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IB DinanS2++ e60m5 6MT, Dogleg s38b38 e28m5 TT/ST3, e30 TT/ST4
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Maybe? When taken beyond their limit the NT01s feel like the shoulders start rolling / skipping / jumping. No one will keep the tire doing that so it's more of a feeling rather than a wear pattern. I suspect it may be related to them being pinched a bit on 9.5 wheels. What wheel width are you running? I see your fronts wearing all the way to a line on the sidewall (same as mine) instead of the TWIs as your rears.
I was having air pressure challenges. I started at 28 cold and ended up over 40 hot. I know I took out too much, just by the wear pattern. Willow Springs puts a beating on the DS front tire. The rears were perfect. I'm running a 17x8 square 245/45.

RC-1 is on my short list for the e28. A few of my e46 guys love them -- and they are cheap(er) than Toyo RRs. I am still running Yoko AD08Rs on the e60. Nankang CR-1 is also on the short list.

This is where I get Toyo RRs for the e30:
Home - Phil's Tire Service (philstireservice.com)
 

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Haven't had time to write but here's a short summary: the RC1 is the best tire I've tried yet. Def an improvement over the NT01. They most definitely have a stiffer sidewall which makes turn in A LOT more responsive. For the first time I didn't feel the extra weight our cars have. It wasn't until the afternoon sessions when it got into the 80s that they got greasy at 45psi after many hard laps - and I was still playing with pressure. The sweet spot seemed low 40s. First time I've felt a tire get into it's window and how fun that was. There was a GT4 that I was pushing for a few laps when the guy decided to let me by. Exiting turns the GT4 is faster (torquier) but by the end of the straight I was right behind him. I could outbrake him but that's beyond HPDE tactics. Next session I lined up first and guy was right behind me. After a warmup lap I let the guy by and followed him for a couple laps. Got a 'level 1' temp warning so I eased off. Car cooled down in half a lap or so (thanks RPI cooler and also running heater at full blast). Waited to see if anyone would catch up but nope, we pulled away from everyone else.

Unknown is how they'll hold up over a season. Visually they seem fine. I plan to drive them to/from the track (same as the NT01s).



Post pics of the old rotors. Curious to see how far you took them. I had non-cracked rotors in prety good shape at the beginning of the day and now cracks have started to form. Seriously considering installing the rotor backing plates to slow down rotor cooling. And maybe getting a set from FCP lol...



Maybe? When taken beyond their limit the NT01s feel like the shoulders start rolling / skipping / jumping. No one will keep the tire doing that so it's more of a feeling rather than a wear pattern. I suspect it may be related to them being pinched a bit on 9.5 wheels. What wheel width are you running? I see your fronts wearing all the way to a line on the sidewall (same as mine) instead of the TWIs as your rears.
What is the part number of the RC1 and the offset of your Apex wheels? I assume they are Apex. Thinking about a square setup before taking a plunge with with RT660's.
 

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What is the part number of the RC1 and the offset of your Apex wheels? I assume they are Apex. Thinking about a square setup before taking a plunge with with RT660's.
No idea about PN. I got them from Maxxis website. Seems they only sell direct anyway? I got the newer R2 compound 275/35/18.

And yes my wheels are apex 18x10x25. I've a 18x9.5x22 set that I'll be selling soon. They're from last year when I ran with NT01s.

I was having air pressure challenges. I started at 28 cold and ended up over 40 hot. I know I took out too much, just by the wear pattern. Willow Springs puts a beating on the DS front tire. The rears were perfect. I'm running a 17x8 square 245/45.
Ah got it - yeah no idea about 245s and what wheel width they like.
 

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No idea about PN. I got them from Maxxis website. Seems they only sell direct anyway? I got the newer R2 compound 275/35/18.

And yes my wheels are apex 18x10x25. I've a 18x9.5x22 set that I'll be selling soon. They're from last year when I ran with NT01s.



Ah got it - yeah no idea about 245s and what wheel width they like.
Nice.. will be looking at FL5's with those RC1 tires.. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #625 ·
I did not get a picture before I tossed them, I can tell you they were below the minimum measurement and I used them one more time. None of the cracks propagated from vent to vent or to the edge. When they were hot at the track there were no visible cracks. I have had a cracked rotor on my E38, it was not catastrophic but you will know right away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #626 ·
Well it was a busy day getting ready for today, I gathered my pit crew(son and nephew). I did an oil and filter on the engine with a sample taken. I did and oil change on the transmission and rear differential. I removed the carbon filters in the engine air box and installed my RPI air filters, I will finish the RPI mod later. I switched in my Hawk DTC60 brake pads, my wheel studs and lugs. And of course my Beyern Spartan wheel with my awesome Michelin piolet sport 4S tires.

