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Are you sure your car still has the EDC shocks? Many have been replaced with aftermarket when original shocks gave trouble. Do your shocks have electric cables connected to them? Does the suspension feel equally firm if you bounce front corners and rear corners?
 

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edc

I get the edc not active display on the dash

Car is a late 3.8 and still has all the edc components fitted. I had the front shocks replaced many years ago, no sign of any leaks
I just remembered that the dash switch was replaced about 18 months ago after which the edc worked for a short while then the not active display came up again. If the switch was dodgy would that bring not active up?

The car has been my wifes daily driver for 11 years! Has now done 175k, clutch replaced 2 months ago, if only dual mass ones lasted as long!
We now have a bm diesel estate as a daily, not sure what to do with the m5 now, getting a little worn now, but what a car it was. Considering having a bit of paintwork done and just storing it, not sure its worth much really?
The edc is quite a major issue to its value i would have thought

Ian
 

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Get it up and on a lift and have a look for yourself. Mine had accumulators replaced over it's service history, one accelerometer in the wheel well, and associated wiring looked over, but never the proportioning valve. When (during my last refurb) one accumulator went on the right side (taking out the right EDC shock) the proportioning valve went with it. My bet is that you should drop the exhaust and sub frame, pull all the rusty pipes out, get a pair of 'bombas' and a valve, and bend some new pipes in place, take a wire brush to the underside and get everything ship shape. Do all the rear bushes, dog bones, etc, and get the whole underside back to where you can really enjoy the car without the next issue taking it out of action. It's really bite the bullet time as it aint cheap.

I ordered new pipes, new accumulators, two new hi-pressure hoses, and the valve (and I think I got the last RR EDC that was available-hence the other long EDC thread from 2013) and today I am as good as new. I mean we have to completely restore the cars when they ask us to, or they become shadows of themselves, and then some kids will booger up the suspension and drive them into the ground. I recall needing a new drive shaft when I first got my M5T, and I just took it out and sent it to San Antonio to be completely rebuilt. At that time I dropped the rear sub frame, did those big bushings, had it all powder coated, did all the rear bushes, exhaust hangars, diff oil, etc.

Now that we have a shock refurb company in nagangast, I see no reason in not keeping up these cars in original nic. It's a strong reason to why we bought these cars to begin with. Face it, none of us paid the first $90k when these were new, so we really never 'paid in' for the whole car, so with that in mind, now that we have the income for these extra-ordinary cars, we should keep them right or find a suitable home for someone who will. At 53, I can do this. In your 20's you can only afford to cut corners sadly, unless you are a wrencher by trade.

I finally drove mine the other day and had to charge the battery to do so. Sad that I haven't paid that much 'in' to my M5T of late, but I can't part with it. I'm nowhere near $90k into the car, but I can bet you if I admitted to all the bills I've paid including purchase, shipping through the panama canal to Oakland where Barry's outfit made the car legal, all the euro bits and extras including two parts wagons I'm half way 'in' at least. From that point of view it's a steal. It's not these are alfa's where the original car cost $7500 back in '67, but it takes $30k to get them right. These are $90k precision German hand built pieces of art that can be maintained to near new spec for $3 or $4 thousand at a time.

Happy New Year and don't give up. I have to keep mine at least as long enough until my boys can drive and learn to drive a clutch (which is old school now even in true track cars sadly) In 2014, I bought the wife an sl for our 20th anniversary, and a new to us MDX the year before that, so I inherited her old one which I now use for my historic renovation business, and I don't even drive my 57 anymore. Both the 57 and the M5T are getting some more work done this year. The 57 is going to get the cab and boxes moved onto a single cab 4x4 dually frame with disc brakes and I will go back to using it every time I need a truck, and the M5T is going to get the interior totally sorted (my undercarriage is finally done will all suspension, brakes, steering renewed) and then a full respray, and I will ditch old MDX (which is extremely efficient and effective in all reality - but who wants to live in that space) and get back to only owning 3 cars registered and insured instead of 4, because the M5T is clearly the 4th car these days. I still have my project trucks, but that's a whole nother brain damage I'm not coming clean with. :2:

I part with a rainy vid from a minute ago. I have to keep the M5T because my Adirondack Guide Boat lowers and goes (Thule) straight onto the roof rack system and the SUV's are too tall to do that in my garage.

Hate to see a cord coming out the back - Happy New Year everyone.

Link to Elekta accumulator pipes refurb
Elekta Photos by ggil-tx | Photobucket




Cheers, Geoff


btw, I almost bought that orange 2002 touring off ebay, but thankfully I walked away from the ebay that night. Alcohol and Ebay do not mix well in my house.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
a bad switch can cause a fault, but best thing would be to see if any fault codes stored.

and check the wiring to the rear shocks.
 

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no good explanation. In "P" mode my switch would occasionally not light up, and after checking everything else, i figured i'd try a new switch. Plugged it in, p mode lights up consistently now and the rear feels normal. I have not tested it with auto logic or any other scan tool, but there are no fault codes stored and i can certainly feel the difference between S and P modes.
Blast from the past on this thread but I'm having the same firm EDC with no error message now and my switch only lights up on P mode, no S. Going to try and grab a different EDC switch to see if that sorts it.
 

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Also worth saying this thread probably has the best information I’ve found thus far on troubleshooting EDC and system documentation.
 

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....So email to Nagengast - who were extremely helpful and sent me a test procedure to check if the solenoids in the shocks were working. Which they were, so Nagengast asked if I'd replaced the accumulators as they were "90% sure that was the problem"....
@inchyra If you still have it somewhere in your inbox, could you possibly share the procedure to check the shock solenoids? I emailed Nagenast about this but the person who responded either didn’t know or didn’t want to tell me until I purchased their service. Would be helpful for diagnosing my current stuck in firm EDC issue.
 
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