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62 Posts
Not having much luck with search but going to be replacing my flexible brake hoses and cant find the size needed for the flare spanner.

Looking to get all the kit before removing wheels.

755 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
DIY now fixed thanks to your finding the archived version. gave you a shoutout

1,019 Posts
Is there a DIY for adjusting the parking brake? Mine doesn't hold very well on a semi-steep incline, sometimes keeps rolling until I turn the car off in 1.

755 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
Added Gas-Man's rod bearing replacement DIY (still a work in progress).

185 Posts
This thread is gold. It gives and gives and gives. Thanks so much to the OP and everyone that has contributed since.....

1,019 Posts
Is there a DIY for adjusting the parking brake? Mine doesn't hold very well on a semi-steep incline, sometimes keeps rolling until I turn the car off in 1.
Turns out my holding power was much improved after swapping rear rotors. If someone is just changing rear pads, it'd be good practice to remove the rotors and clean the inside of the rotor hat where the e-brake pads contact. The old rotors were full of dust and grime on the inside.

105 Posts
how bout adding this....
DIY: Thigh Support Extension Motor Assembly
Mine just went out and I had to do a little bit of searching for this.

As described above, at some unknown moment my thigh support extension on my driver seat stopped moving. I have no clue when that happened. In fact, I think it broke as a result of a faulty design. As you will see in the pictures below, the nylon gear that is over-molded on the worm wheel split in two pieces. Inspecting the part it looks like the part shrunk and the tensile forces in the material simply made it split in two. It may be that the force exerted by the e-motor may have helped it along. In any case a replacement unit lists for $215 on and I figured it would be worthwhile trying to fix it before shelling out a lot of money for something I do not even really use anyways.

I recommend consulting BMW TIS for the disassembly process. I have pasted in a picture of the TIS software. Getting the actuator out is actually very simple and quick. TIS recommends to remove the whole front seat out of the car, but you don’t need to do this.

The first job is to remove the thigh support cushion. Two torx screws hold this cushion in place. Raise the seat up as far as it will and pull the cushion forward as much as possible by hand. That way you will expose the 2 torx screws that mount the cushion to the extension rails.

When you lift the cushion up, be careful as there is a heating element in it that is connected by a 2 wire harness. It can be dis connected, but I did not bother. Just lay it back. Make sure the harness wires are not stressed.

Underneath the cushion you will find 10 torx screws that hold the entire extension assembly to the seat. Remove all of them. The outermost screws on the left and right are hidden under the leather, so push this leather aside to find them. Here is the guidance from TIS:

Eventually the entire assembly 2 as shown in the picture below will come loose from the seat. The e-motor needs to be disconnected before being able to remove it. The connector has a small latching tab that needs to be pushed down to release it. Pull it out while pushing down on it.

Before being able to remove the assembly from underneath the seat, a plastic cover must be removed. It is item 10 in the picture below. When you try to fold the assembly out from underneath the seat by rotating is down and out, you will hit this piece of plastic. Easily remove it by pulling it forward (in the direction of the pedals). It pops right off.

Now you have the assembly out. Be sure that you do not rotate one side of the assembly more than 360 degrees relative to the other side as the extensions will no longer align. Upon reinstalling the unit, re-check for this as it will result in the extension arms not sticking out by the same length. Pretty obvious.

Now lay the unit flat on a table as shown below (in the picture I already removed the e-motor).

We now have to remove 6 more torx screws of two different sizes to be able to open the gearbox of the assembly. See the picture below for their locations:

Three (3) smaller black screws that hold the motor in the assembly. Remove these first and pull the e-motor out:

Then proceed with the 3 larger size silver torx screws. The cover of the gear assembly will not come off after removing these screws. This is a good example of German over-engineering (and still getting it wrong. After all that is why we are here). The cover will have 5 (!) more latches that need to be released. Get ready for a *careful* fight. The latches are STIFF. You need to pry them away just enough and somehow pull up on the cover at the same time to get them beyond the latch point. I stuck small nails/pins in between the latches to keep them in a "pried off" state. I did a few and then was able to pry the cover up to release it. It flew 3 feet up in the air when it released itself! BTW: Not a job for when it is cold outside as you will probably crack/snap the plastic latches. Be careful and patient and outsmart Heinrich the BMW engineer.

Finally, after opening up the little gear box you get to the problem:

The nylon gear broke off the worm wheel assembly and thus the connection between the motor and the extension mechanism is broken. This is the problem.

