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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all - New to this forum and new to E60 M5 ownership. Not new to BMW, have had an e39 540i for the past 5 years and it has been actually pretty reliable. 309km on the clock right now.

I recently purchased a few weeks ago an 08 E60 M5 with 155km on it, may have been from another forum member here.. It was great for about 1000 km, and what a freakin car, really happy with it, well except for the dreaded DSC Malfunction i just started getting.. and now it's sitting in my garage.

Car was in tip top condition and still is as far as i know however i went to pull onto the highway after making a quick stop and dropped it to 2nd and punched it and at around 4-5k rpm the dash lit up. This was the first problem i have ever had with the car. I pulled over, restarted it, and it went away, however within 1 or 2 km it was back, wasn't getting off that easy I guess..

Things i have checked:

Tire Pressure - OK

Steering Wheel Angle Sensor Symptoms - OK (turn signal shuts off properly, did the lock to lock, no change, i don't believe it is the
problem at this point)

Voltage - Slightly low maybe.. I never see it over 14 when the car is running, often it's around 13.5 to 13.7v (checking with OBC hidden menu) When it's off it's 12.5v to 12.7v. Was hoping i would get off easy and the battery was weak or something, but i went and bought an AGM intelligent charger with tender mode and topped the battery right up and no change. (seemed to change thought i was OK but went a few km and boom DSC again) Also i have receipts for battery and coding from previous owner only just over 1 year ago.


Codes - Torque reports pending fault U1146 pretty consistently and U1136 occasionally, clearing faults may or may not let me run error free for a km or two but DSC comes right back. I have not been able to find too much about these faults online.. It seems that U11* codes are BMW proprietary? (waiting for my bmw cable to come so i can check with some better tools, my el cheapo elm327 doesn't want to work with Carly either, so i have a new one of those coming as well)


Idle - When DSC fault happens, Idle goes from normal 750ish to about 1050.


Other errors:
DBS Malfunction, Start of Assistance disabled, Increased Emissions - none of these were ever present until the DSC thing happened, kind of pointing me to electrical.. ?


Relevant info:

No TPMS sensors installed in my wheels, so always have a TPM warning. No extra hole in the wheels for the sensor so never going to be fixed.

Idle actuators have both been done, 1 was a year ago (have receipts) 1 was several years ago (no receipts)

Have not been to the dealer or indy yet.

Would like to hear some opinions from some seasoned m5 owners if possible. Fault seems to happen at any rpm, stationary or moving, no rhyme or rhythm i have found.

Thanks for reading!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Update

UPDATE:

I received my cable in the mail and was able to get a hold of ISTA and get it installed.

Looks like idle actuator in bank 2 problem, before i go and take care of that, does anyone here think it could be anything else? Is there any reason why i shouldn't go ahead and replace idle actuator in bank 2.

Both idle actuators have been done on this vehicle before, one of them was only just over a year ago, the other was several years ago on warranty from what i understand.

This is what ISTA tells me:

faults:


CDBE - DME: Idle actuator, CAN message, bank 2

these faults i believe were me when i was troubleshooting if it's an electrical system problem
E714
E720

Results from ISTA test of actuator in bank 2 (bank 1 is all OK)


Measurement results, cylinder bank 2:

Integral duty factor, ramp 1: OK
Integral duty factor, ramp 2: Not OK.
Integral duty factor, close: Not OK.
Integral control deviation, ramp 1: OK
Integral control deviation, ramp 2: OK
Integral control deviation, close: OK
Mean value, ramp 1: OK
Mean value, ramp 2: Not OK.
Mean value, close: Not OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The IA sounds like the culprit. I had one fail after only 3 months of replacing the gear. Not a hard job really.

Are you talking about Throttle Actuators? I know there are gears for those.. Are there aftermarket gears available for IA's too?
 

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^+1. If you're doing one IA do both. You can be guaranteed the second will fail shortly.

From experience, the hill start assist only disables when the IA's go. When my TA's went hill start remained functional. Although the rest of the symptoms, limp mode et al, are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
turns out bank 1 IA was actually done 4 months ago i read the receipt wrong.. so i am just going to do bank 2, bank 2 is somewhere in the neighbourhood of 3-5 years old from the sounds of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So i'm about half way done doing this, just got the plenum off, and wouldn't ya know it, the bank 1 CCV hose right at the back of the plenum is frankensteined, someone broke the connector / hose at some point, and clamped in another piece of hose to make it work..

Hope that doesn't end up haunting me somehow, i don't know too much about this hose, from brief reading it's too recover oil from crank case vapor, no high pressure or anything.. so i guess it should be OK?
 

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If it leaks, it will lead to issues - right? Too much unregistered air entering the plenum will lead to running lean. The DME will adjust but only up to a point. Can't this also lead to misfires on the bank it's associated with?

If it's on snug and tight then, no worries.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If it leaks, it will lead to issues - right? Too much unregistered air entering the plenum will lead to running lean. The DME will adjust but only up to a point. Can't this also lead to misfires on the bank it's associated with?
Thanks now you have me nice and worried :) Not too happy i found this as i know reading diy's and watching diy videos on this job everybody says DON'T BREAK THAT, so i was going to be extra careful to make sure i didn't break it and sure enough i find one already broken..

It looks like the hose used is a pretty tight fit and the rig job at least looks decent.. i'm not sure what more i can do to make sure it's not going to leak.. ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
:dunno

If it's been fine until now - I say let sleeping dogs lie. Is it held on with a hose clamp or just loose?