I need to move my camera mount, get the lap timer set up and maybe code out the DSC? Not sure I am brave enough to do the last one right before I go, it should be fine but I always worry about killing the car when I code. A shifter will be ordered today, my son had me video him shifting to show off and it's hilarious watching him fumble around looking for the next gear. Other than yesterday he has about 20min of manual time in his life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #627 ·
OMFG! Is the final drive ratio for the manual actually 2.93? That would be criminal! That will come out in short order. That's like my 750il, I even switched that to 3.15.
 

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I thought the stock final drive for the SMG and 6MT is the same at 3.62? I'm thinking about going 3.91, seems to be a good middle ground between better acceleration but still being able to drive at a reasonable rpm on the highway (which is what I'd be worried about with a 4.10).
 

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Discussion Starter · #631 ·
WTF! I buy 6 speed manual car and it goes into limp mode for the transmission! More to come.

So it was of course a great day, only about five cars in my run group. The brakes worked great, the tires worked great and the car for the most part worked great. The biggest problem was the nut behind the wheel!

I think we can all agree that the factory shifter is an insult to engineering. I bled the clutch this morning and it seemed a bit better. In the early sessions I was grinding almost every up shift. I was not up on the heal/toe program but didn't have a problem(most of the time) down shifting. I started out short shifting at 6500 and that seemed okay. Then I decided that I would shift less and use more RPM and carried the straights right up to 8000+. That was working great and I was hauling *** right up until the trans temp gave the high alarm. Conveniently I got black flagged so I was coming off anyway.

So apparently I had something hanging down under the car hitting the ground and throw sparks. One of the many underbody shields had come loose and was dragging on the ground. I was able to remove the fastener but the shield was all torn up. I asked one of the track employees if he had a large fender washer or a piece of sheet metal with a hole in it larger than the torn piece I was holding in my hand. He drove all over the paddock to find and modify a piece of flashing for me. Meanwhile I lost a session, ordered a burger and filled the tank. With the panel secured I had two sessions to go.

They were 30min sessions but was cooled down and off the track in 20 most of the time. With a renewed and well fed vigor I was determined to put in some good laps. My best with the SMG was 2:00 and the best I had done so far was a 2:06. So I headed back out for same fast laps and was really hitting a rhythm. The brakes are just unstoppable and I slowed down my up shifts and that seems to help with the grinding. Just one problem I forgot to push the magic button, 400hp= 2:10 laps.

So here we go, last session. Sun going down, P500 and a fare nut behind the wheel. I had been trying all kinds of different lines all day but for the last session go with what you know. Tons of heavy trailbraking and hard on the power out of the apex. I missed a few shifts but overall I was pushing pretty hard. 2:04. Considering the lack of camber and better springs that pretty good for my first time out.

So here are my questions to the manual folks. On the upshift it seems that you have to wait a second for the RPM to come down to get a clean shift? While the PO sold me a clutch and was planning on changing it the clutch never slipped. The pedal has to be to the floor to get the shift correct but otherwise it seems fine. O the shifter, what a piece of trash. And last but not least it the rear diff, there would be a definite benefit from taller gear back there. The transmission gears are just to far apart and you lose some punch.

Videos to come and I would like some feedback on my shifting. Overall a great day for me and the car.
 

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Congratulation for the new ride if that what it is.
AFAIK, the 6speed S85 doesn't use longer final drive, It is still 3.62. The only difference is that the gear ratios inside the gearbox is taller than the SMG 7speed box.
 

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3.62 is OEM, I have a 3.91. 4.10 would be the next step.

No idea why the tranny is overheating; mine has never overheated and gone into limp mode.

And no, you do not need to slow your shifts with the OEM clutch and FW.

This is OEM:
I’m not slowing down my shifts at all — and beating the SMG that was on my left.
 

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On the upshift it seems that you have to wait a second for the RPM to come down to get a clean shift?
Might be the release bearing going bad.

Ambient air temp was 107 on this day at Buttonwillow, and no tranny issues:
 

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Discussion Starter · #636 ·
Well the shifter is going for sure and I will check the I-level and the DSC will be off soon. I'm going to blame the worn clutch because this nut is just right. I always forget that Button Willow is hot as a pistol, I don't know how you do it I would shrivel up and die!

The driveshaft for the SMG should show up today, hoping to got Halibut fishing before we go pick up our daughter in Minnesota.
 

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I think the nut is well adjusted.

For reference lap times at Ridge…
e46m3 lap times for Class A at Lucky Dog. Best lap was 1.54.613.
950540

Class C times are at 2:00ish
950541
 

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The best lap of the day, the G's look good in the corners. Tips are welcome.
Only thing I can say is try to keep both hands on the wheel as much as possible. Btw, how did the trans temp go with yours? Mine popped a high temp warning on my last session. It was only around 70 degrees as I recall. Was talking to @Fiftytwoeighty about his fluid. Gonna give that redline shockproof a try. Im running the Redline MTL currently.
 
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