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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some advise..My Oil Temp pegged last week few mins. into drive after a cold start...and has done it ever since...no eng. lights or issues....so I oredered a new Oil Temp. Sensor.

Everything else was fine with the car and then a few days ago while on the freeway the car went into Limp Mode and then I got the Eng. Fail Safe reading on the OBD...I got the Peake reader last night and here are the results.

Table was 1b.

Codes were 8f, 2c,a3,6a,39,29,e7,62,9e.

Anyone with experience please chime in and tell me what I need to replace.

I bought new oil temp sensor and two new pre cat O2 sensors. Just did an Oil Change week prior to the Oil Temp Sensor going out. I just replaced the MAF's two weeks ago.

Help please. The beast needs to get back up and running.

I cleared the codes and then started car ran the test again and just got the 8F code. (E box fan) so do I just replace it or try unplugging and replugging it back in?

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If you did get Ebox fan code both times, then fix the ebox issue. I think that this code is triggering other codes.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
thanks...I am picking up the E box fan today. I hope that is all it is...
 

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Most of the codes are old likely. The 62 is not likely, it is b2 more than likely since there is no 62, read the knowledgebase thread for more info on the peake. You are on the right direction with the temp sensor, the pegging of the needle is just like an idiot light to catch the drivers attention. Bad news is it usually only pegs when you have a bad t-stat too. Do the sensor first then read some threads on how the car should warm up to figure out if your t-stat is good or bad.

Definitely take care of you e8, replace the fan and the car will be much better, it is possible between a bad temp reading in the DME and the bad oil temp the DME decided to peg the needle.
The failsafe puzzles me though, again if the DME had no way of knowing the correct temp and both were reading hot then it may have said ****e danger.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
water temp was normal...only temp that shot up was the Oil...put in the new E fan....cleared the codes....started it and it seams ok...no codes....need to drive it this evening and see what happens...thanks,,,
 

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How hot was it (ambient temp) when the failsafe happened? Like I said in the other thread, the three DME-related codes may be because the DME overheated.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well everything seamed good and them I went out to drive it down the road a bit and the eng fail safe came back on. Outside temp is 90*. Oil temp was 207*. Still pegged on dial at 310. Water temp was in the middle and reading 86*.

Codes are 2c, e7,51,86. I can't figure it out. Unless the oil temp sensor is causing it. Get a little rough idle some like it's needing fuel. I will swap out the new mafs with the old ones and see what happens
 

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Well everything seamed good and them I went out to drive it down the road a bit and the eng fail safe came back on. Outside temp is 90*. Oil temp was 207*. Still pegged on dial at 310. Water temp was in the middle and reading 86*.

Codes are 2c, e7,51,86. I can't figure it out. Unless the oil temp sensor is causing it. Get a little rough idle some like it's needing fuel. I will swap out the new mafs with the old ones and see what happens
Regarding the oil temp problem, it sounds like you are getting a normal, logical oil temp from the secret menu based on the 207C value you posted above, but the gauge is pegged high. If that's correct, it's starting to sound like a cluster problem. I say that because there is only one signal coming out of the oil level sensor to the DME. It does a calculation of oil temp and sends it to the cluster. The gauge doen't seem to be reflecting that temp. Also you are getting the 86 cluster error. Do the secret menu #2 cluster check. Does the oil temp gauge sweep OK?

Below is an extract from WDS for more info.

Regarding going into failsafe mode, I'm stumped. None of the codes you have explain it. Although I see from another recent thread the IKE (cluster) module is an important component of bus communication so if it was acting up, it may affect engine operation.

