BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
855 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure this will be worthy of a DIY but it will be more information than I found. So I ordered a new driveshaft from Drivelines NW for $450. Before that I managed to take apart my existing driveshaft. You can buy the CV joint, carrier bearing and piolet bearing from many suppliers. The one you can't get is the U-joint, it is staked in. You could grind out the stakes and remove it and fine a replacement but once you are that far you may as well buy the whole thing. The deal breaker on mine was that I could feel a bump in the u-joint that felt like a detent and I did not like it.

First you have to remove the exhaust, center heat shield and the ones on either side of the transmission. There are three bolts in the Guibo(18mm), Two for the carrier(13mm) and six in the CV joint(T50 internal). Getting the CV out of the input shaft can be a bear, there are two slots to pry against or you can use a hammer and chisel. Once you have it out you should put it in a vice.

To get the CV joint off you pop the cap off the back, then there is a small clip to remove and the joint slides right off.
950436

Then you can put the center in the vice and remove the bolt that holds the driveshafts together(18mm)
950437

Then you can tap the carrier bearing off or use a puller
950438

There is a small spacer washer behind the bearing
950439

And of course the piolet bearing would be last
950440

As I said the u-joint is staked in but you could remove it and match it up
950441

If you are pressed for time as I was or money and maybe stuck far from home this may help. Time and dollars permitting a new driveshaft is the best route.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
855 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Okay, I got my new driveshaft and wanted to wrap up this thread. First it is not aluminum it is steel, that would explain the lower cost. The tube is smaller in diameter so the weight increase is not significant. Installing it was a little confusing at first because it seemed a bit short. This was due to the CV joint being collapsed, once you get the front in and the carrier mounted you just have to use the bolts to the rear diff and suck the CV up to it. Overall no problems and the new driveshaft has a replaceable u-joint.
950582
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top