BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,450 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What is the part number(s) for the rubber weather stripping that's fitted to the door frames (not the doors themselves), specifically for the front two doors? It's that common wear item from repeated opening of the doors, usually the wear occurs on the front door seals near the B-piller. The seal encompasses the entire door frame. Just need the part number so I can locate it on Real OEM. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,450 Posts
Discussion Starter #4

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Agree #1 and I need one on the drviers sides. Anyone know if there is a DIY for installation of this part? I have searched and always end with lengthy door seal threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
368 Posts
Hi Guys,

I've done this recently on my beast. From memory, the steps I used were as follows:
1. Remove the driver's side kick panel. To do this, unscrew the phillips head screw that holds the bonnet release catch and remove the catch. Also remove the trim plug/s that hold it on place with a screw driver (once they are loose, just pull the whole panel off.
2. Remove the bottom piece of interior coloured plastic trim that covers the rubber strip you are trying to remove along the door sill. It's mounted via 3 trim plugs that go into a slide underneath it, so I slid the whole trim piece forward (sort of aiming toward the carpet behind the accelerator pedal), and once it slips off its rear plug, slide it backwards towards the bottom of the "B" pillar. Once it's slid off its front plug too, you can easily slide it forward again off the center plug. Alternatively, I believe you can just pull it upwards (maybe get a screwdriver under it fom the front and lever it up), and the trim plugs should pop out. But I didn't want to break anything by forcing it, so preferred to slide it off. If you can just pull it up you won't need to remove the kick panel, as this was only done to allow room to slide it forward.
3. Pull the rubber seal off from its bottom join, making note of where the join sits so you can reinstall in the same position.
4. Next, install the new rubber in the same position. I just banged it securely onto the metal lip with by palm, so that its channel sits properly in position. Particularly watch the corners at the top and bottom of the door and make sure the trim sits right tightly into the corners. You'll know if it's not in properly beacuse it will end up too long at the bottom.
5. The next is a trick I almost missed! You'll see a little piece of loose rubber strip hanging off the inside of the new trim at each end. You actually need to peel this off, and as it peels back, it releases the internal lip of the new trim and pulls it neatly out to cover the interior trim such as the headlining and A/B pillar trims. Pull this off all the way around and make sure the new trim is sitting neatly when you look at it from the inside.
Reinstallation:
6. Before you reinstall the lower plastic sill trim, carefully pull out it's 2 outer white trim plugs from the door sill (if they have remained there) with pliers, being careful not to bend or distort them. Slide the door sill trim onto the center one (still fitted to the car), then slide the two outer ones into their position in the channel of the trim, and move them back into position above their holes and bang the trim with your palm so that they pop back into place.
7. Fit the kick panel back into place (the trim plugs just push back in, and screw the hood catch lever back on and you're done!

Hope this helps, it took me about 30 mins!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
84 Posts
Hell of a memory you got there M5 Sydney! I need to add this to my minor maintenance list. at this point the cracking has led to any leaks etc. THANKS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
That really is some incredible memory.

Sorry for reviving this thread. Just saw the weatherstrip on my front passenger door peeling back from the roof frame not providing a good seal. If I was rain, I would want to enter through there haha (which it did. Found some water in the door hinges area.) I think mine is part 8, if I'm reading the diagram correctly.

Anybody know if the DIY posted above pertains to part number 8 as well?

Thanks! Love this forum!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,478 Posts
The $60+ part is the correct one. I have a set here I need to install. There is some sort of instruction page in the box with the part as well.

I think it should be pretty straight forward, just start at the same spot the current gasket is split would be my suggestion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
I have replaced the driver side seal previously for the common wear at the B pillar. I recently looked at my passenger side and it too was starting to get thin in the same place. Having done a DIY of the seal before it occurred to me the seal is merely the correct length...it does not care where the bends in the door aperture are. You can actually remove a rotate the seal around so that the wear distributes evenly. Also since I had an old driver side seal I cut a good portion from it and "spliced" it in place of the worm area on the passenger side. Done cleanly with a razor it is completely invisible where the splice is, and no more worn area or wind noise.

If you decide to do this though, the seal does have a think metal spline running though it that must be snipped when you slice it.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top