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Thanks for the DIY, Just installed Eibach Pro Kit on my 2006 E63.
It took about 3.5 hours.

And I do agree the rears are a bit harder.
That lower bolt is really hard to loosen and on install you can't see where the upper bolt line-up.
 

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Starting mine now. All 4 corners with new rear struts. Setting my stopwatch.
starting time 14:16, its 15:36 are you half way done yet.....hmmm.
you did have new rear struts :biggrinbounce:
 

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starting time 14:16, its 15:36 are you half way done yet.....hmmm.
you did have new rear struts :biggrinbounce:
Never made it to the rears. Front is done but good lord it was a nightmare of a job and I'm also an idiot.

One spring compressor broke in the process and I barely made it to Autozone in time to get another set. Correctly seating them to compress properly both removing and installing the new springs was the toughest part. For the record, I've done this on 4 other cars and this was by far the hardest one.

6 hours to do the front alone. Broken Compressor. 5 beers. Put the stops on upside down. Not fun but the results look great.
 

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Never made it to the rears. Front is done but good lord it was a nightmare of a job and I'm also an idiot.

One spring compressor broke in the process and I barely made it to Autozone in time to get another set. Correctly seating them to compress properly both removing and installing the new springs was the toughest part. For the record, I've done this on 4 other cars and this was by far the hardest one.

6 hours to do the front alone. Broken Compressor. 5 beers. Put the stops on upside down. Not fun but the results look great.
Ouch, sorry to hear that it was a PITA yawnnnn.
My install was easy except for the lower bolt for the rear coilovers. They should have been torqued to about 200 foot lbs, but they must have been around 400 ouich, just giving you a 'heads up' ... good luck:byebye:
 

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Ouch, sorry to hear that it was a PITA yawnnnn.
My install was easy except for the lower bolt for the rear coilovers. They should have been torqued to about 200 foot lbs, but they must have been around 400 ouich, just giving you a 'heads up' ... good luck:byebye:
Those rear bolts were a son of a #@[email protected]#%. 2 hours per rear corner. Getting everything out was easy. That took about 20 minutes. Putting the new setup in? Easy. Tightening the lower bolt? Forever. One hour slowly putting that 18mm sucker back in, 1/8" of a turn at a time with a socket and pry bar. Breaker bar wouldn't fit. A wrench works but good luck getting enough torque. I even tried to clean everything of any rust or dirt that might be making it more difficult.

Soooooo, 6 hours on the front. 4 hours on the rears for me. I don't know that it would have been any quicker minus the hour or so trip to the store and a couple breaks here and there. I wasn't rushing either but its all back together correctly and was done well.
 

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Those rear bolts were a son of a #@[email protected]#%. 2 hours per rear corner. Getting everything out was easy. That took about 20 minutes. Putting the new setup in? Easy. Tightening the lower bolt? Forever. One hour slowly putting that 18mm sucker back in, 1/8" of a turn at a time with a socket and pry bar. Breaker bar wouldn't fit. A wrench works but good luck getting enough torque. I even tried to clean everything of any rust or dirt that might be making it more difficult.

Soooooo, 6 hours on the front. 4 hours on the rears for me. I don't know that it would have been any quicker minus the hour or so trip to the store and a couple breaks here and there. I wasn't rushing either but its all back together correctly and was done well.
Even after all that 'trouble' aren't you glad you did it ;).
Great Job :cheers:
 

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For anyone doing the rears in the future, get a can of liquid wrench and some thread lock.

Spray both the rear arm bolt and the strut bolt with liquid wrench or any other penetrating oil first.

The rear arm nut takes accepts a 3/4" or 18mm wrench and there is a T40 on the end. I snapped two T40s in the process due to the amount of torque to loosen.

For both rear struts, once you have the rear arm out (you can pry it out once the nut is removed), you can loosen and take out the rear strut bolt. Then remove the top three strut tower nuts. The strut will come out with a light rubber mallet hit to the side towards the car and will pop out with the assembly jumping up a little bit. From there, you'll just need to use one hand to push the arm clear and pull the strut out. Once the strut is removed, spray more penetrating oil into the hole left by the rear strut bolt. You'll be glad you did as that thing takes a crap ton of torque otherwise and you'll save yourself a lot of trouble. Don't go crazy with the oil and get it everywhere, especially not on the brakes. Just enough to coat and clean the inside where that rear strut bolt goes.

The rear strut top nut is best used with a set of pliers and a 5/8" wrench counter turning. I didn't use the compressors at all in both taking the stock spring off nor putting the new spring on. It will pop but its not severe and if you're using locking pliers on the top nut it'll be fine but just make sure you don't point it anything like your face just to be safe. The new spring will go one with just a little amount of pressure.

