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Anyone know why my car wouldn’t respond to downshifting to 2nd gear with the SMG? It felt as if the car wouldn’t allow to go down to 2nd gear until a certain speed or rpms. So several times I had to press the paddle twice as it was unresponsive but also feared pressing it again not wanting it to drop down to 1st gear.

Here is one of my laps, if you see anytime being I’m on 3rd gear downshifting to 2nd before entering a corner is slow because it wasn’t responsive.

Once you solve the track, you could carry 3rd and a lot more speed into Turn 1 and Turn 7. I think that's half the fun -- trying to solve the track and finding time in the corners. Did you get any coaching or instruction during the day? For any level of driver, a good instructor is like having the answer sheet to the exam.


936621

^Looks like you were on the brakes too early and over slowed -- because you wanted to get into 2nd gear for turn. That's a 3rd gear corner, all day. The cars in front were able to carry more speed through that left hander. Experiment on braking half way between the 2 and 3 marker in 3rd. As you get more comfortable, you'll start trail braking closer to the 1 marker and get the car to rotate into that late apex. Try to get your PS wheel on the kerb to the right when you turn-in, to give you the extra space you need with more speed, for a faster exit. 3rd will also let you get on the throttle earlier and balance the car on exit.

936622

^Now, with all that new-found speed in 3rd, the car will want to track out to the kerbs on the right as you open up your steering. Looking at the map, it almost looks like if you correctly set the steering angle on turn-in on Turn 7, the car will track out to the right kerbs on Turn 8, and set you up perfectly for the exit apex to carry more exit speed into Turn 9. Basically, it looks like if you can solve Turn 7, Turn 8 can become a flat-out straightaway, into Turn 9.

As for me, I'd probably end up fighting my front tires, end up off the track and in the red circle above!

For reference:
936623
 

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it will be awhile before you can find an unloved C8!
I had the #2 spot for a C8 of my small town local Dealer's 7 car allocation, I gave it up due to rumors of drive by wire braking.

It is probably not an issue, but reminded me of many misses i spotted in the driving feel, chassis communication, and response of driver controls of even the best engineered Euro cars.

Thus i backed out, will wait till test drives are available even if that means 2022


love the interior shots starting at 1:48
 

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I'm all for the red circle! Done that a few times.
You and me both. I think responsibly stepping over the line, at a safe spot on a track, is the only way to learn. The dichotomy, of course, is the slap on the wrist from the track Marshall for "leaving the racing surface". But DE days are about safely exploring your cars limits in a safe "closed course" environment and not on public streets!

"Take it to the track!" but don't go off because you will get a black flag and a chat with the Marshall...Thankfully, as long as you can explain yourself to the Marshall, most Marshalls around here take things in stride.
 

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Once you solve the track, you could carry 3rd and a lot more speed into Turn 1 and Turn 7. I think that's half the fun -- trying to solve the track and finding time in the corners. Did you get any coaching or instruction during the day? For any level of driver, a good instructor is like having the answer sheet to the exam.


View attachment 936621
^Looks like you were on the brakes too early and over slowed -- because you wanted to get into 2nd gear for turn. That's a 3rd gear corner, all day. The cars in front were able to carry more speed through that left hander. Experiment on braking half way between the 2 and 3 marker in 3rd. As you get more comfortable, you'll start trail braking closer to the 1 marker and get the car to rotate into that late apex. Try to get your PS wheel on the kerb to the right when you turn-in, to give you the extra space you need with more speed, for a faster exit. 3rd will also let you get on the throttle earlier and balance the car on exit.

View attachment 936622
^Now, with all that new-found speed in 3rd, the car will want to track out to the kerbs on the right as you open up your steering. Looking at the map, it almost looks like if you correctly set the steering angle on turn-in on Turn 7, the car will track out to the right kerbs on Turn 8, and set you up perfectly for the exit apex to carry more exit speed into Turn 9. Basically, it looks like if you can solve Turn 7, Turn 8 can become a flat-out straightaway, into Turn 9.

As for me, I'd probably end up fighting my front tires, end up off the track and in the red circle above!

