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Discussion Starter #1
As a husband and wife team, we purchased a 2002 Titanium Silver M5 on August 26th and we thought it would be fun to document our maintenance, repairs and restoration of the car. As a background, the husband has some experience working on cars while the wife is eager to learn! The car is in good shape for its age and mileage of roughly 126k. It was a daily driver for a while but recently has not been driven much. We just ordered a Peake code reader as well.

We took it for a PPI and they said the following things would be good to address:

Oil Change (done below)
Wiper Blades (doesn't rain much here but will get to it soon)
AC belt is worn (will diy soon)
Water Pump looks like its may need to be replaced (have been told by some may need to replace the whole cooling system in that case)
Flex Disk is cracked
Cabin air filters (they looked fine to us but we can diy if we need to)
Valve cover gaskets (will diy at some point, but the car appears to not leak any fluids and its parked in the same spot each day and one was done about 20k ago)
Rear Main seal (was told this may reseat given the car was rarely driven lately and if this does need to be replaced may do the clutch too, which still feels great)
Power Steering hoses are said to leak so we will monitor the fluid levels

The previous seller changed the transmission and differential fluid around 115k miles and the spark plugs around 110k miles so we have some time before that routine maintenance will be needed again. Brake Fluid was changed at the 100k service

Work done so far:

The second day of ownership the fuel pump failed so we had that and the fuel filter replaced and took the opportunity to get an oil change then as well. Not the best start as that looks like a reasonable DIY job but given we had the car towed to the shop and needed to get it back out on the road we did not have another option.

New rear tires- Michelin Pilot Sport 4s

Project List:

Fill in/ repair paint chips on hood and buff out various scratches
Figure out a way to do bluetooth whether it is with stock head unit or aftermarket such as a Dynavin
Replace AC belt
Replace Expansion Tank Cap
Coolant Flush - i dont see a record of this having been done and it does not look like it was done at 100k
Replace flex shaft
Replace Valve Covers
Replace power steering hoses
Replace water pump

We can't wait to detail our journey with the car and hope that we can both learn and teach by doing so. Please if anyone has any comments or advice we are all ears. Also we have an instagram: @mu5adventures so feel free to follow!

And now for some pics:
 

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You might also want to consider replacing the 2 MAF sensors, 4 CPS and 2 TPS. I replaced these just a few months ago on my 2003 with 114K miles and the car is running much better since.
 

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If the CPS and MAFS are original, I definitely agree with Garry. At that mileage, consider replacing the radiator and the fan clutch as well. I assume the O2 sensors were changed at 100K (although I change the pre-cat O2 sensors every 50K miles). Do you have many maintenance records?

Welcome!
 

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I'm also in LA and just picked up your car's twin (albeit a 2003 with 80k miles)!

Mine came with pretty good maintenance records but I just replaced MAF's and have Pre-cat O2 sensors on the way. MAFs made a big difference in low rpm responsiveness for me. Hoping for similar level of improvement with the O2 sensors.

Enjoy in good health and I look forward to you documenting your restoration!
 

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If you need any help feel free to PM me.
 

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If the CPS and MAFS are original, I definitely agree with Garry. At that mileage, consider replacing the radiator and the fan clutch as well. I assume the O2 sensors were changed at 100K (although I change the pre-cat O2 sensors every 50K miles). Do you have many maintenance records?

Welcome!
Good point about the O2 sensors. I also replaced all 4 O2 sensors shortly after I got the car. Haven't replaced the radiator yet but will probably do that very soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is great. We will add the radiator to the list. The car did come with a decent set of records from the prior owner who bought the car at 86,701 miles

The CPS were replaced at 111k
R side valve cover gaskets were replaced at 105k (the receipt refers to this as bank 1) but the PPI said that both should be replaced so we will get to it at some point.
O2 sensors have not been replaced as the previous owner said it never failed smog but it seems many on the forum recommend replacing the pre-cat sensors.
MAFs were cleaned 5k ago so I will probably wait on those for a bit longer.

The code reader came yesterday so we will take a look to see what it says tonight.
 

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This is great. We will add the radiator to the list. The car did come with a decent set of records from the prior owner who bought the car at 86,701 miles

The CPS were replaced at 111k
R side valve cover gaskets were replaced at 105k (the receipt refers to this as bank 1) but the PPI said that both should be replaced so we will get to it at some point.
O2 sensors have not been replaced as the previous owner said it never failed smog but it seems many on the forum recommend replacing the pre-cat sensors.
MAFs were cleaned 5k ago so I will probably wait on those for a bit longer.

