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I was driving my 2006 M6 the other day. I shut it off for an hour and then went to leave again, when I started it this time i got all these faults. Engine malf, reduced power, DSC, DBC, and start-off assistance inactive. When I let the car sit over night its fine in the morning, but once i shut it off and turn back on shortly these faults pop. I brought it to the BMW dealer to get the codes ran. They gave me a 2 page list of "possible" sources for the problem. I read about the steering wheel angle sensor so i took apart my steering wheel and cleaned of the inner ring. Also left the battery disconnected over night. The car was fine for 3-4 days, even when urned off then on. Checked the battery and its fully charged but just in case i got a new one but did not change anything. Not sure what it might maybe steering angel sensor or throttle actuators be any ideas? Is there anyway to be 100% sure what the problem is? The dealer gave me multiple codes but I dont know which it could be.
 

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I’m having the same problem, all symptoms above, on my '06 E63 M6. Alternator is 2yrs old, with about 7,000miles on it, just recently put on a new voltage regulator, and reluctantly purchased a OEM battery (yes, the battery is fully charged) and registered it At the local dealer.
I am only getting about 13.9-14.1V during normal driving.
Then the Voltage momentarily drops to 12.1V and all the symptoms appear, and goes into limp mode, 2500RPM Max, and 65mph.
I am going in for a BE Rod Bearing swap this week at 93,300miles, and will probably have them swap out the alternator again. My Indy shop: Bavarian Workshop-West Hills, CA.

Any Tech's or anyone... please chime in, if you’ve experienced this before. Many Thanks in advance.

Best Regards Always.. N

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Discussion Starter #3
I’m having the same problem, all symptoms above, on my '06 E63 M6. Alternator is 2yrs old, with about 7,000miles on it, just recently put on a new voltage regulator, and reluctantly purchased a OEM battery (yes, the battery is fully charged) and registered it At the local dealer.
I am only getting about 13.9-14.1V during normal driving.
Then the Voltage momentarily drops to 12.1V and all the symptoms appear, and goes into limp mode, 2500RPM Max, and 65mph.
I am going in for a BE Rod Bearing swap this week at 93,300miles, and will probably have them swap out the alternator again. My Indy shop: Bavarian Workshop-West Hills, CA.

Any Tech's or anyone... please chime in, if you’ve experienced this before. Many Thanks in advance.

Best Regards Always.. N

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I am curious if its the same for you. The faults only happen after the first drive of the day and I go to start it within a couple hours of shutting it off. I disconnected the battery over night and it was running perfect for 3 days until the faults showed up again.
 

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Totally agree Sr.Flacoramos. It's in the process. My Indy said he's seen it before, and it could be any of the many controller's that possibly could be throwing a short. They'll remedy it shortly, before the bearing swap. I'll give them a week or so, and report back to share.
Thanks.. N
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So i got myself a code reader now I can clear the check engine light but cant get into the ABS system. Called the tool company they said 99% of the time its an ABS fuse. I got the diagrams but know where can i find that fuse, any ideas?
 

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The exact same thing just happened to me today with the exact same errors. Usually it happens frequently during the summer after some spirited driving with the engine running warmer than normal. After sitting over night it drives just fine but the CEL is on for a day or two. I never had the issue during the winter but since I was driving all day today and in the throttle, it started up again despite the cooler weather. Anyway, I'll let you know what my mechanic comes up with and post it here.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Their website (scroll to the bottom) says it does NOT communicate with our cars ABS.

What do you recommend for an affordable scanner?
 

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Inpa/ista is the official bmw tool. All you need is the bimmergeeks pro cable. It is NOT user friendly. You need to know your way around a laptop.

There are some aftermarket solutions like carly etc but I'm not familiar with them. I know they are not as powerful as inpa/ista tho.
 

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My RodBearing BE replacement job is all done, and now will be tackling the very common electrical prob Today-stated earlier in the post.. Should have some answers tomorrow from my pro-Indy. Been back East, and heading home tonight, so I’m pretty excited to get the car back.
BTW I have iCarly for the simple stuff, nothing to complex on the coding, and easy to reset my service intervals.

Ciao.. N
 

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Picking up my car today!!! Will report back the findings. BE Bearing swapped, and electrical-previously stated “gremlins” repaired!

See you.. N
 
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