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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi
After idling about ~5min and accelerating there isnt like any power, not even enough to spin the tires at 1st gear. Then driving about 5kilometers on highway and accelerating again its much better, but still isnt good enough

Codes i got from carly
000016 - “Exhaust camshaft VANOS advance valve, Cyl #1-4”

000009 - “Knock sensor, Cyl #1-2”

FF - “Exhaust camshaft VANOS sealing, Cyl #5-8”

Secondary air system. Flow rate too low (bank2)

Radiator fan. Short to ground (visco fan is working, climate fan isnt)


This could be caused by vanos according to first three codes? Can vanos not working correctly but up knock sensor code? And after driving on highway the acceleration gets better?

Last year these parts were changed (5000km ago max)
07.22 fuel pressure regulator
6.22 radiator
08.21 fuel pump (Pierburg)
08.21 2x pre cat lambda (Bosch)
08.21 8x spark plugs NGK BKR6EQUP
08.21 Vcg seals + bolt seals
08.21 all vacuum hoses (OEM)
08.21 2x MAFs (Bosch)
08.21 2x CPS (exhaust)
08.21 knock sensor cyl 1-4 (Bosch)
07.21 8x ignition coils (Bremi)
06.21 fuel filter (Mann)
 

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Can vanos not working correctly but up knock sensor code?
Vanos not working messes up tons of things. Aside from the fan code ignore all the other codes until you deal with the VANOs codes. The fan is a separate issue and not related to any of your other codes, and depending on how well your mechanical fan works might have little affect, but fix it as your second priority.
The vanos needs to be fixed and should be the highest priority, even higher than driving the car. Deal with the knock sensors after as they may not be an issue, and I would have some questions about what you replaced and the other thing is knock sensor code reports the codes incorrectly so I need to look that up, 2 are swapped IIRC. Might just be with Peake so what are you reading the codes with?
You have 2 vanos codes one is either the wiring or the board (16) and the other most likely is in the board but has also been triggered by a leaking vanos piston for that cam (FF). You still do the boards first because every car needs the boards done if they have not been cleaned. I will give you a DIY thread but go to the main DIY thread and read all the vanos threads including how to get the boards out. Pay attention to the thread/post dates, as the later ones are more updated info. Things have changed since we first started.
Your main job is to clean them inside and out and then get them working electrically.
Just going to make a comment, you might note that both of these codes are on the shafts that you replaced the CPS on. That does not mean there are no problems on the intakes, it might mean that the intake CPS are so bad the DME can't even figure out what is going on, you should replace those CPS also unless they are of the new design and updated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Im using carly obd2 scanner to read codes
Gonna run vanos test tomorrow and then probably ordering vanos rebuild kit and intake cps-s.

Is it possible that cam timing is lil bit off and thats why power loss also? If cam timing is off should it throw some fault code for it?
 

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Is it possible that cam timing is lil bit off and thats why power loss also? If cam timing is off should it throw some fault code for it?
That is a mechanical inspection but the VANOs test will say so but only if the solenoids are working perfect. After you have the solenoids done run the test again and your results might warrant inspection. The main tensioner also plays a role so you want it working correctly. Unless the the timing was set wrong in the factory or someone opened it and did something wrong the timing can not be out that much and the CPS and VANOs can adjust it correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Well the mechanic said that bank 1 vanos was off about 6-7 degees
Ordered 16 vanos o rings and 2 cover plate gaskets (oem, shipping time 1-2 weeks compared to dr vanos 3-4weeks) is there any difference between oem and drvanos? And also ordered new climate fan, the old ones electrical block or something didnt work anymore.

And today got another code 00008C (engine noise too high) and the knock sensor code wasnt there anymore.
According to this thread Help with interpreting Fault Codes outputted by Carly on...
This guy had basically the same codes, although he had bank 2 (code 53) - Exhaust camshaft VANOS advance valve, Cyl #5-8. (bank 1 code is 16, which i had). And someone there said
If I remember correctly, code 53 is an electrical issue with the VANOS circuit board
And the new 8C code i got today the same guy commented :
The 8C Engine noise too high code I think is knock sensor related. But I would think you'd get a knock sensor code along with that as well. Unless the knock sensor is picking up the loudness from the Vanos. Which being a 2000 car could be a possibility.
My car is also 2000, unfortunately there wasnt any updates in that thread after he got suggested to do the vanos boards and o rings.

At the moment didnt order intake cps-s, gonna do the boards, o rings and climate fan first and see the results. Keep you updated

//edit
Is there any need to order other vanos seals also, when already doing it? Beisan Vanos repair/seal kit BMW S62 :: Race.Fi
There seems to be more o rings in the beisan kit.

And theres also this kit Beisan single Vanos rattle rings BMW S62 :: Race.Fi
Theres a lil bit vanos noise on my car i guess, so should also order these aswell?
 

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Well the mechanic said that bank 1 vanos was off about 6-7 degees
He might have said that but without opening the engine he can't tell if the static timing is out or if the timing fault was caused by the vanos hydraulics.
Get OEM orings, they are the only ones that are the correct shape. If you search and read a little more you will find they are not O-rings but D-rings.

Just start with the boards the Beisan kits are for more serious problems and require much deeper surgery. The rattle you hear, more than likely is the piston rapping the cover due to lack of oil, but I am not there. Get the boards working then we can figure out what is causing your rattle or where the rattle is from.

More than likely you have an electrical failure on the small board for that solenoid, maybe one where the large wires from that board joins the main board. Those failures are likely caused by a slow moving pintle within the solenoid causing more electricity to flow through the system, that is why you do everything in the thread I gave you. Yes more than likely that rattle is what your knock sensors are picking up but because they are coming from the front of the engine and not from the cylinder the knock sensor can't figure out what is going on and throws a code.
I guess I needed to be clearer, don't run the engine until you fix this.
You should check your intake CPS minimum to find if they are the old design or new design. If they are old replace ASAP, the issue is a timeout that happens but no codes are thrown. I don't have time to explain it all, but will say often when CPS are replaced to the new design cars instantly get codes for the vanos, not because they caused the problem just the old did not report the problem, yes it includes things that cause further rattle.
Read some vanos threads from 2010 - 2014 when we were figuring things out. Be aware that things we said in 2010 might have been further refined by 2014, so they might have been wrong assumptions to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Roger that, will only drive to mechanic when parts arrive (20km)
Can't you just pull the boards and deliver him the boards. Have you printed out the instructions so he can read them? Most mechanics don't do this job correctly especially when it comes to the soldering, some do great though. It does work better if you can do this yourself and ask questions as you go.
 

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If you have confidence that is all that matters. The key points are cleaning, which is best judged by the sound they make. Even though nothing more comes out if the click is quieter or deadened then more needs to come out so they need to be soaked over night or replaced.
The soldering is hardest for most, the old solder must be removed and a little flux used to resolder not just the solder with rosin. You have to neutralize the flux after with alcohol. Bridging is helpful but not required.
Make sure he reads the whole thread because some of the initial stuff is not quite right but is clarified later in the thread.
 
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