Oil temperature gauge
On the M-models, an oil temperature gauge is used in the instrument cluster instead of the fuel consumption indicator.
The oil temperature displayed in the instrument cluster comes via the CAN bus from the digital engine electronics to the instrument cluster. On the S62 engine, the oil temperature shown in the instrument cluster is displayed as a mean value of the oil temperature measured value of the oil level transmitter and the dual coolant temperature sensor (temperature engine exit).
Procedure in the event of a fault:
1. Check the instrument cluster
Run a self-test of the instrument cluster.
For the self-test of the instrument cluster, check whether the oil temperature gauge behaves correctly. If it does not, the instrument cluster must be replaced.
2. Check the thermal oil level transmitter
If the oil temperature gauge is defective with the additional Check Control message ”Check engine oil level”, proceed as follows:
•Check the power supply and earth connection for the oil level transmitter.
•Check the cable from the oil level transmitter to the DME control unit.
•If necessary, replace the oil level transmitter.
If the oil temperature gauge is defective without the additional Check Control message ”Check engine oil level”, proceed as follows:
•In the diagnostic program for the DME digital engine electronics, display the oil temperature (expert mode - diagnosis requests) and check whether the displayed temperature corresponds to the oil temperature in the engine.
•Check the cable from the oil level transmitter to the DME control unit.
•If necessary, replace the oil level transmitter.
3. Check the dual coolant temperature sensor
The dual coolant temperature sensor has two independent NTC sensors that determine the coolant temperature directly for the instrument cluster and for the digital engine electronics. The NTC sensor connected to the digital engine electronics is used to calculate the oil temperature.
•In the diagnostic program for the DME digital engine electronics, display the coolant temperature (expert mode - diagnosis requests) and check whether the displayed temperature corresponds to the coolant temperature in the engine.
•Check the cable from the DME control unit to the sensor.
•If necessary, replace the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The test #2 functions correctly , the oil temp gauge goes from left to right and back. As for the coolant temp. It seams fine. I will check the connection underneath the car . I did have the wheels refinished and new tires and alignment done a few days ago and the same day is when this happened. Maybe somehow they hit a wire.
 

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Do your steering wheel buttons work? How about the horn? Does your car get to full temp within 5 - 7 mins?

Just unplug the oil temp sensor for a bit then the DME will calculate a temp for it. Unless of coarse it does not believe your water temp. You may have a wiring problem to the oil sensor, so inspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the advice. I will check that this morning and let you know. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
UPDATE:

disconnected the battery, disconnected the Oil Temp Sensor and installed new Pre-Cat O2 Sensors....codes were clear except the Oil Temp Sensor...started the car, sounded strong...backed out of the driveway and it stalled...Engine Fail Safe message.

Codes were;

2c, 2d, 6b, e7, a3, 6a, 51, 86, 9e

now I'm leaning toward the throttle position sensors?...I just don't want to be replacing parts and guessing....what you guys think?
 

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It is pretty conclusive now. Either something is screwed in the DMEs ability to communicate or the DME is bad. The only minor thing that could be going bad is the power to the DME so before I headed off to the dealer for a DME diagnostic would be to open the ignition switch and have a look and maybe replace the main relay.

That 2d code is a part in the DME that amplifies power to run the throttle motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Well this morning I replaced the Oil Temp/level Sensor and cleared the codes...then took it down the street and it stalled again and I got the eng. fail safe message ....

Code is E7.."Control Unit Self-Test, Slave processor check"

guess i will get it towed to shop and have them check the DME,
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE: Let car sit overnight...then I disconnected the battery and pulled the fuses on the DME.(checked the 5- 30A fuses) all were good....put it all back and started up the car...running fine..checked codes...nothing.....WTF??? really could the this have reset the DME? and did the Oil Temp./Level sensor cause the issue with the DME...I will still go have the car checked ans make sure the DME and rest of the computer is working correctly....

Thanks for all the help.... "the BEAST is a ***** sometimes....like with every hot chick, she cost you money and you have to deal with her moods"
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nope, short lived,,, Eng. Fail Safe message.....codes, A3, E7, 51, 6a, 86, 9e ...looks like we are shop bound.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Car is fixed...it was the Crank Sensor...
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Im not sure myself. Only having the car 6 months and still learning about them. But that is what my Mechanic told me and fixed it. I never got a code for the crank sensor but I guess the system he has to diagnose is much better than a Peake reader.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
and now its not....still broke...looks like DME issue. STRESSED!
 
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