It's been fine, i'm in here for an idle actuator on bank 2 so not even remotely related.. and have never seen any misfires or lean codes (but i've only owned this thing for 1000km.. )

Yes it's held on with a hose clamp at the "junction" point and then hose clamped again to the plenum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
So I ended up changing the bad idle actuator with one from rockauto and a new seal from the dealer. Took a while, probably the neatest repair job i ever did on a car.. the M5 is worth putting a little time into though.

Big thanks to @rt7085 for this thread: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e6.../545745-idle-actuator-failure-cdbd-u1138.html and taking the time to fix the pictures as well as doing it lighting quick. That thread really helped me out.

For anyone contemplating doing idle / throttle actuators, i also found these videos helpful, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zERVyZc10i8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By2DKw0g6eI

I bought a few tools but i don't really count that because i should have them around anyway. End of the day other than time i'm into it for $660, dealer quoted me $2500 taxes in..

Finished yesterday, no codes, idle actuator bank 2 passes everything in ISTA, full redline back again ;)

I did pull out one of my throttle actuators in the process, and noticed it was dated, they both were, and are both original. So now i have two new idle actuators, but i will be here again some day for those TA's. Wondering if i should do the gears before they fail?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hmmm.. so it turns out I have a pending fault P2272, o2 sensor stuck lean..

Car seems to be running great.. but it's a little worrying.

This seems to be the post cat o2 sensor on the drivers side (bank 2, LHD)

Is there anything i was supposed to reset after installing the new idle actuator? Adaptations ? Bank 2 is where the new idle actuator went, I also do a LOT of highway driving, sitting around 2800 rpm or so (assuming this is using the new idle actuator to achieve is why i mention it)

Also when i was taking out the old idle actuator, i frayed the fuel tank breather hose and ended up having to cut off a little tiny bit as it was stuck on, i called the dealer and they said 2 weeks for the hose so i went ahead and just re-installed it like that, seemed to fit totally fine and nice and night, not sure if that could be it.

What else could i check? I am going to check the clamps tonight on the bank 2 plenum.. Anyone think it could be the breather hose?
 

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The tank breather hose is suspect. Its sucking in air somewhere. I had the same issue with these hoses being stuck; I had to destroy them to get the actuators out. And yes, long lead times in my case as well. I put my own clamps on it as well. Also, the two metal gaskets in between the actuators and the heads must be seated properly as well as the rubber O rings that slide into the heads with a little grease. And yes, the booths on the plenums should not be accidentally folded. Use a mirror to check. Other than that, get a smoke test done on your intake system and find any unconsidered leaks.

Rule #1: When you have some miles, you touch a hose you replace that hose.
 

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Hi all - New to this forum and new to E60 M5 ownership. Not new to BMW, have had an e39 540i for the past 5 years and it has been actually pretty reliable. 309km on the clock right now.

I recently purchased a few weeks ago an 08 E60 M5 with 155km on it, may have been from another forum member here.. It was great for about 1000 km, and what a freakin car, really happy with it, well except for the dreaded DSC Malfunction i just started getting.. and now it's sitting in my garage.

Car was in tip top condition and still is as far as i know however i went to pull onto the highway after making a quick stop and dropped it to 2nd and punched it and at around 4-5k rpm the dash lit up. This was the first problem i have ever had with the car. I pulled over, restarted it, and it went away, however within 1 or 2 km it was back, wasn't getting off that easy I guess..

Things i have checked:

Tire Pressure - OK

Steering Wheel Angle Sensor Symptoms - OK (turn signal shuts off properly, did the lock to lock, no change, i don't believe it is the
problem at this point)

Voltage - Slightly low maybe.. I never see it over 14 when the car is running, often it's around 13.5 to 13.7v (checking with OBC hidden menu) When it's off it's 12.5v to 12.7v. Was hoping i would get off easy and the battery was weak or something, but i went and bought an AGM intelligent charger with tender mode and topped the battery right up and no change. (seemed to change thought i was OK but went a few km and boom DSC again) Also i have receipts for battery and coding from previous owner only just over 1 year ago.


Codes - Torque reports pending fault U1146 pretty consistently and U1136 occasionally, clearing faults may or may not let me run error free for a km or two but DSC comes right back. I have not been able to find too much about these faults online.. It seems that U11* codes are BMW proprietary? (waiting for my bmw cable to come so i can check with some better tools, my el cheapo elm327 doesn't want to work with Carly either, so i have a new one of those coming as well)


Idle - When DSC fault happens, Idle goes from normal 750ish to about 1050.


Other errors:
DBS Malfunction, Start of Assistance disabled, Increased Emissions - none of these were ever present until the DSC thing happened, kind of pointing me to electrical.. ?


Relevant info:

No TPMS sensors installed in my wheels, so always have a TPM warning. No extra hole in the wheels for the sensor so never going to be fixed.

Idle actuators have both been done, 1 was a year ago (have receipts) 1 was several years ago (no receipts)

Have not been to the dealer or indy yet.

Would like to hear some opinions from some seasoned m5 owners if possible. Fault seems to happen at any rpm, stationary or moving, no rhyme or rhythm i have found.

Thanks for reading!
Hi
Have the same problem on my 2006 m6 and I've been told that throttle actuators needs to be changed
 

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Hi
Have the same problem on my 2006 m6 and I've been told that throttle actuators needs to be changed
Typical problem with the plastic gears. Changing the plastic gears is trivial if you are a DIY person. I changed the gears in mine, but one of the electronic boards was also toast, so I managed to get a broken TA and took its board and it worked !
 
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