the car too. So it may have some other issues he didn’t deal with.
 

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4.5k is right for a car like this, I assume it’s got a clean title. Any more below that it quickly becomes a no deal since there are easily a few things that the owner could part out and get 4k or more for, but the issue is that the car sits and takes up space. Any more than 6.5k is no deal IMO as a buyer, especially for a pre LCI. And I’m assuming it’s not rod knock, that it’s something else. Because it’s easy to spend another 5k in parts only and an pre LCI that merely runs without major engine issues is hardly worth 12k, You’d have to dump in more money to get it up to the condition of a decent 07 that is in the mid teens.
2nd the 4.5k range on the price. You have to relay the message of cost of labor/parts when you're diving into something that the owner and you don't know what you're jumping into. I'm all for rolling the dice but any terrible noises unlike @flacoramos situation which was a go sent after reading that thread would lead you right into a serious repair costing thousands of dollars. I am in no way saying not to buy it. Check out my thread on the car I bought if you want some risk in your life. But as stated above I pulled codes. Drained the oil, checked the filter and called every single service shop the car went to in its life and requested records of any repair in there files.

Main point.. if that person isn't willing to deal lower with a known issue causing him not to drive it for 2 years!.. walk away, mainly because at that point the owner is not worried about how your situation comes out of it only the paycheck at the end of it. I was able to talk my purchase down from $5700 to $3200 in a similar situation once the owner realized the risk I was taking. I love working on cars but hate wasting money isn't that funny?

Bottom line: Weigh out your risk for reward compared to price, what potentially the car could need done in all scenarios and then compare it with a car that runs right with comparable service records for mileage.. If this doesn't end up being the one.. look for an 08-10.
 
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