For reference:
View attachment 936623
To avoid red circle one needs 285 cup2 on front
The first time I drove track with front no longer available Corsa 285’s I was astounded by how much more front end grip I had
It appeared I could enter corner at any speed I wanted, overcooking a turn was impossible when my corsas were newer break away traction appeared same as static .
Simple trail braking transferred weight to front adding traction to gain control over any kamakazi move I tried.
I could even tighten my arc at the expense of keeping rear from stepping out.
In fact all I had to worry about was being as light as a feather on the throttle, the feeble torque of the s85 between 2500 and 3500 rpm was a godsend
 

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I started a thread in Rennlist a while back, it may be of interest here:


Originally Posted by fatbillybob View Post
This is only true if the event organizer policy lists the participant as an "additional insured." I have only run with maybe 10 groups over last 20 years and only the SCCA policy lists participants as additional insured. I am sure there are other good polices perhaps NASA, POC, PCA clubs with a racing group. I have never seen participants as additional insureds in low end HPDE clubs or occasional track days via FOC. That is why the Ferrari drive got the $90k judgement against him.

I have found no homeowners policy or personal liability umbrella that lists racing as an insured activity.

My research has shown that you have to rely on the organizer to buy the proper policy since it is the only one that protect you. That organization needs to be big enough with a deep brain trust to manage all its working parts to protect participants on and off the track.


Hello,
This is a great and really important discussion thread. I am Ben Phillips, the founder of OpenTrack and we have built an insurance platform for serious drivers. About a year ago, for all the exact reasons mentioned in this thread and post I am quoting, we launched the first and only on-track liability policy for individuals who track.

We were always baffled by the idea that all parties at the track could buy insurance and transfer risk except the individuals who are actually driving on-track and are the lifeblood of the sport. So we built coverage to solve that problem and fill the gap.

Our liability policy protects drivers in the event they are responsible for damage to both individuals (bodily injury) as well as property (other cars on-track or track property). So it is a very comprehensive coverage and offers the protection that is missing from personal liability policies (i.e. umbrella) away from the track.

Visit OpenTrack.com to check it out. $1M or $2M of coverage is available on both an annual basis as well as daily.

Happy to answer any questions.

Thanks,
BP
__
Visit our website today for On-Demand Daily and/or Annual Track Insurance. Both Physical Damage and Liability coverages available.

opentrack.com
 

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Discussion Starter #249
According to my agent it is driver education not racing so it is still covered. I'm more worried about hitting a more expensive car. Of course there is no expectation of fault at these events but a pissed off driver could still sue. To further that standard all of the clubs require an instructor, Audi, BMW and Porsche club track days are the best value for instruction. Hooked on Driving has just added this feature to there track days but it's a little more expensive.
 

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Wise words of the Owner of a Company i worked for:

"If it is not in writing it was never said"

Got burned by a verbal assurance by an Agent in the past, in fact even if stated in an email by an Agent, they cannot contradict what is in the Policy.
 

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For whatever reason, this guy always cracks me up. He talks about hand position in this video.

 

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Discussion Starter #253
Not sure this is legit but it's a good example.
Speed Secret: A Key to Driving Fast – Your Seat.

race-car-seating
I recall being told a story about the time when Dodge Neons were the car to have in the SCCA Showroom Stock B class (a long time ago!). In their first season they were fast, but not dominant. During the off- season between year one and two, competitors lobbied the SCCA to allow them to use proper racing seats instead of the stock ones that came from the factory, and the rules were changed to allow this.
While the change was made primarily for safety reasons, along with just more comfort, it had an unexpected side effect that should have been expected. On average, with no other changes allowed, the Neons were about a second a lap faster everywhere they raced in the second season.
How can that be? It had nothing to do with weight, by the way. It all had to do with the driver being better supported and being able to sense the limits of the car better. Instead of having to hang onto the steering wheel for support, the drivers were now able to have a lighter grip on the wheel, and therefore received better feedback. And by being supported better, they could sense body roll, weight transfer, and balance more accurately.
Think about that, and how your seat may be affecting your lap times.
 

