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Thanks for the information. Replaced my alternator on my 2007 M6. Notes were spot on, including that darn accumulator; had it not been for that, I would have been done in three hours. Thanks again for taking the time to document the swap. Definitely recommend puling from underneath. I did not take the fan, or shroud off. Had plenty of room. Have a big screwdriver handy to help pry the alternator loose. Thanks again, saved me $1500.
 

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Thanks to all the previous posters for the tips. Just got this done in ~1hr on a lift (home DIYer, not a pro). Was getting all the "possessed" warnings and electrical shut-downs over the last few months. ECU had recorded about 18 faults, most of which indicated voltage issues.

As others mentioned, I did this underneath without removing the fan or radiator. Some additional tips:

- Wiggling the accumulator out of the bracket is the best way to get to the top bolts of the bracket
- When putting the accumulator BACK in, I put the top bracket back into the tabs then threaded the long M6 bolts in a turn or two
- Spray the accumulator rubber housing with WD-40 and it will slip into the bracket with hardly any effort
- To undo the electrical connections on the back of the alt, I removed both bolts and rotated the whole alt so the connectors were pointing down. Much easier to get to.
- Be prepared to bend the PS cooler line a bit to get the clearance needed to pull the alternator out. It's tight but doable.

Got a new Valeo from an ebay supplier for under $300
 

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Thanks to all the previous posters for the tips. Just got this done in ~1hr on a lift (home DIYer, not a pro). Was getting all the "possessed" warnings and electrical shut-downs over the last few months. ECU had recorded about 18 faults, most of which indicated voltage issues.

As others mentioned, I did this underneath without removing the fan or radiator. Some additional tips:

- Wiggling the accumulator out of the bracket is the best way to get to the top bolts of the bracket
- When putting the accumulator BACK in, I put the top bracket back into the tabs then threaded the long M6 bolts in a turn or two
- Spray the accumulator rubber housing with WD-40 and it will slip into the bracket with hardly any effort
- To undo the electrical connections on the back of the alt, I removed both bolts and rotated the whole alt so the connectors were pointing down. Much easier to get to.
- Be prepared to bend the PS cooler line a bit to get the clearance needed to pull the alternator out. It's tight but doable.

Got a new Valeo from an ebay supplier for under $300
is that OEM for under $300? Can you link to seller? Mine has 40k on it and I need to do mine...or its the voltage reg. Getting all the crazy malfunctions and battery charging malfunctions.
 

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Thanks to all the previous posters for the tips. Just got this done in ~1hr on a lift (home DIYer, not a pro). Was getting all the "possessed" warnings and electrical shut-downs over the last few months. ECU had recorded about 18 faults, most of which indicated voltage issues.

As others mentioned, I did this underneath without removing the fan or radiator. Some additional tips:

- Wiggling the accumulator out of the bracket is the best way to get to the top bolts of the bracket
- When putting the accumulator BACK in, I put the top bracket back into the tabs then threaded the long M6 bolts in a turn or two
- Spray the accumulator rubber housing with WD-40 and it will slip into the bracket with hardly any effort
- To undo the electrical connections on the back of the alt, I removed both bolts and rotated the whole alt so the connectors were pointing down. Much easier to get to.
- Be prepared to bend the PS cooler line a bit to get the clearance needed to pull the alternator out. It's tight but doable.

Got a new Valeo from an ebay supplier for under $300
is that OEM for under $300? Can you link to seller? Mine has 40k on it and I need to do mine...or its the voltage reg. Getting all the crazy malfunctions and battery charging malfunctions.

A little weary doing this as I haven't done much work on the M5 myself....but if its a DIY a average joe can do then I'll attempt.
 

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is that OEM for under $300? Can you link to seller? Mine has 40k on it and I need to do mine...or its the voltage reg. Getting all the crazy malfunctions and battery charging malfunctions.

A little weary doing this as I haven't done much work on the M5 myself....but if its a DIY a average joe can do then I'll attempt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valeo-439559-Alternator-for-11262-12888-12-31-7-834-160-12-31-7-836-592-fo/292535953751?epid=112747860&hash=item441c806957:g:Z3YAAOSwjvxbQHxj:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!27519!US!-1&_sacat=0&_nkw=Valeo+439559&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC1.A0.H0.XValeo+439559.TRS5.TSS5

Looks like they raised the price $5 since last week. It's not a BMW branded OEM, but Valeo is the OEM supplier. My old alt was identical to the new one. except for the label which does not have a BMW part number on it. FYI mine started acting up at 65k miles.

You can also search for Valeo 439559. There's a seller on Amazon also under $300 after shipping.

