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Discussion Starter #1
As a new boy please excuse if I have missed a similar thread on the Vanos system but I could not find one.

My story is that just over a week ago whilst happily cruising at 70mph a red warning came on "No oil pressure pull over and stop". Clearly I wasnt going to ignore. I checked the oil level which was Ok at half, but topped up anyway. Still no pressure.
At this stage I would say that this was without any previous warning, there were no odd noises, smells or signs of a leak. It looked like a sudden total pressure loss.

The car was duly trailored back to the dealer. I was hoping that it might just be a sensor but the next day I was told that it was the Vanos pump which had failed and would need replacing. A week later I am back on the road and all seems fine but with a lighter wallet.

Because the pressure drop was sudden I was surprised that it was put down to pump failure which I would have thought would start to loose pressure with a warning light rather than a red danger light. The car is a 2005 with 44k miles and full dealer history. The car had an oil change 1300 miles ago and nothing had indicated then.

On examining the old parts after collecting them with the car it is clear that an internal high pressure hose had failed and was also replaced together with the pump. The pump is an expensive part of the total repair. A pipe bursting fits exactly with the symptoms I experienced.

My questions are:

-Have others also experienced this type of failure on the M6/M5 engine. Is this a known weakness?
-If the pipe fails would it be normal to change the pump as well, even though the pipe is on the outlet of the pump high pressure side and so should not starve the pump of oil.
-Is it reasonable for the dealer to have identified the pipe problem as opposed to pump failure. Because I was interested I did try to find out from the daler exactly what had failed but was told that there was nothing to see when I requested the old parts.

Any views or comments welcome.
 

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The dealer is not authorized to use it's brain. They are told to follow the decision trees and what the software tells them.

This is why, more often than not, they will change a lot of parts which are fine to cure a problem.
Ajax himself could not have said it better! Brilliant Hasan!
 
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The dealer is not authorized to use it's brain. They are told to follow the decision trees and what the software tells them.

This is why, more often than not, they will change a lot of parts which are fine to cure a problem.
Well said, Hasan!!
 
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Happens all the time at the dealership. You throw a code and they replace parts without any diagnostic effort what-so-ever. Just be thankful that they did not suggest replacing the entire Vanos or maybe even the engine.

Once you are out of warranty it is a good idea to find a good independent BMW specialist.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Happens all the time at the dealership. You throw a code and they replace parts without any diagnostic effort what-so-ever. Just be thankful that they did not suggest replacing the entire Vanos or maybe even the engine.

Once you are out of warranty it is a good idea to find a good independent BMW specialist.
We seem to be a bit short on independents in Cumbria. It might be worh looking a little further away.
Thanks.
 

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The use of wrong oil can kill a lot of parts. Also the entire engine. I know the first prototypes of the s85 engine had oil problems. This was in 2001. On high rpm and oil pressure, the oil just turned into foam and not back to liquid oil.

You must use Castrol TWS Motorsport SAE 10W60.

There is also a difference between the old and newer engines from march 2007. Those have 2 oil release screws instead of 1 on the first engines. It is much difficulter to exchange the oil on older models. A lot of things can be done wrong there!
 

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The use of wrong oil can kill a lot of parts. Also the entire engine. I know the first prototypes of the s85 engine had oil problems. This was in 2001. On high rpm and oil pressure, the oil just turned into foam and not back to liquid oil.

You must use Castrol TWS Motorsport SAE 10W60.

There is also a difference between the old and newer engines from march 2007. Those have 2 oil release screws instead of 1 on the first engines. It is much difficulter to exchange the oil on older models. A lot of things can be done wrong there!
I would agree totally. I always carry a litre of oil in the car. I have found that the oil usage is fairly random and at times (probably the driving style) uses more oil than at other times. On a long journey I have topped up before now and with the unusual grade you are unlikely to find it at the next garage.
 
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