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Discussion Starter #1
So, I have been having some vanos issues lately. You can find the thread "Vanos Solenoid!!!" and read the back half starting on page 4 of what has been going on.

I pulled the DME after tracing the wires in the engine bay checking for any signs of tears, shorts, grounds, open circuits, anything. I noticed the VIN numbers DO NOT match. The car has a completely different VIN than the DME.:eek:oohhh: After checking on BMWFANS.com, the vin of the DME is from a May 2000 production car whereas my car is pulling up as a January 2000 production car. After looking at the part # on the website, they do not share the same part numbers as well. DME: 7-831-762 Car: 7-835-621 and 620 only. Looking through the list of May 00 the January 00 production numbers are not there. Tried to do a little bit of research on it and came up with nothing...:typing:

The tag says;

Siemens
DME MSS52 7 831 762
5WK9254 Index 03 Made in Germany
Barcode 19.04.00/1

Other tag says;

VIN#
7830817
7831762
7831872


Can anyone make anything of this???

My exhaust Vanos is acting up causing a super rough idle and causing the engine to stall. (no vacuum leaks) I've replaces the CPS 4, I have new O2, I have thoroughly cleaned the solenoids, checked solderings, solenoids sounded great, swapped boards traced wires to DME...

I was going to pull the DME to check the Exhaust Vanos control chip and see if that is the issue but now that I realized that the Vins and Part numbers do not match up, it makes me wonder??!!

Any thoughts??
 

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What you have showing as the VIN# is not the VIN number, it is the software number and hardware number. The VIN number ends with 2 letters and 5 numbers. When the firmware gets updated on the DME, one or both of those numbers will change. There is probably a newer version of the firmware for yours though since it's probably on the 2000 firmware. You should probably update it using WinKFP or take it to the dealer to get it updated. The VIN number on the label of the DME should be the full VIN# and should match the car's.
 

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You say the exhaust VANOS is bad but dont mention replacing the exhaust VANOS or solenoids (unless its in the old thread) ...have you done this? VANOS is a known failure point on these cars.

edit: I cant find a thread with that title by your user name..?
 

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What you have showing as the VIN# is not the VIN number, it is the software number and hardware number. The VIN number ends with 2 letters and 5 numbers. When the firmware gets updated on the DME, one or both of those numbers will change. There is probably a newer version of the firmware for yours though since it's probably on the 2000 firmware. You should probably update it using WinKFP or take it to the dealer to get it updated. The VIN number on the label of the DME should be the full VIN# and should match the car's.
This, and if you look at his date of production on the DME....it was built for may.
 

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It could very well have been a DME replaced under warranty due to a defect or something. If there is no VIN# on the DME at all, it was likely an uncoded one that the dealer installed. I don't see this being a problem though. It could still probably benefit from a firmware update though regardless. I would only worry if the DME had a VIN number stamped on it that wasn't the VIN# of the car. That's the situation with my e38 with the S62 and I removed the EWS requirement of it. That would be the only way a used DME would work in your car unless they swapped the EWS, locks and keys as well, in which case you'd have a tough time ordering new keys if you lose them or need to replace them. I'm pretty sure my used DME has the VIN# of the donor car printed on the casing of the DME, not on the label, but I haven't looked at it in a while, so I could be wrong. Either way, check the entire unit to see if the VIN# is missing.
 

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It could very well have been a DME replaced under warranty due to a defect or something. If there is no VIN# on the DME at all, it was likely an uncoded one that the dealer installed. I don't see this being a problem though. It could still probably benefit from a firmware update though regardless. I would only worry if the DME had a VIN number stamped on it that wasn't the VIN# of the car. That's the situation with my e38 with the S62 and I removed the EWS requirement of it. That would be the only way a used DME would work in your car unless they swapped the EWS, locks and keys as well, in which case you'd have a tough time ordering new keys if you lose them or need to replace them. I'm pretty sure my used DME has the VIN# of the donor car printed on the casing of the DME, not on the label, but I haven't looked at it in a while, so I could be wrong. Either way, check the entire unit to see if the VIN# is missing.
EWS can be recoded from what I know.
 