Once the strut is completely fitted, move the arm out of the way and fit it back into the wheel well hole. To line it up and guide it back into the assembly strut hole, I used an 18" pry bar from the bottom. This would be easier with two people so someone can look from the trunk to align the bolts. There's only one way they'll go in that matches to the bottom assembly. Use that same pry bar or a block of wood or whatever thats about 2" thick to set the bottom of the strut on. The upward force of the assembly will push the strut towards the top with that 2" of whatever you have underneath it. Took about 3 tries to get them in. When you put the new or old strut tower nuts back on in the trunk, put some threadlocker on them. As a reminder, spray the rear strut bolt hole on the assembly if you haven't already.

To guide the bottom of the strut back into place on the assembly, I used that same 18" pry bar with the end on the bottom of the caliper pushing the strut up while leveraging the top of the caliper to push the assembly down. It'll pop in with only a little bit of bodyweight force.

Reattach the arm bolt to the assembly and torque back down with your 3/4" or 18mm wrench and Torx T40 bit. Don't use a socket or rachet. This only needs a few turns until snug.

For the strut bolt, spray it with a small amount of penetrating oil and wipe any excess off. You now should be able to tighten it by hand until there is only about an inch or less left to tighten. Use a ratchet and 18mm socket by hand until you can't any longer. You can use two wrenches as seen in the earlier photos or use a pry bar. I kept one hand on the rachet with the other pressing against the top of the handle with a pry bar providing the force against the strut. It made it a lot easier and little by little you'll get there, even at 1/8 or less of a turn each time depending on the force needed and the height of your ratchet.

It'll look great. I had just the fronts done for a while but the rear end did not feel right at all even with EDC. Looks better. Handles much better than I thought and the Eibachs do not appear to have sacrificed anything with the comfort setting. With the EDC, everything firms up well and without it rides smooth.

Best of luck
 

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Once the strut is removed, spray more penetrating oil into the hole left by the rear strut bolt. You'll be glad you did as that thing takes a crap ton of torque otherwise and you'll save yourself a lot of trouble.
While using penetrating oil to remove the bolt might be helpful (or essential), adding oil increases the risk this bolt will come loose.

This bolt should always be replaced.
 

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While using penetrating oil to remove the bolt might be helpful (or essential), adding oil increases the risk this bolt will come loose.

This bolt should always be replaced.
Do you think thats possible at 200+lbs of torque to get it fully set?
 

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122 lbs would have maybe been enough to get you 1/3 of the way on either side of my rear struts. I know that's the guideline but it took way, way more force than that. At 165lbs, I had to put nearly all of my weight on the end of a 36" breaker bar to get it flush.
 

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122 lbs would have maybe been enough to get you 1/3 of the way on either side of my rear struts. I know that's the guideline but it took way, way more force than that. At 165lbs, I had to put nearly all of my weight on the end of a 36" breaker bar to get it flush.
There might be must be something wrong. I have had the rear shocks out several times, and used a torque wrench to reach 122 lb-ft.

I install the bottom bolt first, then use a jack to lift the entire assembly to install the 3 nuts on top.
 

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Thank you so wery much for this DIY! I put on my Eibach's in 3,5 hours without any sweat. There is one thing I did that you didnt mention that made it easier. I loosened the rear swaybar, and that made the prosess of getting out the strut a whole lot easier. Also at the same time I had everything taken apart I cleaned the drains under the filterhousings in front as they were clogged.
 

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Hello,

First off many thanks for this excellent write-up and thread. I am thinking about doing this mod myself and had few questions for you.

1- Which is better H&R or Eibach? I will prefer the firmer/stiffer ride of the two.
2- Have you noticed any behavioral deviation since the upgrade such as looser steering at higher speeds, etc?
3- Were your alignment numbers close to the original readings prior to upgrade? Not sure if you might even have this information.

Many thanks for you help and kindest regards,

Neb
 

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1- Which is better H&R or Eibach? I will prefer the firmer/stiffer ride of the two.
2- Have you noticed any behavioral deviation since the upgrade such as looser steering at higher speeds, etc?
3- Were your alignment numbers close to the original readings prior to upgrade? Not sure if you might even have this information.
1. I have Eibachs - just a bit lower and a bit stiffer
2. no noticeable deviation
3. I had my car aligned 3 months prior to spring install. It was able to be re-aligned within specs (but on the outside edge of specs - for the front)

I do have more rubbing in the rear since I installed 15mm spacers ;)

Rich
 
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