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Hello, I am new to this board, I live in the deep country in Texas and have no one I can trust to work on my M5 that is not more than 3 hours away. I was a technician many years ago, I am now retired from that field with the exception of me working on my cars.

I have an E60 M5 that ran like a champ, I also had actuators (idle and throttle) along with other items, like underdrive pulley, fuel pump, t-stat in stock so if something went wrong I would have it all covered, so I thought.

The vehicle turned off on me as I was driving it home and never restarted again. i got it home and started diagnosing why it shut off, I have INPA but in German and I do not know German. one of the codes that came up was for crank sensor. I replaced the sensor and it still would not start, I then tried to find out further why it would not start and have come up empty handed, now I forgot to mention I live in the country and found MANY mice in the car about 12 or more and I have exterminated them. I wonder if they chewed on a wire, but I do not see any problems with wiring, (i could have missed it) I replaced all the items mentioned I had in case something happened and nothing. VH did turn on once and sounded real bad, no rod knocks or anything like that. It has been a few months I have had it sitting in my property and would like to know if someone could help me find out what is wrong with the VH so I can start enjoying it again.

any input will be appreciated.
Thank you

these are the codes I get, sorry it's not too clear
Computer Personal computer Font Gadget Technology
 

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Does the engine turn? Is the starter working while you try to start the car?
 
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Based on your story I'd triple check the engine harness.

Being a tech it should be easy for you to check basics right? Fuel and spark. If both are missing then check crank sensor again. If only fuel or spark is missing then focus on that area. You've fuel pressure, crank sensor and misfire codes. My completely random.guess is the crank sensor again. Pull the sensor out and make sure the flywheel teeth are not damaged in any way. From there work your way to the ecu. You prob are familiar with a shop scope so check the sensor signal too.
 

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I'd bet your fuel pump let go, mine did earlier this year and got the same pressure drop issues. That or the EKP has gone bad, but that's a rarer occurrence. I'm in Texas as well, PM me if you want some help troubleshooting it. I can give you a copy of ISTA if you have a decent internet connection.
 

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Have you tried to delete the fault and see what fault comes back?.
Does the gear shift lever light's up when you put ignition ON?.
The SMG has fault 4F20 which is related to nvram, I think this fault will stop the SMG ECU from functioning, another reason to prevent engine from starting beside the crankshaft sensor missing signal.

Access the DME and the SMG ECU's and read faults from there and post the details of every fault. Looking for a clue and to confirm if mice deserved what they got.

For crankshaft sensor I would test if both wires have continuity to corresponding pins at the DME connector.
Some generic new sensor may not work either. Fault

27CF Fuel pressure build-up EKP supply, need to access DME>status>Analog>I/O1 scroll all the way down to view fuel pressure value, you want to put ignition on to read value. If it reads pressure leave it until car start to test fuel pressure with software. If it reads over 6.5 bar you may have clogged filter or bad pump,

2AFB Intake air temperature sensor bank 1
2AFC intake air temperature sensor bank 2
Also access DME>status>Analog>I/O1, you should be able to see ambient air temperature values at top lines I believe. If negative values are present or no voltage may be linked to mice, confirm MAF's connectors are installed.

27D6 Right tank sender electrical error.
Access INPA main menu>Body>instrument cluster>status>Analog you should read both fuel level sensor values, or what is the status of sensor 1?.

Post fault details with these checks then we might conclude something or plane for next move. Post images.
 
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