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Looks good. Once you install the strut tower top plastic cap the cut should be covered anyway no? What do you have in mind for swaybars?
Between e64, H&R, RD or Dinan front and Adjustable Dinans rear... also looking at monoballs probably...any other ideas?

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FYI car-part shows some front convertible swaybars for about $100. Should be able to get front and rear for less than $200 shipped. Remember these are yards so you can make offers. Just triple-check you get the bars from a convertible as those are the best factory setup. Remember to ask for the bushings holding the bars to the subframe, yards will include them for free just ask.

E64? Any specific year?

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Just an FYI, if anyone is interested with the Ground Control camber plates I spoke with Ground Control yesterday. They said over the phone that you don't need to cut anything up on the top shock mounts. For anyone running KW V3's, you will have to choose the standard inner diameter when buying the Ground Control camber plates..
 

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Just an FYI, if anyone is interested with the Ground Control camber plates I spoke with Ground Control yesterday. They said over the phone that you don't need to cut anything up on the top shock mounts. For anyone running KW V3's, you will have to choose the standard inner diameter when buying the Ground Control camber plates..
Makes you wonder why they have this on their website (IMO never trust the salesman):

Please check strut top for interference at extreme adjustments.
 

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Well we'll soon find out LOL
 

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Makes you wonder why they have this on their website (IMO never trust the salesman):

Please check strut top for interference at extreme adjustments.
I doubt you will get the full effect if no cutting/modifications is/are involved.

IMO I want to save the tires when tracking and driving the car, and this is not a bad "mod" and better than getting something adjustable that may have a negative effect like tire rubbing, etc...I had brand new Bridgestones Comp 2 and in 4 track days and less than 6 months they were shot...

Worse case, if I want to go back to stock, I will have someone weld back the pieces that were cut...not a big deal...again to each their own and there isn't a right or wrong way. But I beleive in Dinan products and has a guarantee fitment and performance standards to BMW.

Sorry if pics are repeat but just to show that it can be put back to stock...anything is possible


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Discussion Starter #88
For the price they can't be beat. There is some adjustment already there so if you are staying stock it will do the job.

I installed some studs and nuts as well as SS/PTFE brake lines. They don't show as much as I would like but they will do the job.
930897
930898

Spacers are on the way for the front. I think I was able to get a good measurement on the rear rotors, 23.4mm. The rotor is etched with 22.8 and the minimum. The DCT60 pads looked like they held up well. I found DCT30 for the rear so I may try that for the next set. They are awesome for the track but after a few miles around town they get really noisy and start eating up the rotors. So now I need a set of street pads.
 

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I think I was able to get a good measurement on the rear rotors, 23.4mm. The rotor is etched with 22.8 and the minimum. The DCT60 pads looked like they held up well. I found DCT30 for the rear so I may try that for the next set. They are awesome for the track but after a few miles around town they get really noisy and start eating up the rotors.
Lol yeah definitely not street friendly. Looks like your rear rotors are just fine then, crappy pads those you had?
 

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I doubt you will get the full effect if no cutting/modifications is/are involved.

IMO I want to save the tires when tracking and driving the car, and this is not a bad "mod" and better than getting something adjustable that may have a negative effect like tire rubbing, etc...I had brand new Bridgestones Comp 2 and in 4 track days and less than 6 months they were shot...

Worse case, if I want to go back to stock, I will have someone weld back the pieces that were cut...not a big deal...again to each their own and there isn't a right or wrong way. But I beleive in Dinan products and has a guarantee fitment and performance standards to BMW.

Sorry if pics are repeat but just to show that it can be put back to stock...anything is possible


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You do what you gotta do even if it comes down to that. Nothing wrong with it really. No disrespect but it just looks a little terrifying to do.. lol. But its all good and I hope you get the results that you are looking for (y)..
 

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Discussion Starter #92
I gotta get me one of those spoilers. I talked to a guy running race cars and he said unless it really big it shouldn't upset the stability. Looks sweet!
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Here's one I forgot to throw out there. When I was running at PIR the oil temp gauge went well above 210. I was running hard at 400hp and it got pretty warm outside later in the day. No running problems. It would come down on the cool down lap.
 

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Here's one I forgot to throw out there. When I was running at PIR the oil temp gauge went well above 210. I was running hard at 400hp and it got pretty warm outside later in the day. No running problems. It would come down on the cool down lap.
I'm bout to take the plunge into some trackdays and that's why I ordered a bigger oil cooler. Its not an RPI but it is made by a company called Radtec based out in the UK. I saw it while browsing the board and the users report positive feedbacks. Seems like a pretty good cost effective option. I can relay some information about it for anyone who asks.
 