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EWS cannot be recoded unless it is an EWS 3.2. I don't think the M5's got EWS 3.2 and instead got 3.3 with rolling codes. The EWS is ordered based on the VIN# from the dealer with the VIN# hard coded into it as well as the base rolling codes. The uncoded DME then learns the rolling codes and updates it's database. If the DME was the original, it would already have the rolling codes and would just need a resynch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's the thing though, the vin numbers do not match. I didn't post the VINs due to internet security issues but, they do not match. WBSDE934xxxxxxxx is all that matches. The PO told me he thought there was a tune on it and that he has tried multiple things to get it to idle right and he said the more he did the worse it got. He never mentioned anything about a new DME and when I pull it up on carfax it says nothing about replacing a DME registered by the dealer. He mentioned the engine has been out twice by the dealer and that they tried to force a new engine on the PO and he said no warranty, no thanks. And that's my questions too, how would the car recognize the new DME and start? Could it have been coded with the EWS and all?

Firmware/software update? I have INPA on the way here so could I do it through that? After this thing idles right, I plan on going Alpha N. Or would it be smarter to go Alpha N now?

Yes I have replaced my Exhaust CPS, Intake CPS, new boards, MAFS, checked, double checked, triple checked, swapped banks, double checked, the whole shabang.

Also, what is the difference between a basic DME and a coded DME? One just doesn't have the standard software flash on it and the other does or what? They both (DME in the car, DME the car should have) pull up as basic DMEs. I don't know what to think of it, I am kind of baffled. I want to get to the bottom of this before I proceed with trouble shooting.

Thanks for the quick responses!
 

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That's the thing though, the vin numbers do not match. I didn't post the VINs due to internet security issues but, they do not match. WBSDE934xxxxxxxx is all that matches. The PO told me he thought there was a tune on it and that he has tried multiple things to get it to idle right and he said the more he did the worse it got. He never mentioned anything about a new DME and when I pull it up on carfax it says nothing about replacing a DME registered by the dealer. He mentioned the engine has been out twice by the dealer and that they tried to force a new engine on the PO and he said no warranty, no thanks. And that's my questions too, how would the car recognize the new DME and start? Could it have been coded with the EWS and all?

Firmware/software update? I have INPA on the way here so could I do it through that? After this thing idles right, I plan on going Alpha N. Or would it be smarter to go Alpha N now?

Yes I have replaced my Exhaust CPS, Intake CPS, new boards, MAFS, checked, double checked, triple checked, swapped banks, double checked, the whole shabang.

Also, what is the difference between a basic DME and a coded DME? One just doesn't have the standard software flash on it and the other does or what? They both (DME in the car, DME the car should have) pull up as basic DMEs. I don't know what to think of it, I am kind of baffled. I want to get to the bottom of this before I proceed with trouble shooting.

Thanks for the quick responses!
The difference between coded and uncoded means that the VIN# has been burned into a coded one and hasn't in an uncoded one. The VIN number is not possible to change on the DME once it's been "married" to an EWS, except through some physical connection to the chips inside the DME, but that's a pretty advanced discussion and not likely the case. What likely happened is that he either had RPM Motorsports, or some other shop, "virginize" the DME or they removed the EWS requirement altogether as I did on my swap. Again, they could have swapped the EWS, DME, locks and keys from a donor car into their car as well, but then the VIN# wouldn't match on the EWS module as well. Once you get INPA, you can view the info on the DME and EWS and compare it to the rest of the car and see. If they did remove the EWS requirement out of the DME, you'll have lost one bit of security on your car. If they swapped the DME, EWS, locks and keys, you'll have the before mentioned issue with ordering new keys in the future.

You said the engine has been taken out twice by the dealer and they said he needed a new engine, so the PO could have very well had a used engine swapped in and for some reason thought they needed to swap the DME and other modules as well (not needed unless DME was fried or something). I doubt carfax would have a record of someone doing an engine swap with a used one. If you did a carfax on my e38, it certainly wouldn't show an engine swap to a S62.

Regarding firmware update, if you have INPA, you should have winkfp as well, which can update it to the latest version, so long as you have daten files newer than 2003+. Do a search for how to update DME using winkfp and just use the update button instead of putting in a ZB number manually. This will make sense when you read about doing the update.

As far as Alpha-N, I would wait until you get it running right before doing any kind of tune. Alpha-N requires all sensors to be working perfectly since it relies on pre-set tables, rather than live data, so make sure yours are working as they should be.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the quick response and very useful info!