We will proceed and fix it with some JB Weld “Cold Weld” 8265S epoxy. This stuff is great. Since the gear box is packed with grease we need to clean the nylon gear and the worm wheel axle first. The worm wheel can simply be pulled up and out. Watch out for the 2 black plastic bearing pieces. Pull them off the axle and save them such that they don’t get lost. Fish the gear pieces out of the box. Wipe the grease off as much as possible. Then I cleaned them with some warm water and dish washer soap as this is good for grease removal. Just agitate it a bit in the water, use a small brush. Now the parts should be reasonably clean, but it is not good enough for JB Weld to work well. JB Weld’s adhesion is compromised with a miniscule amount of grease. So, I proceeded to roughen the mating surfaces, where the nylon touches the axle. Roughen both the axle and the inside of the nylon. I used a small file for this. Don’t lean into it, just roughen it a bit. Don’t remove an excessive amount of material. Wipe the metal and plastic flakes off.

Note by the way that I also roughened a little beyond the mating surfaces. I also used a small piece of medium grit sand paper to roughen the sides of the nylon gears. That way we can even get a small bit of epoxy on the side of the gear pieces. Of course, such that it does not get in the teeth of the gear. I did this again on both sides. Excess epoxy in the location will not cause mechanical interference in the gear box. The good thing about JB Weld is that it is so hard when it cures, that you can work on it with files and fix and small issues later.

Find yourself a clamp and test fit the 3 pieces together. Do this all before you apply the glue to make sure it all will work. I used s small vice that I gently clamped the nylon halves onto the axle with. Be sure to not crush the teeth of the gear! Depending on how and where your gear pieces cracked, you may need to change the clamping strategy.

The nylon pieces, as shown in the picture below don’t quite meet when clamped. Don’t torque down more on the vice to “fix” this. I actually think the nylon shrunk over time, causing high tensile forces and cracking the contraption. Especially because it broke without me working the motor some time when I was not even using the vehicle.

Finally, make sure you know exactly how the pieces need to go on by looking at them carefully. You do not want to figure this out when you have glue on the contraption and get it wrong. It will make a mess.

Feeling comfortable with the clamping strategy I proceeded with the epoxy application. I applied epoxy in a thin layer onto the metal axle surfaces, only where the gear halves touch. I used a very thin layer because it is such a tight fit. I was worried that clamping would ooze the excess glue out and get everywhere, like in between the gear teeth and ruin the whole fix.

Then without applying more epoxy to the inside of the nylon gears I clamped the two halves together onto the axle using just my fingers. Then while holding it, I applied the bead of glue that rides up on the sides of the gears as shown in the pictures below. It requires a bit of patience and finesse. I used a tooth pick to apply little dabs of glue and then molded it the way I wanted it to be. (I think JB Weld is better than duct tape!)

When done, put it in the clamp as discussed before. Now, an important last step is to clean your gear teeth. Using a clean tooth pick, while clamped, wipe excess epoxy out of the teeth in which the crack formed. In the pictures below I had not done this yet. Go as deep as it lets you. Now, visually there will be glue left, but as long as it does not “puddle” between the teeth it should work out.

Now, get yourself a beer or a Shirley Temple and wait a whole 24 hours. I always leave my epoxy mix-puddle on the side such that I know when the goop is hardened out without having to try the actual part for strength. My experience with JB is to wait the *whole* 24 hours. It cures very slowly and remains tacky and soft for quite few hours. Don’t reassemble it after 6 hours and try the motor. I think you would rip the parts back off as the motor is quite powerful. And then you need to go to your local BMW dealer to get a new assembly.

Reassembled, the gear box looks like this:

Now reverse the process and put it all back together. It seemed to work out for me, everything work again and seems to be holding up so far. Time will tell if this is a long term fix. I will report back if it break again. And if it does, I will but a brand spanking new module, because that would be beyond my attention span.

I had enough grease in the gear box left to lube the whole system back up. There were big dabs of it left and I just scooped and applied. If that is not the case for you, lithium grease orthe like will do I guess. I take recommendations here....

Good luck!

755 Posts
Discussion Starter #76
added, thanks for heads up.

723 Posts
Please let me know if you find a better DIY for any of the below, either here or on an external site. New DIYs are always welcome.

Summary of Mike Miller’s Old School Maintenance Schedule (not specific to E60 M5)
(Email Mike Miller for the full writeup: techtalk [at]
- Brake fluid: Every 1-2 years
- Engine coolant: Every 2 years (50/50 mix of BMW anti-freeze + distilled water)
- Engine oil/filter: Every 7,500 miles (Castrol TWS Motorsport 10W-60)
- Engine air filter: Inspect every 15,000 miles, replace every 15,000-30,000
- Cabin air filter: Inspect every 15,000 miles, replace every 15,000-30,000
- Power steering fluid: every 30,000 miles (Pentosin CHF 11.S)
- Transmission oil (SMG & 6MT): every 30,000 miles (MTF-LT-2 or Red Line MTL)
..........(Note: This does not refer to the hydraulic fluid for the SMG pump, which is the same as the power steering fluid - CHF 11S)
- Differential oil: every 30,000 miles (Castrol SAF-XJ or Red Line 75W-140)
- Spark plugs: every 30,000-60,000 miles (stick with OEM but Amazon has them cheap)
- Fuel filter: every 60,000 miles
- Engine drive belts: every 60,000 miles
- O2 sensors: 150k miles (or just wait for it to trip a CEL)
- Water/fuel hoses: 150k miles
- Rod bearings: As early as 50k miles (see here)