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Discussion Starter #254
Speed Secret: Driving Fast Comes From a Light Touch on the Steering Wheel.
I was talking with a friend and he asked how tightly I recommend a driver hold the steering wheel. See, he plays golf, the guitar, and is in the process of learning to play the fiddle.
9&3-steering-wheel
His fiddle teacher told him to hold the bow with “3 pressure” – meaning that on a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being grasping the bow as tightly as possible. My friend said that he’s had golf instructors suggest about the same grip pressure, so he wondered whether this applied to driving as well.
I hadn’t ever thought of it that way before, but I am now! And I think that holding the wheel with about “3 pressure” is a good target. Sure, there are times where you might have to tighten your grip just a little more, depending on the type of car you’re driving (a high-downforce car through a fast, grippy corner, for example). But if you aim to hold the wheel with a light grip, you’ll have better sensitivity to the feedback you get through the wheel.
The next time you’re driving down the highway in your street car, grip
the steering wheel as tightly as possible. Notice how much vibration you feel through the wheel. Next, lighten your grip to around “3 pressure,” and notice how much more feel you have. With a lighter grip, your arms are more relaxed, and because of that, more feedback from the wheel is transferred to your brain where it can be translated into information about what the car is doing.
And the next time you’re on the track, try “3 pressure” to control the steering wheel. If it works with musical instruments and golf clubs, it must work for driving!

I have been told by most of my instructors to loosen my grip a stretch my finger on the straights.
 

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Speed Secret: Driving Fast Comes From a Light Touch on the Steering Wheel.
I was talking with a friend and he asked how tightly I recommend a driver hold the steering wheel. See, he plays golf, the guitar, and is in the process of learning to play the fiddle.
9&3-steering-wheel
His fiddle teacher told him to hold the bow with “3 pressure” – meaning that on a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being grasping the bow as tightly as possible. My friend said that he’s had golf instructors suggest about the same grip pressure, so he wondered whether this applied to driving as well.
I hadn’t ever thought of it that way before, but I am now! And I think that holding the wheel with about “3 pressure” is a good target. Sure, there are times where you might have to tighten your grip just a little more, depending on the type of car you’re driving (a high-downforce car through a fast, grippy corner, for example). But if you aim to hold the wheel with a light grip, you’ll have better sensitivity to the feedback you get through the wheel.
The next time you’re driving down the highway in your street car, grip
the steering wheel as tightly as possible. Notice how much vibration you feel through the wheel. Next, lighten your grip to around “3 pressure,” and notice how much more feel you have. With a lighter grip, your arms are more relaxed, and because of that, more feedback from the wheel is transferred to your brain where it can be translated into information about what the car is doing.
And the next time you’re on the track, try “3 pressure” to control the steering wheel. If it works with musical instruments and golf clubs, it must work for driving!

I have been told by most of my instructors to loosen my grip a stretch my finger on the straights.
If you're a hockey player -- don't choke the stick, is a good rule, when it comes to grip.
 

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Discussion Starter #256
I'm jonesen big time. All the track days are canceled and I'm shipping out Friday for two months. Tore it up the other night with my daughter(music blasting) but it's just not the same as being on the track. She did like the 4k launch!

I don't know about other states but in Washington cops are everywhere! They must be bored to death with so few cars on the road.
 

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I've noticed some of the cars on the road are driving much more like idiots now - maybe because less traffic, maybe because they think cops are busy with other things - which doesn't seem true to me, but who knows. In this area accidents are actually up which is a surprise on the surface but not when you see these people out there driving like they are on the Mad Max set.
 

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My area too (Philly suburbs).
I think that the only thing that keeps their speed down is the presence of other cars. Nuts.. tailgating too


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and meanwhile when I have the M5 out and few cars on the road that dang V10 keeps tempting me to rev higher - more RPM - more RPM - the siren cries!!
 

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I've no idea how you have such little shoulder wear using stock suspension and only 0.7 neg camber. Not to mention the tire pressure you're running. I ran stock -1 camber, stiffer E64 swaybars and even with 40 psi cold (or 45? can't remember it's been a while) I get horrid front shoulder wear.
by the tire wear of outside shoulders vs inside , yes I do need more camber
CE26C792-7C63-43BA-A3EC-37264B68948D.jpeg
A52D40D8-705A-48BA-ABD9-AA4D6AC64541.jpeg
 
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