I see/hear really nothing wrong with the engine at all. It has the usual vanos rattle and that really about it minus the super rough idle which is the primary issue. I was reading a thread on whether or not the software can become corrupt...from what I read that was a no. Do you think that after updating the firmware/software on the DME the engine should idle better.

Its holding up my swap! I am swapping this hoss beast of a motor into my e30 sedan! I have basically everything ready, just not the engine! It is still in the M5.

So check the EWS under the dash to see the VIN on it, if it doesn't match then the DME should have in written out of the coding? If they do match, then everything was swapped to the car? Then could I try the key in the door and see if it works?

I will look into that thread to update the DME. My INPA stuff should be here Monday.
 

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Thanks for the quick response and very useful info!

I see/hear really nothing wrong with the engine at all. It has the usual vanos rattle and that really about it minus the super rough idle which is the primary issue. I was reading a thread on whether or not the software can become corrupt...from what I read that was a no. Do you think that after updating the firmware/software on the DME the engine should idle better.

Its holding up my swap! I am swapping this hoss beast of a motor into my e30 sedan! I have basically everything ready, just not the engine! It is still in the M5.

So check the EWS under the dash to see the VIN on it, if it doesn't match then the DME should have in written out of the coding? If they do match, then everything was swapped to the car? Then could I try the key in the door and see if it works?

I will look into that thread to update the DME. My INPA stuff should be here Monday.
I see, you're planning on doing a swap! That makes things a bit easier. First of all, your rough idle might be spark plugs or fuel injectors clogged. Mine ran really rough at idle when I first fired the engine up, but the engine had been sitting for about 8 months before. I put new plugs in and it still ran a bit rough, but after running some injector cleaner and flooring it down the road a bit, it cleared up and runs great. It still isn't the smoothest idle now, but nothing I'm really worried about. I am planning to send my injectors to be cleaned soon. I have a M54b30 in my 530i and it is hard to tell it is even running when idling, so that's my comparison. The V8 is by nature going to shake a bit more at idle than an inline 6.

Once you put the engine/DME in the e30, you won't need/want EWS anyways, so if the EWS requirement has already been coded out of the DME, you're one step ahead of the game. If not, I can help you do that by PM. Basically, once EWS is coded out, you just use the start signal from the e30 to the DME and bypass the EWS module entirely.

As for checking the VIN# on the EWS, I don't know if it's printed on the module itself or not. You'll have to check with INPA when you get it going.
 

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Oh, and PLEASE make a build log of your e30 S62 swap! If you already have one, PM a link. I'd like to check that out. A 4dr too, Cool!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Haha yeah E30 swap! I will make an epic build thread for it! My custom headers will be here monday along with some other custom stuff from Ergen Motorsport!

Well, I'm not getting any injector codes at the moment. Just AVANOS1 Regulation and AVANOS2 Regulation. It sounds like a sweet drag car...but, thats not how it is supposed to be lol. I can't wait to get this thing out and squeeze it into the e30! She is very hard to rev too. It doesn't like that at all. ahah and then after its out of cold start, rev it and it will stall.
 

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Have you checked your MAF's? Try disconnecting them before starting the engine and then see if it runs better after starting it with them disconnected. Also, have you checked the oil pan to see if there are any timing chain guide pieces? I doubt that it's the guides, but if it was out of time, I would think it might cause the VANOS codes. I'm not S62 expert though, I've just played with mine a bit, but mine only has 43k miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, I got a code for the MAFS, changed them out, no code. If I unplug them, no difference. If I start with or Without them, no difference. Very interesting. Could it be possible that I have a tune that is like alpha n? No MAFS but uses intake temp, O2 and water temp on pre set tables? Interesting. But why would it only affect both exhuast vanos??? Would it not affect the intake vanos too?
 

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You could have an Alpha-N tune already, but I think you wouldn't get a MAF code if you did. It's possible the codes weren't cleared after doing the Alpha-N tune, but I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hmm...Well, I am kinda stuck at the moment. I guess I will wait until INPA and my DIS/Prog/other stuff get here so I can see what the hell is going on with this thing. If you want, you can send pictures of your swap or any neat things you did! I'm sure I could benefit from them! PM or Email me if you'd like! [email protected]
 

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Check both my buildlogs on bimmerforums and m5board, the links are at the bottom of my sig. They are quite extensive.
 

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