Oil change:
- thanks Black Hawk

Oil change 2 [pics dead]:
- thanks jfenley

Brake fluid flush: BMW Brake Fluid Change:
- thanks Killer-Bimmer (PDF saved here if external link breaks:

Transmission fluid flush:
- thanks Clyde and WallyM5 (original reference thread:

Differential fluid flush:
- thanks SoCaLE39

Differential fluid flush 2:
- thanks Black Hawk

Power steering fluid flush (regular E60): Power Steering Flush - - Forums
- thanks Inferno

Spark plug replacement:
- thanks mdyaman and dkz (original thread with broken DIY:

Spark plug/coil replacement:
- thanks STM5

Air filter replacement: BMW E60 M5 DIY: Air Filter Replacement
- thanks mdyaman (reference thread:
- Dinan air filter replacement:

Fuel filter/sending unit replacement:
- thanks mdyaman

Brake rotor/pad/sensor change:
- thanks f1lmmaker
- also see this video for an E63: Brake Pad and rotor replacement for BMW M6 - YouTube)
- also see this writeup for an E63: DIY: BMW 650i / 645Ci / E63 / E64 Brake Pad and Rotors - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

Brake pad change:
- thanks Badr and Clyde

Cabin air filter replacement: BMW 5 Series (E60, E61) 2004-2010 - Cabin microfilter fresh air filter DIY, how to - YouTube
- also: Fixing Stuff: Replacing BMW E60 Microfilter (cabin air filter)
- thanks sigsegv (reference thread:

Service interval reset via OBC:
- thanks celicatoe46m3

Rod bearing replacement: BMW E60 M5 Rod Bearings DIY
- thanks GAS-Man

Throttle body cleaning:
- thanks duhmingus

Throttle actuator motor replacement:
- thanks vataam5

Replace VANOS solenoids:
- thanks anzafin
(see here for additional VANOS info:

Alternator removal/replacement:
- thanks Euroskeptik

Rear window cover/seal: E60 BMW M5 Rear Window Cover Replacement DIY - YouTube
- thanks mcw331 (reference thread:

Windshield trim replacement (E63):
- thanks Clyde

Voltage regulator:
- thanks latinskllz

Radiator/Cooling system:
- thanks Euroskeptic

SMG service workflow and troubleshooting diagrams:
- thanks phorte

SMG hydraulic pump replacement:
- thanks B767capt

SMG pump relay replacement:
- thanks cobratom (also see here from B767capt:

SMG repair/replacement pictorial:
- thanks ///power

Battery replacement:
- thanks Tottifan

New battery registration:
- thanks dave t (E63 forum)

Steering angle sensor (SZL) cleaning:
- thanks shuriki and g_force_alt (reference thread:

MAF sensor removal/cleaning:
- thanks mdyaman

Access/repair windshield wiper fluid reservoir: Leaking Windshield washer reservoir - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums
- thanks mdyaman (reference thread:

Pre-Cat O2 sensor replacement:
- thanks douglas_ngo

Pre-Cat O2 sensor replacement 2: (post #277)
- thanks anzafin

Themostat replacement:
- thanks vantaam5, PRM5 and tkhater

Remove transmission (from ISTA):
- thanks WallyM5

Clutch replacement 1 (for E63):
- thanks Q.

Clutch replacement 2:
- thanks Niner49

DIS Clutch adaptation:
- thanks Inferno

Charcoal filter removal:
- thanks Jfenley

Scoops (RPI): Race Precision Forums • View topic - RPi e60 M5/530/545 Ram Air Intake Installation Instructions
- thanks RPI

Block off plates: Race Precision Forums • View topic - E60/E63 Ram Air Box - Block Off Plate/Plug Installation
- thanks RPI

Scoops/filters (aFe):
- thanks [email protected]

Oil cooler: Race Precision Forums • View topic - RPi M5 Oil Cooler Install Instructions
- thanks RPI

DME/ECU removal: Race Precision Forums • View topic - E60 M5 DME/ECU Removal Instructions
- thanks RPI

Sprint booster install: BMW Sprint Booster Installation - Bavarian Autosport - YouTube
- thanks Fumanstu (reference thread:

