Yes, they blink. But who cares
I have understand, that reason for this is Check Control which checks lights. And if you are using LED's, you really can see blinking. But normal "halogen" bulbs you cannot notice it... Or something like that
Does your Projector39 rings flicker ???
While having the ignition on, does your projector39 flicker for a few seconds?
Is it possible to eliminate that?
Thanks
Is it possible to eliminate that?
Thanks
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I have understand, that reason for this is Check Control which checks lights. And if you are using LED's, you really can see blinking. But normal "halogen" bulbs you cannot notice it... Or something like that
It's normal. The side light bulbs are 'cold monitored', i.e. they get tested with a low voltage pulse to see if the filament is intact. A Halagen bulb does not react fast enough to flash but LED's do. With the standard E39 LKM it's not possble to code it so that this does not happen, with later LKMs from the X5 it is. The only solution, if it really bothers you, is to wire up a capacitor in parallel with each bulb to absorb the pulse.
Well, first off I'd never cut into the car harness to do such a thing, but that might just be me! Many LED marker bulbs come with a short extension cable, so cutting into this would be my advice.
The exact value of the capacitor will depend a little on the exact characteristics of the LEDs you have, but a rough calculation would indicate that if the pulse is about 100 mili seconds then you'd need a capacitor of around 2,200μF (micro Farads). This may be a little on the small side, but you should not go too big as it will cause a large current draw when you turn the lights on, if you use a much larger capacitor you may also need a small resistor (low resistance, but quite high power to be safe) to prevent a very large surge. A capacitor of that sort of size will mean using an Electrolytic capacitor, so you need to get the polarity right (they are more like a small battery) and make sure that it has at least a 25V rating, common values are usually 16V, 35V or 63V.
I've not done this on mine, but I do plan to do it in the near future, so if you hold fire a bit I'll be able to give exact values and a DIY. But if you do it first let me know what you used!
The exact value of the capacitor will depend a little on the exact characteristics of the LEDs you have, but a rough calculation would indicate that if the pulse is about 100 mili seconds then you'd need a capacitor of around 2,200μF (micro Farads). This may be a little on the small side, but you should not go too big as it will cause a large current draw when you turn the lights on, if you use a much larger capacitor you may also need a small resistor (low resistance, but quite high power to be safe) to prevent a very large surge. A capacitor of that sort of size will mean using an Electrolytic capacitor, so you need to get the polarity right (they are more like a small battery) and make sure that it has at least a 25V rating, common values are usually 16V, 35V or 63V.
I've not done this on mine, but I do plan to do it in the near future, so if you hold fire a bit I'll be able to give exact values and a DIY. But if you do it first let me know what you used!
I think I'll hold out for you to tackle this one!Well, first off I'd never cut into the car harness to do such a thing, but that might just be me! Many LED marker bulbs come with a short extension cable, so cutting into this would be my advice.
The exact value of the capacitor will depend a little on the exact characteristics of the LEDs you have, but a rough calculation would indicate that if the pulse is about 100 mili seconds then you'd need a capacitor of around 2,200μF (micro Farads). This may be a little on the small side, but you should not go too big as it will cause a large current draw when you turn the lights on, if you use a much larger capacitor you may also need a small resistor (low resistance, but quite high power to be safe) to prevent a very large surge. A capacitor of that sort of size will mean using an Electrolytic capacitor, so you need to get the polarity right (they are more like a small battery) and make sure that it has at least a 25V rating, common values are usually 16V, 35V or 63V.
I've not done this on mine, but I do plan to do it in the near future, so if you hold fire a bit I'll be able to give exact values and a DIY. But if you do it first let me know what you used!
I have the Umnitza Orion V2 angel eyes FYI
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you can just shut off cold monitoring of the AE bulbs in the LCM coding.
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i'm fairly certain you can with NCSexpert, I think PAsoft (BMWscanner) is able to as well.
This pic is from BMW scanner (version?)?i'm fairly certain you can with NCSexpert, I think PAsoft (BMWscanner) is able to as well.
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gotcha! X5 probably has the LCMIV.
I replaced my LCMII with an LCMIV (E39 never got this from the factory); so, I sometimes forget what options are and aren't available. Have you tried looking through the code with NCSexpert?
I replaced my LCMII with an LCMIV (E39 never got this from the factory); so, I sometimes forget what options are and aren't available. Have you tried looking through the code with NCSexpert?
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this was all before I had my own GT1/DIS setup:
My LCMII was bad, so I replaced the LCM semi-legitimately.
I bought a new LCMIV ($289 from crown bmw) and took it to a friend who had a laptop-based GT1 setup. He basically clicked "program new LCM"
EDIT: I have replaced an LCM in a friend's 00 m5 with a used LCM. BMW actually documents, and has available in DIS, a method by which you can program a used LCM with all the proper coding sans mileage and VIN - it will work, but the tamper light will be on.
Disclamer - below is probably not legal (i've only done it for myself):
If the light bothers you, simply re-writing the VIN in either the VIN or LCM will make the light go out.
My LCMII was bad, so I replaced the LCM semi-legitimately.
I bought a new LCMIV ($289 from crown bmw) and took it to a friend who had a laptop-based GT1 setup. He basically clicked "program new LCM"
EDIT: I have replaced an LCM in a friend's 00 m5 with a used LCM. BMW actually documents, and has available in DIS, a method by which you can program a used LCM with all the proper coding sans mileage and VIN - it will work, but the tamper light will be on.
Disclamer - below is probably not legal (i've only done it for myself):
If the light bothers you, simply re-writing the VIN in either the VIN or LCM will make the light go out.
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