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I just tracked it over the weekend....

Bilstein shocks, stock springs, suspension (sways, bushings, etc..), Active Autowerke Catback exhaust, RMS catless Headers, FastAttack Jim's 93 Octane Tune, RPI scoops, Sprint Booster, everything else is stock (Brakes, rotors, BF Goodrich wheels (need camber), it ran beautifully felt heavy a little but I think it's because of the tires not helping and need to update my sway bars...other than that it's a hella fun track ride!

Btw...I had temporary track wrap.which did not stick well to my ceramic coated car...but it did sort of help, just not as photogenic
What pressures were you running? Looks like you've got eibach springs and dinan caster plates since this pic. What are your plans for swaybars? E64 ones or something else?
 

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What pressures were you running? Looks like you've got eibach springs and dinan caster plates since this pic. What are your plans for swaybars? E64 ones or something else?
That was one of my noob moments , wasnt sure what my pressure was the first day, I think whatever the stock pressure is...next day I was at 38 hot, which may still be too much?

In terms of Sways, I am still undecided...car doesnt roll as much now but I was looking at Dinan or Eibach options...I will have to look at the e64 option as well and do some research...ure thoughts?

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With stock suspension you need higher than stock psi to keep shoulders alive. Increasing camber helps but stock adjustment range is not enough as @Alan Arnesen showed. The dinan caster plates help two-fold: even more static camber and then more caster for increased dynamic camber (i.e. even more camber only when turning). Is it enough? Open question for now.

Coilover stiffer springs keep the chassis more flat (hence tire as well) allowing to run lower psi to increase contact patch and traction.

As for sways... my vote is for e64 front and an aftermarket adjustable rear (dinan?). When I looked at sway stiffness a while ago the e64 front is comparable to the RDS front judging from the RDS chart provided at some point. For rears aftermarket are stiffer than anything bmw ever offered. If you run a square setup you may find aftermarket rears to be too stiff (oversteer).

There's always a crazy setup like @Fiftytwoeighty plans.
 

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I still haven’t picked up my car, as I’ve been traveling for the last three weeks. Also, because I’m the first to do an MCS system on our platform, I was sent some incorrect parts from the suppliers.

I’m going nuts, from (literally) the wrong nuts, they sent! I should be able to pick up the car later this week or weekend.
 

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I just did my first ever auto cross last Sunday. I noticed a lot of understeer especially when I let off the gas a bit. Rookie driving or whatever but I've have been tracking sportbikes since 2004 and just wanted to try it out on a car. The course was mostly low speed 1st and second gear. I honestly just wanted to stay 1st gear but I haven't done my bearings yet (yes, I have mentioned this way too many times on my other posts - car will be dropped off the shop in a week or so finally).

My current set up:

KW V3 coilovers
Stoptech pads with steel lines
Some bolt on stuff - filter, exhaust, pulley
Firestone Indy 500's in factory size

To be done with bearings:

Fast Attack Tune
RMS decats
RadTec Oil Cooler
Camber plates (still deciding between Dinan and Ground Control)
Dinan Roll Control/Sway Bar Package
Turner Monoballs
KW shock collars - to lift the front a bit
Get rid of MDM and install the Euro one (how do you do this again)

I want to run -2 camber when tracking then pull it back when I drive my family around on weekends. That's what is pulling me toward the adjustable Ground Control adjustable top hats. Hopefully with the new suspension mods I will reduce the understeer along with more seat time. Any thoughts?
 

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My current set up:

KW V3 coilovers
Care to show a pic of how your front tires are wearing? Seems you've even more body roll than stock suspension.


Get rid of MDM and install the Euro one (how do you do this again)
Coding, and you want competition mdm not just euro. Got a laptop with ncs?

I want to run -2 camber when tracking then pull it back when I drive my family around on weekends. That's what is pulling me toward the adjustable Ground Control adjustable top hats. Hopefully with the new suspension mods I will reduce the understeer along with more seat time. Any thoughts?
I think 2 deg camber should be achievable using the factory adjustable mounting points. But I've never tried myself so there's that. I don't see why the dinan hats wouldn't allow you to keep using the adjustable mounting points. Of course the GC seem a lot nicer.
 

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"Care to show a pic of how your front tires are wearing? Seems you've even more body roll than stock suspension."

I attached a pic but its not that good. Car is in the garage at home right now but the wear aint that bad. Yeah, I'd like to get rid of that body roll too - I was really aggressive with it during the session but only on the turns. Haven't really messed around with my KW's and also that's why I want some anti-roll bars. I believe I got baseline on it cuz I remember the wife complained it was too stiff one time. Will probably call KW later for some input.


"Coding, and you want competition mdm not just euro. Got a laptop with ncs?"

I got a laptop with NCS expert. I haven't messed around with that either.



"I think 2 deg camber should be achievable using the factory adjustable mounting points. But I've never tried myself so there's that. I don't see why the dinan hats wouldn't allow you to keep using the adjustable mounting points. Of course the GC seem a lot nicer."

I'd like to switch between -2 and -1 or whatever on the fly easily. So I might go with the Ground Control although I probably got close to -2 right now anyway because of the ride height. I gotta check my alignment readings when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
You can run upto -2.5 without abnormal tire wear on the street, that's based on my research and experience. The factory adjustment will get you to about -2. I'm glad someone posted the Dinan plates, there is no way I am cutting up my car. The first thing anyone should do is pull the stupid pins and take the extra camber.