Pulley install: Race Precision Forums • View topic - RPi Pulley Kit Installation - M5/M6
- thanks RPIpower (reference thread:

Spring install 1 (front/rear for E63):
- thanks survyor2 (E63 forum)

Spring install 2:
- thanks ktan

Spring install 3:
- thanks stunt

Spring install 4:
- thanks supark

Bolt replacement after spring install:
- thanks V10PWR

SMG Euro software reprogram:
- thanks Vodyk for expertise and BB8888 for DIY summary (reference thread:

Nitrous Oxide (NOS) controller wiring:
- thanks rocket5979

Short-throw shifter install:
- thanks Infamous Q

Headlight height adjustment [pics dead]:
- thanks Kegger and jseter

Headlight removal/replacement: BMW E60 angel eyes replacement installation right side - YouTube
- thanks m5Dreamin (reference thread:

Angel eye/daytime running light replacement: Quick replace of the daytime running lamp - BMW 5 series - YouTube
- thanks mdyaman

Taillight removal/replacement: DIY LCI taillight retrofit - 5 Series Forums
- thanks mdyaman (reference thread:

Kidney grill removal:
- thanks avlynch

Side grill removal: How to remove e60 M5 side vent - YouTube
- thanks wstxoutlaw (reference thread:

Roundel replacement: Product Installation Tutorial: BMW Roundel Upgrades - YouTube
- thanks Jlevi_SW (reference thread:

Painting brake calipers:
- thanks zerocks1 (E63 forum)

Replace lower side mirror cover:
- thanks ///Pete

LED side turn signal:
- thanks V10PWR

LED side turn signal_2:
- thanks [email protected]_SW

All red tail lights:
- thanks MTV10

LED license plate lights:
- thanks V10PWR

Door pathway/puddle light upgrade:
- thanks Tottifan

Remove airbag warnings from visor [no pics]:
- thanks Wolverine

Interior trim carbon fiber wrap (pre LCI):
- thanks Jlevi SW

Aluminum pedals:
- thanks ttribe

Shift knob replacement (6MT):
- thanks OldM6guy (E63 forum)

E-brake handle replacement:
- thanks OldM6guy (E63 forum)

Steering wheel trim replacement:
- thanks Clyde (E63 forum)

Steering wheel trim replacement 2: Removal & fitting of E60 lower trim cover - MY MOTIV BMW
- thanks rittiman (reference thread:

SMG shift paddle replacement:
- thanks Clyde (E63 forum)

SMG plate removal/replacement:
- thanks petesamprs

Squeaky side bolster repair:
- thanks CBarton and OzMosis

Heads-Up Display height adjustment: BMW E60 Heads Up Display Adjustment
- thanks Turner Motorsports

Cupholder removal/replacement: BMW, Cup Holder, Can Holder, Replacement, DIY Do It Yourself and Save Money E60 5 Series - YouTube
- thanks mdyaman

Steering wheel restoration:
- thanks SoCaLE39

Thigh Support Extension Motor Repair:
- thanks rt7085

V1 hardwire (tap passenger footwell cigarette lighter) + Concealed display:
- thanks rlpM5

V1 hardwire (tap sunroof wiring): radardet - 5 Series Forums

Coding/software tweaks [E60 forum]:
- thanks bowtie17

Coding/software tweaks 2 [E63 forum]:
- thanks zerocks1

Laser jammer install:
- thanks Gustav

iPod MOST adapter:
- thanks mcw331

Auxiliary input install (for early model E60s):
- thanks bimma328

Center channel speaker replacement (E63):
- thanks whatheheck and KILLZBUGZ (reference thread:

Diversity antenna amplifier replacement: Diversity Amplifier Replacement - - Forums
- thanks mdyaman

2010 CIC install (updated NAV):
- thanks stunt

E60 M5 aftersales manual:

Alignment specs:
- thanks bmw1986

Torque tightening specs (NOTE: this is for older BMWs; may not apply for E60/S85 engine in all cases):
- thanks mdyaman

Fuse Diagram (E63):
- thanks Clyde and whatheheck (E63 forum)

Check control messages (E92):
- thanks mdyaman

Access hidden NAV menu:
- thanks scoopz

Wiring diagram (general E60): WDS BMW Wiring Diagram System - 5 E60 E61

Find a local indy: BMW Repair Shops- Find a BMW Mechanic |

Owner’s manual: Owner's Manual - BMW North America

Find part numbers: RealOEM or Penske Parts

DISCLAIMER: In most cases these DIYs are not written by professionals. Undertake these projects at your own risk.
Great thread thank you. Is there. Header DIY Install anywhere? Or maybe one we can add?

185 Posts
Best thread on any forum ever. This one gives and gives and gives. Thanks to the OP and all contributors since.
61 - 80 of 101 Posts