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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Has anyone done this before? I remember seeing a diy thread on this and cant seem to find it. Doe anyone know where i can find a "how to" ?

Also, how can I verify if i need to replace my clutch? just want to make sure before i dig into it....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks but that's not the one I saw before... I seen this one but it not it. Couldn't seem to find it in the DIY thread. Anyhow I was able to get a BMW "how to" which I can attach here later. I've already started taking her appart.
 

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Both. You don't want to lose the orientation the factory sets both discs to. They must balance them. The new one comes with straps around the discs so they don't move. When you take an old one out and are going to reuse it, you still want to maintain the 2 discs orientation and not rearrange them. The Sachs instructions on a new one says if they get moved, don't install the clutch. I have the tool but Jim Colley is using right now. Bimmerzone rents the clutch tool and the flywheel lock for 50.00. You also need the deep or long neck T60 socket/tool for the fly wheel bolts. Those torque at 105nm. That's about it on special tools. That clutch tool not only keeps the discs in place but also aligns them to center so your tranny shaft slides back in place through the clutch discs and the tip into the pilot bearing. I changed that out too. You need a blind hole puller for that.

Edit: I found the Sachs instructions
 

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I got the clutch tool on ebay and saw one there recently. The FW lock, Vincent got it for me (Bimmerzone). Now I had already bought the clutch tool before I got to know Vincent and put him on to the clutch tool as he was sourcing the clutches for us. He then bought one so people could rent it when they bought a clutch. Vincent can get a new one for you I bet. They are about 300.00 if I remember on ebay.
Bill

Here is a picture of the FW locking tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok..so i need to get the clutch tool i have everything else. Friggen bmw here (woodbridge,ontario canada) will not sell me the tool. Where can ai get it ? I have everything apart already..??
 

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The latest revision of the CRB has a nylon or delrin plastic inner race and no grease is desired. If you have the new version, the answer is "none". The delrin is prepreg with teflon and grease will only trap clutch dust and increase wear.

If you have the older style, most any lithium grease will meet or exceed the requirements of the Esso Unirex S-2 specified in TIS. The bearing itself is pre-greased, but TIS specifies contact points between the release fork to CRB and release fork to ball pivot and slave piston face be greased as well.

Most CRBs that come out will show some wear/galling on the metal CRB flat (keyed) sides to the release fork.

The redesigned CRB has two raised dimples on the keyed flats to align the flats and prevent galling due to rotational misalignment, again in delrin, so no grease recommended.
 

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Well, in the absence of any better DIY resource here for a clutch replacement, i'll add this thread to the master DIY.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Whats the difference between the brass ball pin and the white one from bmw? Which is better?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Red Line Synthetic Oil - Grease and Assembly Lube - CV-2 Grease WILL THIS WORK??


The latest revision of the CRB has a nylon or delrin plastic inner race and no grease is desired. If you have the new version, the answer is "none". The delrin is prepreg with teflon and grease will only trap clutch dust and increase wear.

If you have the older style, most any lithium grease will meet or exceed the requirements of the Esso Unirex S-2 specified in TIS. The bearing itself is pre-greased, but TIS specifies contact points between the release fork to CRB and release fork to ball pivot and slave piston face be greased as well.

Most CRBs that come out will show some wear/galling on the metal CRB flat (keyed) sides to the release fork.

The redesigned CRB has two raised dimples on the keyed flats to align the flats and prevent galling due to rotational misalignment, again in delrin, so no grease recommended.
 

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Here are some pics of the CRB old and new Jim was talking about..

Old:




New: (as of 10/2012 via parts)




You can see the new style has the plastic inner race compared to the old metal race..

Its a shame bmw updated this part years after the end of production, could save alot of people headaches.. Not sure exactly how many issues r related to just this part, but im guessing it plays a major role in smoothness more so then a failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I got the one with the black plastic race.. BUT ALSO the plastic race could overheat and crack under heat or aggressive clutching.
 
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