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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all!
I have a few concerns if anyone can help me out with any of their advice if this has happened to them!!

Friends have told me while driving behind my car that they smelled rich exhaust... I have an issue with a knock sensor and a engine light that comes on and off... but I'm wondering if it can be related to the Carbon build up....
the car averages consumption of oil about half a liter to a full liter every 6000 to 7000 kilometres..
Normal?
My M5 is a may 2000 production and already has the upgraded piston rings.

Could it be I just don't beat the car enough?
I also feel the car lacks a bit of power. Maybe a fuel injector cleaning with the intake cleaning should be Done?...
Should I pass a can of sea foam to try getting the internals of the gas lines/engine and intake cleaned out or could the knock sensor be giving me lack of power?
The car presently has 184300KM and I always put shell 91 V Power since I have been the owner.


Going back to the knock sensor code... it has happened on a few occasions that I've been pushing the car in sport mode, traction is on and there are times the car would jerk due to the traction cutting the power. After this has happened the car fell into a limp mode.. check engine on but not flashing. Shut of the car. Turn it back on and as if nothing happened.. defective knock sensor?

I'm using a generic scanner and codes are:
069 signal,knock sensor 3
170 secondary-air quantity too low (OBDl code P0411)
232 function check TEV (OBDll code P0440)

I have erased the codes and the only two codes that come back are for the knock sensor and the function check.

When I first purchased the car in June 2016 I had 3 codes with the check engine
Same knock sensor code
Same function check code

And the third code was 178 catalytic-converter conversion bank 1
(OBDl code P0420)

I've checked for these codes but haven't gathered much information.

If any of you know what could be going on, other info would help...
I went on a Road trip to water fest in New Jersey with the car, from Montreal Canada.
When I got to the boarder i erased the engine light.

The whole drive from the Plattsburgh border to English town New Jersey the engine light stayed off!!!
Car drove 700 km no problems
The Saturday after arriving is when I pushed the car with traction ingaged and then that's when it happened. Car fell into limp mode and engine light came on but not flashing.. this was a hard push from light rolling.

When the traction is off and I can burn rubber.. the car has 0 issues.... no hiccups no limp mode no jerking.
Maybe some of you will say leave the traction off... but I want to solve this if possible..


Thanks in advance.
 

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01 Carbon/Silverstone Exhaust: Jedders-HJS high flow cats-resonator delete-Xpipe-Eisenman cans
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None of those codes are causing the limp mode imo. What comes to mind is VANOS issue. I would expect MAFS to give a specific code.
VANOS may not. Do you have the maintenance history on the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I do have the history but nothing shows for anything vanos related... unfortunately.

Possible issue with the solenoid and the knock sensor could be coding for that reason?
 

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Well if standard VANOS maintenance has never been done on the car, I would definitely get that done. Look in the DIY sticky.
 

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First things first... Buy a Peake Reader or find someone local that has one to read the codes. For the 2000 model you will want the version that works with the round connector under the hood. It is on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

Also check coolant temp in the secret menu.

Post #11 here:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/1898-gadget-freaks-ii-fun-you-never-knew-you-could-have-secret-menu.html

Coolant temp is #7 in the secret menu. If your car is running cool (failed t-stat) it will run rich. Won't cause limp mode though.

Could be a failed O2 sensor too I suppose.
 

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First things first... Buy a Peake Reader or find someone local that has one to read the codes. For the 2000 model you will want the version that works with the round connector under the hood. It is on the passenger side of the engine compartment.

Also check coolant temp in the secret menu.

Post #11 here:
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/1898-gadget-freaks-ii-fun-you-never-knew-you-could-have-secret-menu.html

Coolant temp is #7 in the secret menu. If your car is running cool (failed t-stat) it will run rich. Won't cause limp mode though.

Could be a failed O2 sensor too I suppose.
I see where you are going but he is reporting 69 decimal not 69 hex, not likely temp related. That is a knock sensor code not a coolant code.
 

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You are using what code reader and what does it report the codes in? OBDII or decimal? Please be specific so I can look it up and see what other things it can do. Post what it says especially for the 069 because there are errors in some of the tables on which cylinders are at fault. 69 should be 1 and 2. Then again since Peake reports this incorrectly maybe our detective work was wrong here.