If you've done any major mechanical work on a car requiring "persuasion" of things with a prybar, you can handle this. It was not as hard as I expected it to be. Follow the excellent post on the prior page with the engine pictures.
 

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valeo-439559-Alternator-for-11262-12888-12-31-7-834-160-12-31-7-836-592-fo/292535953751?epid=112747860&hash=item441c806957:g:Z3YAAOSwjvxbQHxj:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!27519!US!-1&_sacat=0&_nkw=Valeo+439559&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC1.A0.H0.XValeo+439559.TRS5.TSS5

Looks like they raised the price $5 since last week. It's not a BMW branded OEM, but Valeo is the OEM supplier. My old alt was identical to the new one. except for the label which does not have a BMW part number on it. FYI mine started acting up at 65k miles.

You can also search for Valeo 439559. There's a seller on Amazon also under $300 after shipping.

If you've done any major mechanical work on a car requiring "persuasion" of things with a prybar, you can handle this. It was not as hard as I expected it to be. Follow the excellent post on the prior page with the engine pictures.
great, thanks! Did the volt regulator come on the alt you bought? I bought one separate thinking I'd just swap that out...but now I'm thinking about just doing the alt altogether.
 

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great, thanks! Did the volt regulator come on the alt you bought? I bought one separate thinking I'd just swap that out...but now I'm thinking about just doing the alt altogether.
Yes it was a complete alternator. If you already have the VR, you might just want to pull the alt and swap that out. I'd still get the whole alternator out and on the bench to do that.
 

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Yes it was a complete alternator. If you already have the VR, you might just want to pull the alt and swap that out. I'd still get the whole alternator out and on the bench to do that.
well if the alt comes with a VR then I'd have the extra one. I wouldn't need to swap the VR as the new alt would take care of replacing the alt and VR it comes with correct?
 

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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valeo-439559-Alternator-for-11262-12888-12-31-7-834-160-12-31-7-836-592-fo/292535953751?epid=112747860&hash=item441c806957:g:Z3YAAOSwjvxbQHxj:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!27519!US!-1&_sacat=0&_nkw=Valeo+439559&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC1.A0.H0.XValeo+439559.TRS5.TSS5

Looks like they raised the price $5 since last week. It's not a BMW branded OEM, but Valeo is the OEM supplier. My old alt was identical to the new one. except for the label which does not have a BMW part number on it. FYI mine started acting up at 65k miles.

You can also search for Valeo 439559. There's a seller on Amazon also under $300 after shipping.

If you've done any major mechanical work on a car requiring "persuasion" of things with a prybar, you can handle this. It was not as hard as I expected it to be. Follow the excellent post on the prior page with the engine pictures.
I entered the M5 specs to see if this part will fit our cars and it came back with a "no" lol....

I need to do mine as I knew it was going (or volt reg) and got the reg cog and tranny started going nuts jerking into/out of gear and eventually the car stalled at the busiest intersection by my house....perfect lol. Had to have a buddy run down and park infront of me at the intersection with jumper cables attached (20 mins) to charge the battery enough to make a dash home
 

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Thanks for this writeup! Came in handy when we were getting some voltage errors and helped me diagnose the alternator had died.
 

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how the heck did you guys get the belt off the alternator? The tensioner bolt only moves like 1/2" and barely gives you any slack. I'm afraid I tried using a long flat head but barely can get it to lift up and won't slide off...Im afraid I'm going to booger up the belt using a long flat head on it to pry it off
 

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Bump. Any tips for getting the belt off the alt/getting more slack? I’m assuming turning the nut to the right is the only way to release tension...it just barely releases much.
 

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First I was using a socket but it kept slipping off and I didnt want to round the corners off so I went to a spanner wrench.

Am I correct in that it’s just the (tensioner) nut you turn? That nut barely turns and barely puts slack in the belt.

Should I be taking the belt off the “tensioner nut pulley” first and instead of just taking the belt directly off the alternator?

Sucks only having one pair of hands...tough to use one hand constant pressure on the tensioner nut and only one hand to try and work the belt off
 

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I’m aware of the pulley nut (tensioner nut) to turn. I’m saying it barely creates any slack...and was trying to keep pressure on the nut while slipping the belt off the alternator but there was just not enough slack. Are you supposed to take the belt off around the tensioner pulley first to free up slack and then alternator?
 

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I’m aware of the pulley nut (tensioner nut) to turn. I’m saying it barely creates any slack...and was trying to keep pressure on the nut while slipping the belt off the alternator but there was just not enough slack. Are you supposed to take the belt off around the tensioner pulley first to free up slack and then alternator?
14mm on a breaker bar does the trick.
 

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good idea on the breaker bar....would probably have to do that from the top bc you need the room. That will make it easier to hold the nut turned to release tension...but wont give more slack.
 
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