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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everybody!

This is the 2nd year that I'm dealing with this problem. If the weather is below 45° my car gives me all kids of problems when I started it.
In the morning, I'd unlock the car and I'm greeted with red car on lift icon. I start the car and 1st message is "electronic malfunction", ABS and engine check lights on dashboard, and Transmission malfunction. There's a relay clicking noise coming from the keyless entry control module. Once the car warms up all the messages and relay clicking goes away.
Battery was checked 2x and it's good, I replaced the alternator and the negative battery cables. That didn't help.
I scanned my car with the BMW Geeks Pro Tool and these are the codes that were found after I replaced the IBS negative battery cable.
945440
945441
945442
945443


Any ideas please, suggestions?
I really appreciate it.
My car is a 2010 MY SMG.
Thank you very much!
 

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Move to South Florida. Problem solved lol.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
That's what I did. Went to the beach yesterday balmy 86 degrees. Still nice for November. Unrelated to my BMW ownership though...
 

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Yes reset and see what comes up. It looks like a DSC/ABS problem for sure and maybe a steering angle sensor. The mismatch on the miles is odd. I think someone else posted about cold ABS problems. The DC motor that runs it would be effected by temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I cleared the codes and drove the car Tuesday.
This morning I started the car and I got a handful of codes.
 

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You need ISTA to diagnose this issue.
It will guide you to more detail.
it could be numbers of things.
just use ISTA


Thank you.
 

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All the fault sounds like a power interruption because it indicate a loss of can bus signal.
You didn't measure the battery voltage after the car sat overnight.
Start the car and delete the faults and scan right away without driving the car to compare.
Do this and report back.
Do you noticed any power interruption or flickering during driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
All the fault sounds like a power interruption because it indicate a loss of can bus signal.
You didn't measure the battery voltage after the car sat overnight.
Start the car and delete the faults and scan right away without driving the car to compare.
Do this and report back.
Do you noticed any power interruption or flickering during driving.
Last night I deleted all the faults that I posted here yesterday. Rescanned right after and nothing was found. Because this problem only manifest in the morning, if I delete the codes during the days they don't come back until the next cold morning, this morning was 37° F and I got the Christmas style dashboard. This is how it went down this morning:
  • I unlocked the car, the car made the unlock sound but the lock pin stayed down, I pressed unlock one more time and the pin come up.(I've seen this before)
  • Opened the hood and checked the voltage before starting the car and it was 12.05, 11.79
  • Started the car and it went from 11.77, 10.59, 12.26, 14.41, all the way to 15.03
  • Scanned the car with ProTool and only 1 module was read (ALBV_FA-Driver Active Backrest) - no errors found.
This is something I see in the morning, I can't get a full scan, it's like the modules are not awake and don't report.
* I scanned again and got 3 modules to report but none with errors. If I let the car run for several minutes I can get a full scan with all the codes(like I posted yesterday)
Yes, last year I noticed power interruptions while driving, the speedometer died for a few seconds and the idrive went off and back on. But I have not seen this happen since alternator and the negative IBS cable were replaced.
Here's another wired thing that happened(before the 2 items were replaced, haven't seen it since). Once when leaving work (around 3PM) I unlocked the car(made the unlock sound), I opened the door, I opened the trunk and closed it(don't remember why, doesn't matter) when I got in the car I tried to put he key in and it would not stay in. The car had no juice, it was like the car had no battery, 100% dead. After I few minutes it woke up and accepted the key and it started fine. The 2nd time this happen, I left in the morning, the car gave me a handful of dashboard lights an drove away without clearing the faults. The steering wheel was hard to steer so I pulled over to clear the codes. I turned the car off and when I pressed the start button the car went dead on me 100%. I had the car towed home and once I got home the car started no problem. My brother tried to give me a jump from his car while waiting for the tow but it would not go, it barely got any juice from his car.

Thank you helping me.
 

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Battery voltage of 12.05V is considered drained already to start with, when the voltage drops to 10.59V during engine starting is enough to cause some modules to be unhappy. I don't say your battery is bad at this point, you need in this case to know what was the battery voltage before the car set to sleep to see how much voltage has been drained during the sleep, if the voltage was normal of about 12,6V and in the morning you find it 12.05V this mean that there is a consumer or possibly bad control unit is draining your battery, if that is the case then you need to do a parasitic drain check, it shouldn't be more than about 40ma.

Note that the battery required long distance drive to be charged, if you doing short distance the battery will not be charged. If you doing long distance drive and the battery doesn't get charged then you have a bad battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Battery voltage of 12.05V is considered drained already to start with, when the voltage drops to 10.59V during engine starting is enough to cause some modules to be unhappy. I don't say your battery is bad at this point, you need in this case to know what was the battery voltage before the car set to sleep to see how much voltage has been drained during the sleep, if the voltage was normal of about 12,6V and in the morning you find it 12.05V this mean that there is a consumer or possibly bad control unit is draining your battery, if that is the case then you need to do a parasitic drain check, it shouldn't be more than about 40ma.

Note that the battery required long distance drive to be charged, if you doing short distance the battery will not be charged. If you doing long distance drive and the battery doesn't get charged then you have a bad battery.
I'm going to do a parasitic drain check and see what I can find.
Thank you
 

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I'd change the voltage regulator personally. They aren't very expensive (I keep spare in the car), just tricky to get out sometimes.
 

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I'd change the voltage regulator personally. They aren't very expensive (I keep spare in the car), just tricky to get out sometimes.
Yes. 15.03v is too high. But you also need to do the parasitic load analysis too since almost all E60s have this problem.
 
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