Ignore the 170 for the time being. The 232 should be looked at first. It is likely stuck open or the elbow that connects it to the idle control tubes is cracked, both are common. Part 17 in this diagram or 14 for the valve.
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog


Then again I am wondering if you bought that trouble red car. Salvage title cloth interior, think it was a US car originally but my memory is fuzzy on that point? If it is that car I will find my notes as I did a ton of tests on it. Last time I saw it, it lived west of Montreal, Como maybe. If that is the car it has several issues and I would start with replacing all of the vacuum lines, new plugs, fuel filter, CPS, TPS, MAFs and likely all 4 O2 sensors. Are you handy and capable of doing all this work yourself? Next you will need to do the Vanos board maintenance.

To answer something else don't waste any money on Seafoam it is witch oil and the carbon buildup for the 170 is not related to carbon in the engine, it is carbon in some passages and does not really effect the way the engine runs once warm.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
The scanner is a generic scanner that I had in the garage. It's printed on the hand held scanner MaxiDiag Elite. It usually used for obdll but when I tried scanning the car i had to put all the info in manually for some reason. I guess in order to read the codes.

I know which car you're talking about. Red ext tan interior with tan alcantara roof. VGA from the US. Hell of a nice combo Car was listed at 17500 and sold for 14 if not mistaken.

Mines not that car. My car actually comes from park avenue in the south shore of Montreal. Not that it really matters. But all the info I can give might help with anything.

My car is imola red with black leather interior.

As for the codes that came out.. what I wrote in the very first paragraph starting this thread is exactly how the codes appear on the screen.

Also, I can do some but not all work. Please tell me.. vanos board maintenance... is there pictures of what needs to be done so I can visually see what's going on.

If there is an example somewhere on this forum..

Thanks again
Hope this helps. Get back to me if anything.
 

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go here in the second or so post you will find links scroll down to vanos.
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/184940-do-yourself-diy-guidepost.html
The last link in vanos solenoids by bdsmitty is the most up to date but read right to the end as there are some corrections later in the thread.

Doing the vanos boards without having the updated CPS in the car is sort of a waste of time. You should check which CPS are in the car.

You should also do a MAF test
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/54788-how-test-mafs-yourself-how-mafs-work.html
That link is in this thread under engine.
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/62434-e39-m5-frequently-asked-questions-faq.html

Last or maybe first you need to evaluate the age of the O2 sensors. Old O2s make the car run rich. The best way to evaluate the age is look at the rubber that protects the wires. If there are threads exposed they are very old but if they are just a bit gray they are likely old. The rubber will stay blk blk for at least 4 or 5 years so if they are not black black they likely need changing.

Can you pull fuel trims with that scanner?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm not sure if I can do a fuel trim test or see what they are reading with this type of scanner. I do have another one that is more like a snap on scanner and could most probably do it all. We recently got at the garage.

Only thing is car is stored at the moment and is on top of a storage lift. Would be a little difficult to reach right now.

I personally do not think the crank position sensors have ever been done. As I do not have any receipts for them or history of them being done.
When you say the guide posts are you talking about the plastic pins that insert where the chain is? Maybe 2 or 4 of these? I'm unsure if that has been done either.

Don't you think perhaps the cps could be causing my issue for the car going into a limp mode?


And I don't think the mafs have ever been done. And I'm going to say a big maybe that the oxygen sensors were done once in the cars life time.

I had already thought about replacing them with Bosch aftermarket sensors from world PAC or autolectra. I think Bosch is the ones who make the sensors for BMW anyway.

This should correct my rich smell or the car running too rich. Gas does use up quickly but then again it is a v8 that has ****ty gas mileage in the city. Highway no problem what so ever.
 

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Sorry cps is cam not crank, think we call the crank CKPS here. Gas does get used up quickly rich or not. If you have a snap on then forget the MAF test just look at calc load. Should be 18-20% at idle and within a second or two 100% when you floor it. Fuel trims would help diag but if the O2 are old you would likely be looking at trims that are not real. First thing to do is look at the O2 sensor high and low volts and how quick it goes from one to the other.
 
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