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Is it a fairly easy / straightforward DIY?

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It is a fairly easy DIY in my opinion based on what I've seen in the boards. This Radtec unit is basically an oversized version of the OEM unit so I think its a pretty easy swap.
 

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okay thanks, would you be able to share the link of the DIY if you don't mind.
Also do you know if it will take longer for the car to warm up on initial startup?

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okay thanks, would you be able to share the link of the DIY if you don't mind.
Also do you know if it will take longer for the car to warm up on initial startup?

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Honestly never came across that subject about warm up time as far as the Radtec model but I'm pretty sure some of the RPI oil cooler owners might be able to give us an idea. But I can ask the manufacturer to see if he has any info.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Well I finished my last track day for the season. Some of you lucky southers will be able to run through the winter. It started pretty wet and cold so I went out at 400 with the TC on. As the morning progressed it dried out and the track got faster and I turned the TC off and got a pretty good feel for the oversteer and understeer. Just to be clear I put my 285/30's on the front with 10mm spacers and my 255/40's on the rear with 15mm spacers. I also flipped the tires as the outer edges were pretty thin. The tires ran fine other than being cold until the track dried out and the speed came up. Just like last time the track was getting really good by lunch. Of course the sky dumped during lunch and the process started all over again. By the end of the day it was pretty dry and fast, my best was a 2:05. Volume down for the wind noise. I wish I knew how to filter it out so you could hear the engine.

In the last session with the TC off most of the day I was pretty comfortable with the car an bumped up the HP. To my great disappointment at the end of the front straight the car went into limp mode. I put the power back down and finished the day.

Some noteworthy events,

So at the drivers meeting the organizer spent some extra time on everyone respecting the yellow, no passing. Of course the first two laps of the day are always yellow so you can warm up yourself and the car. I was in group B intermediate, passing with a point by in passing zones only. We were all out warming up and pretty bunched up. Even at slow speed I follow my lines for muscle memory, they are way different than the average line. So I was following an e90 M3 that was following an VW GTI. The guy in the VW was out with his daughter. At one point the guy in the GTI have the finger to the guy in the M3. When the track went green the guy in the M3 passed without a point, then it was my turn. I didn't ride the guys *** because of the previous event but he would not point me by. A couple of other cars caught up and I pointed them by but still nothing from the VW. After two laps of that I just pulled off in the hot pit to get away from the VW. After the session was over the event organizer came over to discuss the VW with me. I gave him the run down and requested the A/ advanced run group. That would allow running with faster cars, better drivers and passing anywhere on the track, wow what a difference. I had no other problems the rest of the day and only had a couple of guys pass me.

Event #2, After lunch the track was wet but it was not raining. My brother came down for some rides with his fancy lap timer. We headed out and as we were coming out he was nagging me about letting the tires and brakes warm up. after turn 2 I told him to stick a sock in it or get out of the car. Guess what happened next?
The wind noise is annoying but the screeching and my brothers comments are worth the pain. I kept it on the track but they black flagged me anyway. I was reminded about some oil on the track from the lemons. I was supposed to be in turn nine but I guess they really didn't know?

So to recap what I have learned about my M5 the first year,
#1 pull the pins and take as much factory camber as you can get
#2 the brakes are great just get full race pads, don't mess around with street/track pads you will destroy them. The DTC60's work great once they are hot. They are crap on the street of course. I just picked up a full set of rotors, two sets of street pads and sensors for $500.
#3 save you money on springs/ sway bars and camber plates. If you are serious just put the money into coilovers
#4 run a square tire setup and you really need top of the line tires for this car
#5 run a few days and then flip your tires to get the most out of them. Of course if you have the dough just buy new tires.

The winter work plan,
The rear diff needs a new input shaft seal. Change the fluids all the way around. Try an figure out the 500hp camshaft overretraded problem. And last but not least new/better tires in a square setup, I'm leaning to R888's. I know michelen's are great and the easy pick but that kind of takes the fun out of it.
 

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FYI car-part shows some front convertible swaybars for about $100. Should be able to get front and rear for less than $200 shipped. Remember these are yards so you can make offers. Just triple-check you get the bars from a convertible as those are the best factory setup. Remember to ask for the bushings holding the bars to the subframe, yards will include them for free just ask.

I don't see
 
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