The car feels pretty steady now if I do my job behind the wheel. Autocross is way different than being on the track. The heat issue is not really a factor. Now that I have the DCT60 pads and the extra camber in I can overdrive the tires in all directions, braking, corners and acceleration. As for rolling on the sidewall it had a lot to do with your driving style. It's a big heavy car with lots of power. You have to haul it down from speed before you turn in.

Are the Bilsteins EDC? The wheel gaps look pretty even and the wheel edge looks good as well. Are you running factory tire sizes? I'm going to widen the front and narrow the rear to 275/35-19. Spacers will be added as well. I need to burn up the rears and then all four will be upgraded. The PS cup 2 is the gold standard with the R888R and Conti 6 just behind.
 

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You can run upto -2.5 without abnormal tire wear on the street, that's based on my research and experience. The factory adjustment will get you to about -2. I'm glad someone posted the Dinan plates, there is no way I am cutting up my car. The first thing anyone should do is pull the stupid pins and take the extra camber.

The car feels pretty steady now if I do my job behind the wheel. Autocross is way different than being on the track. The heat issue is not really a factor. Now that I have the DCT60 pads and the extra camber in I can overdrive the tires in all directions, braking, corners and acceleration. As for rolling on the sidewall it had a lot to do with your driving style. It's a big heavy car with lots of power. You have to haul it down from speed before you turn in.

Are the Bilsteins EDC? The wheel gaps look pretty even and the wheel edge looks good as well. Are you running factory tire sizes? I'm going to widen the front and narrow the rear to 275/35-19. Spacers will be added as well. I need to burn up the rears and then all four will be upgraded. The PS cup 2 is the gold standard with the R888R and Conti 6 just behind.
I took the pins out, but it wasn't enough...the cut is pretty small and can be covered with paint...doing the other side today and will be putting up more pics later today

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You can run upto -2.5 without abnormal tire wear on the street, that's based on my research and experience. The factory adjustment will get you to about -2. I'm glad someone posted the Dinan plates, there is no way I am cutting up my car. The first thing anyone should do is pull the stupid pins and take the extra camber.

The car feels pretty steady now if I do my job behind the wheel. Autocross is way different than being on the track. The heat issue is not really a factor. Now that I have the DCT60 pads and the extra camber in I can overdrive the tires in all directions, braking, corners and acceleration. As for rolling on the sidewall it had a lot to do with your driving style. It's a big heavy car with lots of power. You have to haul it down from speed before you turn in.

Are the Bilsteins EDC? The wheel gaps look pretty even and the wheel edge looks good as well. Are you running factory tire sizes? I'm going to widen the front and narrow the rear to 275/35-19. Spacers will be added as well. I need to burn up the rears and then all four will be upgraded. The PS cup 2 is the gold standard with the R888R and Conti 6 just behind.
Nice.. Yeah I don't feel like cutting her up as well. I'm gonna go with removing those pins first and see what happens. But for Autocross, yup cuz I barely used brakes.. totally different from what I read about tracking.. I know that really well from riding sportbikes..
 

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I ran -2.1F/-2.5R on the street with my old setup, without camber plates. I had no “abnormal” wear on the street.

Now, I have the GC camber plates.
 

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I'm glad someone posted the Dinan plates, there is no way I am cutting up my car. The first thing anyone should do is pull the stupid pins and take the extra camber.
GC will have the same issue if increasing caster and using stock EDC shocks. From their webpage:

Please check strut top for interference at extreme adjustments.
 

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Are you increasing caster? If so any issues with the shock top hitting chassis?
I've thought about that too. My thought is to match the new suspension alignment with the old suspension numbers as a baseline -- then make adjustments. With that said, I'm really deferring to the experts and having OMS work with MCS to dial in the suspension. I'm not planning to pick up my e60 until Sunday -- when I go down to tune my e28.

Installing the suspension is the easy part. Dialing the suspension in -- that's the hard part.
 

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Here is my progress...did the other side on the Dinan Camber plates...install was straight forward...went ahead and made a cut opening...I will paint it, imo still looks clean. Also bolted all the way in, I will give updates when I do the alignment and next track in Nov.
Part of the reason I did it was the last pic, wear on outside.

Finally working on installing a CF Front Lip (should help with downforce and ofcourse looks)...used double side 3M tape, and fender washers+screws+nuts (dont know the sizes off top of my head but will post later if someone is interested)...and yes I had to drill the bumper but it's not that bad and will upload pics of how it looks from bottom..
Thoughts?



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Here is my progress...did the other side on the Dinan Camber plates...install was straight forward...went ahead and made a cut opening...I will paint it, imo still looks clean. Also bolted all the way in, I will give updates when I do the alignment and next track in Nov.
Part of the reason I did it was the last pic, wear on outside.
Looks good. Once you install the strut tower top plastic cap the cut should be covered anyway no? What do you have in mind for swaybars?
 

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FYI car-part shows some front convertible swaybars for about $100. Should be able to get front and rear for less than $200 shipped. Remember these are yards so you can make offers. Just triple-check you get the bars from a convertible as those are the best factory setup. Remember to ask for the bushings holding the bars to the subframe, yards will include them for free just ask.

 
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Alan Arnesen
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