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Thanks for the reminder. Tomorrow will be one week on the rears. I'll remeasure them tonight or tomorrow.
Sounds good...hopefully the fronts have settled more too since your last measurement, which was only .65 on the front righthmmm
 

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Discussion Starter #23
FR=2.360', FL=2.355', RR=2.355', RL=2.360'
After Eibhack install and one trip around the block:
FR=2.295', FL=2.295', RR=2.310', RL=2.305'
After one week:
FR=2.295', FL=2.295', RR=2.295', RL=2.290'
 

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survyor2 thanks a lot for taking the time to do this DIY. This is going to prove very useful for me.
 

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Did you cut the bump stops?
 

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Thank you for taking the time to post such a detailed and informative thread. I had my independent shop quote my $600 for a day and a half of labor to install springs. I figured he just hasn't had the experience to properly estimate the labor requirement. With the help of your writeup I think I will just make a nice Sunday project for myself. Thanks again!

-TZ
 

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negative.
Thanks....

I just got my spring compressor "loaner" tool from the parts store. My Eibachs are suppose to arrive today...so I should be starting the project tomorrow or Friday
 

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Does yours have the self leveling system? How do I know if mine has it:dunno:
 

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Doh......I didn't realize there were different types of spring compressors, and the bone head at the parts store didn't ask. Looks like I'm dead in the water at the moment:Thumbdown:
 

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Thanks a million for this post. I installed H & R springs this weekend on the beast. I Had a couple of minor suggestions to add to an already wonderful DIY.

1. I had a difficult time loosening and removing the bolt holding the strut hat onto the strut. I found it slightly easier to loosen it a bit from the top before I loosened the 3 nuts holding the strut assembly to the car. Loossen it slightly DO NOT remove it!!!!

2 . I found it very difficult to pass the strut assembly under the fender. I found it much easier to compress the springs a little before I tried to pass them under the fender into the open.

3. It was easier for me to place body tape around the wheel well in order to protect it from scratches when I pulled the assembly out.

Very minor things that helped me, like I said a great DIY for someone that can turn a wrench. Took me 4-5 hours. I also found the rears were more difficult.
 

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There were concerns voiced about using new locking nuts and the 2 rear bolts since this thread was started. Found all new fasteners at:

https://www.BMWPartsUnlimited.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=215368 For $36.34 including shipping. Here's the part numbers you'll need:

2 Rear Shock Bolts Part Number: 33-50-6-779-488
6 Rear Mount Nuts Part Number: 07-11-9-905-374
6 Front Mount Nuts Part Number: 31-31-6-769-731

Torque specs:

Rear lower bolts: 122 ft lbs

Top nuts; Fronts: 35 ft lbs

Top nuts; Rears: 21 ft lbs
 

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Thank you for taking the time to post such a detailed and informative thread. I had my independent shop quote my $600 for a day and a half of labor to install springs. I figured he just hasn't had the experience to properly estimate the labor requirement. With the help of your writeup I think I will just make a nice Sunday project for myself. Thanks again!

-TZ
Hey TZ, have you done this to your beast yet? If not, let me know if you want to come down here one weekend and we'll do it together and I can code your beast while you're here. I 'm considering having H&R installed by a new shop that I like but it's hard for me to resist a DIY project.

PM me. Congrats again on your Muffler deletion.
 

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As others have said, great DIY write up. I did find the rears to be much harder than the fronts. Total time to do the install for all 4 corners was 8 hrs but 5 of them were on the rears. Love the look though with the Eibachs.
 

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I did my M5 today. Front went as planned but rear took a bit longer.
The M6 and the M5 are quite different when it comes to removing the rear strut out.

The upper strut mount on the M5 is very tight, big PITA. I don't know about the M6, maybe there is more clearance back there hence a coupe.

Once you are ready to pull it out you will need to remove the fender liner splash shield, it will not come out unless you remove that. You mentioned on the write up to push up but that thing is solid.

On the passenger side you also must remove the Huge evap canister or you wont get anywhere. Look at the canister on the Upper left of the picture below, and the fender's liner removed as I mentioned.




Here is a picture of the finished job. Sits just perfect. I was planning to install the fronts only, but you must definitely install all 4 IMO. Car looks perfect.

 

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Job took me 4.5 hours all 4 corners.
1 Hour alone trying to remove the first rear strut on the passenger side without removing the EVAP canister, impossible. Don't try it.

Here is a pic of the messy rear job.



I'm doing another M5 next weekend, this time I'll complete the job in 2-3 hours.
 
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