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Labor of Love! I appreciate all the info, pics, and clarifications. It was tough but she rides great! Took me and a buddy 9 hrs with a break to assist a neighbor in a domestic dispute that took law enforcement a bit to respond.
 

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My numbers

Before: FD 28 3/8 FP 28 1/4 RD 26 7/8 RP 27
Drive around the block: FD 27 FP 27 RD 26 7/8 RP 26 1/4
Next day 50 miles: FD 26 5/8 FP 26 3/4 RD 26 1/4 RP 26 3/8
Five days later: FD 26 1/2 FP 26 1/2 RD 26 1/4 RP 26 3/8

It's so nice. I didn't want the slammed look but I wanted it more aggressive. Eibach did the trick. Now my wife wants me to do the Prius.
 

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Excellent DIY Thread!

I was planning on having a shop install my Eibach springs, but after reading this thread, I tackled myself yesterday. I'm very pleased with the look of the car now. I will say that in the front, it's important to ensure that when re-installing the front assembly, that the stud with the nipple next to it be installed toward the engine. Also, in the rear, I spent over an hour trying to tighten the 18mm bolt on the passenger side. I believe it was because I had tightened the 3 nuts on the strut tower first and didn't properly line up the hole on the bottom of the shock as good as I could have, which put some unnecessary torque on the bolt the entire time. When I did the one on the driver side, I got the 3 nuts on the shock tower started, but left them loose. I then used a long bar for leverage against the bottom of the shock and kind of shimmied it while installing the 18mm bolt. I also found that if you use an 18mm socket with a pretty long extension, you are able to work the wrench behind the lower control arm and have plenty of room to loosen or tighten the bolt very easily. Also, I found taking out the inner fender shields actually saved lots of aggravation in removing and installing the assembly. Overall though, this detailed thread was great in terms of me not having to figure out the jigsaw puzzle that is BMW in terms of what nuts, bolts and ancillary items to remove in order to get to the items targeted for modification. Great job, and THANKS!:goldcup:
 

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Just finished installing H&R springs on my '08 M5. Reading through these DIY posts definitely helped, so thanks!

One thing to note for H&R springs is the orientation of the front springs. The H&R springs have a side where the coils are close together, and the other side of the spring is a lot wider. The side with the coils closer together goes up toward the chassis, with wider side down toward the axle. When you are taking the tension off the spring compressors, be sure the lower part of the spring (oblong shaped) is sitting correctly on the shock, which has the same oblong shape to it.

I didn't even realize this until I had the passenger side finished, and was about half way through the driver side. It only took me about 45 min to redo it since by then I knew exactly how to do it.

Rears were pretty easy, no spring compressor needed. Definitely have to remove the wheel well liners.

Start to finish took me about 7 hours, including doing the front passenger side twice. Pretty straight forward though.

H&R springs are just barely a touch stiffer than stock, almost not even noticeable. I'm definitely happy with the drop, and improved handling.
 

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Excellent right up gents. So one year in what is the general consensus on the best lowering springs for the M6 ??

Has anyone tried the Dinan kit??

Thanks
 

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Ok guys this is so helpful. I order my H&R spring for my 2006 interlagos blue M5 and they should arrive today. I quoted a few shops to see how much would they charge for this job and it ranges from $400 to $600. This thread is very detailed and i think with all the input and contrubution from all of you fellows it will be harder for a shop to do the job better than the way it is described here. I believe I am ready to pull the trigger and do it on my own. Do i have to replace all nuts during the installation process? Thanks for the advice guys.
 

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Hey Guys. I finished my front ones yesterday and need to work on the back ones. So far looks nice and more agressive. The ride quality is almost the same. You only feel the stiffer ride on deep places but I was thinking it would be much worst. Once I get the back ones installed i will drive the car for about 2 weeks like that and then I will grt it aligned and it will be ready for the new choose. HREs ??. Just a few tips I think will be helpful are 1. Make sure you use a 12mm wrench to loosen up the upper bolt of the strut assemply while is still mounted in the car because it is harder to loosen up that bolt onces its been removed.i personally used a jack to support the weight of the assembly from the rotor. Just make sure you use a rag or something to protect the rotor. I will finish up the back tomorrow and let you know if there is anything else i can contribute to this great diy.
 

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This is a great description. But I don't get it. Why lowering springs? Is it mostly for looks? Is it handling? And if it is handling what is so much better? I think my stock '10 handles great right now without changing a thing. But maybe this is a case where you don't know how much better it could be.... Thanks for your thoughts/experience.
 

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Well, when you lower the car, that also lowers the center of gravity and makes the car more responsive and quicker when you turn and it also improves handling. It also makes it look nicer because it closes down the gap between the fender and the tires. I finished installing my springs about a week and a half ago. I was a little concern about ride quality because i did mot want to get the bouncy honda civic feeling. The H&R sport springs are perfect. They drop the car 1.2" in the front and .75 in the back. I will get my car aligned next week and will get the new rims on.
 

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Anyone have any info on how to get at the rear shocks on a m6 convertible. The trunk layout is quite different and I'm wondering if there are any differences compared to the instructions posted here.
Thx
 

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Trying to do this and thanks to Photobucket, it's going to be about 10000000x more difficult. FU Photobucket.

-Jeffinslaw
 

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Finally did mine, everything went on smoothly.

Went with H&R springs on my m6.

Front springs the H&R branding is upside-down which bothers me but it only fits one way as the base is an oblong shape.

Also after I finised I realized I did something wrong on the fronts.
I assume that the grooves at the base is where the spring should sit but TIS says otherwise so gonna have to redo it.
Drove fine though but just to satisfy my OCD I will redo it.
935984
 
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