The code reader came yesterday so we will take a look to see what it says tonight.
The collective experience of the board is that cleaning the MAFS usually results in a temporary improvement (I've never tried it). If your MAFS truly have 85K on them, you might notice a welcome improvement in performance by replacing them. Or not...I replaced mine at 60K just for kicks and didn't really notice much. If the O2 sensor have not been replaced, I'd definitely at least do the pre-cat ones. The post-cat sensors can wait until 100k miles or longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Finally got a chance to use the code reader and based on the advice of members in the Peake codes thread we cleared the codes and then re-scanned them. Prior to resetting we had several but the only one that has remained is 35, the electronic fan (relay). We suspect some other codes that initially came up will re-appear so we will check again over the next few days. Fortunately the car seems to remain cool so and drives now are not very far so this does not seem to be an urgent repair.

For those reading, any advice on which projects to try and tackle first? Looks like O2 sensors and MAFs are relatively straightforward but am wondering if there is anything that looks like it needs to be addressed asap in anyone's opinion.
 

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For those reading, any advice on which projects to try and tackle first? Looks like O2 sensors and MAFs are relatively straightforward but am wondering if there is anything that looks like it needs to be addressed asap in anyone's opinion.

Replace the timing chain tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The CEL came on a couple days ago but fortunately just showed two codes:

35 which it had before and e8, the evap purge valve.

Neither of these things seem super urgent to fix no?
 

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The fan relay could mean your ‘pusher’ fan is in the way out - the electric fan by radiator...

They are PWM controlled and being situated where they are, tend to get water ingress into the electronics, frying them over time. If your in a warm climate this is used by the AC to help drive air over the evaporator.

Worth checking your brakes for corrosion, even wear etc as a PM. The sliders especially on the front can get sticky and cause uneven wear. While your under there, sway bar brackets getting broken is a classic ‘e39 M5 with miles’ issue - they are aluminium and get weaker with age it seems, though they were a bit inadequate to begin with. I replaced mine with steel BMW ones from another model.

Hoping being in LA means your car has minimal rust issues - becoming an issue now for us living in more variable climates...

Chain tensioner as someone else mentioned - due now if not already done and a bit of insurance against chain guide breakage.

Otherwise just drive it, enjoy it and see what happens :)


Simon
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This weekend we took the plunge and installed an Xtrons unit in the Mu5. I daily drive it and the 6 cd's in the changer were getting quite old and I have heard all the pop songs on the radio about 50 too many times so we decided it was time to upgrade the stereo. We ordered an Xtrons PB7839BP and the related equipment- the Resler interface, the fakra extensions for the nav and the radio antenna and the cable that connects to the existing radio harness in the trunk. We also ordered the OBD II bluetooth device. Below I will post some pictures of the install but to start it is so far a vast improvement over stock. The sound is better, the nav is better, I can access any song I would like at anytime and I can see many of the car's engine parameters in real time on the screen as I drive around. The install is hard and took us the better part of the weekend, most of which is taking the car and trunk interior apart and putting it back together. I will have more thoughts as I get more used to the unit, but lets look at some pictures.

Step 1: Remove the rear seat - this comes out with a firm tug up. Also need to remove the back rests, which have two bolts on each side and then it slides up.



Step 2. Prep the trunk:



Note the cables go through the pass through here:





Step 3: Disassemble the dash glove box first, then take out trim and lower the dash. You also need to remove the dead pedal and the dash under the steering wheel to run the wires.




 

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Discussion Starter #16
More photos of the dash disassembly:







To run the wires you need to remove the moldings that go over the carpet. For the one near the rear seat there is a bolt which you will remove to remove the seat back anyway and the one in the front seat comes up with a sharp tug.





Step 4: Hook up wires in the trunk- remove the nav, cd changer and radio. The large cable goes to the harness that was in the radio, the fakra cables hook up to the nav antenna and the radio antenna:





Step 6: Prepare the resler interface. Cut off the extra connector on the radio harness and solder it in. Make sure you follow the correct color scheme.





After this, run the cables under the carpet on the side of the doors, under the steering column and into the radio area, hook everything up and test it out:

 

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Discussion Starter #17
And of course the final product:



Its a long but worthwhile project. There are a lot of screws to remove and the disasembly and reassembly are quite a puzzle but if you stay organized and try to take photos as you go, it will be fine. The other threads on this were really helpful so anyone who comes across this is more than welcome to reach out. I am happy to answer any questions.

Next steps- one of my M Audio subs is blown. Any ideas for replacements?
 

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Also not seeing photos.
 
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