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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm did a search on the forums and didn't find a good DIY on spring installation. Here is how I did mine.

Distance from ground to bottom of fender at centerline of wheel:

Before:
FR=2.360', FL=2.355', RR=2.355', RL=2.360'
After Eibhack install and one trip around the block:
FR=2.295', FL=2.295', RR=TBA, RL=TBA
After one week:
FR=TBA, FL=TBA, RR=TBA, RL=TBA

You need to rent a spring compressor and you need a large adjustable wrench (or possibly a 1 inch cresant wrench). The rest you can do yourself. No need for a second person, removing the rotor, caliper or even removing the shock.

1. Loosen all 5 lug nuts. Do not remove.

2. Jack up the left front. Use a jack stand for safety.

3. Open the hood and locate the top of the strut tower.



4. A bar clip holds on the cabin filter.



5. One star screw and a few plastic clips hold on the rest of the plastic parts. Turn the plastic clips 90 degrees with a 13mm socket. Expose the brake booster.



6. Unclip EDC harness. Remove the plastic ring to expose the 3 strut tower nuts.



7. Unclip the harness from the top of the strut by pulling it up. Do not rotate.



8. Remove the wheel.




8. Unbolt the brake lines attached to the shock. 18mm nut.




9. Unbolt the swap bar end links to the shock. 18mm and 16mm.



10. Unbolt all 3 strut tower bolts under the hood. 13mm nuts.

11. Here is the timing saving part. Don't mess with the rotor, caliper or shock. Compress the spring with the compressor. Put a towel over the top of the strut. Take your time and wiggle the the assembly forward. Pull up on the fender while pushing down on the strut assembly. It does take some time but just barely passes under the fender. I did it by myself but if you're worried about scratching the fender, here is the part you want a friend to help for 10 seconds.



12. If you compressed the spring correctly you should be able to rotate the spring while its on the assembly. You need two wrenches to remove the top mounting plate, adjustable (or maybe 1 inch) and a 12mm. Turn the 1 inch counterclockwise and the 12mm clockwise. Everything comes off when the nut is removed.







13. You don't need the spring compressor to install the Eibach springs and probably any spring that lowers 1 inch. The threads will catch if you push down a bit.



14. Retighten the 1 inch and 12mm bolts. You should have 5-6 threads left exposed.

15. Use the towel again to get the assembly under the fender. Use a jack to push up on the rotor. Align the 3 strut tower studs as you jack up the suspension.



16. Reverse steps 10 through 1 to reassemble.

17. Repeat steps 1 through 16 for the passenger side, its exactly the same. I did not remove the headlight leveler rod.


 

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Thanks for the post, it's very helpful.
Not removing the strut from the car is a time saver.

A few comments:

1. The brake rotor and brake line bracket can be left installed. The brake lines and ABS cables can be popped loose from the bracket. There will be just enough slack to angle the strut outward. The strut must be supported to prevent damage to the brake lines (a rope or cargo strap can be used).

2. Disconnecting the sway bar makes it easier to slip the strut under the fender.

3. On the right side, disconnect the headlight level sensor. It is a small rod connected to a control arm.

4. The large nut on the top of the strut can be difficult to remove. An air impact wrench is the easiest way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the post, it's very helpful.
Not removing the strut from the car is a time saver.

A few comments:

1. The brake rotor and brake line bracket can be left installed. The brake lines and ABS cables can be popped loose from the bracket. There will be just enough slack to angle the strut outward. The strut must be supported to prevent damage to the brake lines (a rope or cargo strap can be used).

2. Disconnecting the sway bar makes it easier to slip the strut under the fender.

3. On the right side, disconnect the headlight level sensor. It is a small rod connected to a control arm.

4. The large nut on the top of the strut can be difficult to remove. An air impact wrench is the easiest way.
Hey Clyde.

1. Agreed, I had originally removed the caliper. You don't need to remove it at all. I edited my post.

2. I actually did that on the driver side, but I thought it was an unnecessary step. It actually is necessary and I added to my post.

3. I didn't disconnect the level sensor. I was fine.

4. I had no problems with the top nut. PB blaster would probably help if you do.

Thanks,
Dennis
 

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Lowering springs will reduce suspension travel, and the Dinan website has a whitepaper devoted to this subject.
Dinan modifies the upper strut mount to increase travel, and a DIYer could do something similar.

Perform at your own risk:
1. Cut 1/3" from the bottom of the upper mount. (modified Dinan part removed 0.32")
2. Add a thick hardened washer under the nut at the top of the strut, otherwise the nut will run out of threads. (Dinan washer was 0.21" thick)
3. Use a bump stop from an E36 M3

The E36 M3 bump stops can also be used in the rear.
Dinan completely replaces the upper rear mount, so there is no easy way to do something similar.

First photo is the Dinan mounts and washers. Second photo is OEM on the left, Dinan on right.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Can a moderator move this to post #2? I didn't know the edit had a time limit.


Before:
FR=2.360', FL=2.355', RR=2.355', RL=2.360'
After Eibhack install and one trip around the block:
FR=2.295', FL=2.295', RR=2.310', RL=2.305'
After one week:
FR=TBA, FL=TBA, RR=TBA, RL=TBA


The rears are much easier than the fronts and should take less than half the time.

1. Loosen all 5 lug nuts. Do not remove.

2. Jack up the rear. I used the differential. Use jack stands for safety.

3. Open the trunk. Remove the rear plastic plate by popping off the buttons to access the phillips screws. There are also 2 90 degree plastic clips at the bottom.



4. Unscrew the plastic caps holding the base of the trunk liner.

5. Pull the trunk seal away from the trunk liner.

6. Unclip the trunk liner at the post.



7. Pull the 2 pins holding the truck liner at the top.



8. The fuel door emergency lever easily unclips from the inside. Ignore this step for the driver's side.



9. Unclip the EDC wire going to the strut tower.



10. Pull the insulation to the side to access the top of the strut tower.



11. Remove the wheel. There is one 18mm bolt securing the base of the strut. This is hard to access and requires a lot of torque. See the picture below for the best method I found. I am using 2 crestant wrenches.



12. Once the bolt is completely removed give the strut a tap with a hammer and it drops down.



13. Push up on the fender liner to clear the top of the strut. Becareful of the wiring connnection and its out.





14. Use the spring compressor to compress the spring.



15. Once you are sure the spring is compressed, unscrew the top mounting plate. Use a 18mm and 5/16 inch cresant wrenches. Once the 18mm nut is removed, it all comes apart.



16. Install the new spring.



17. Push down on the top plate and the 18mm nut will grap the threads. You don't need the spring compressor to install.



18. Reverse steps 13 through 1 and you are finished.
 

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Excellent diy. Looks like it's time to order my springs now!

By chance do you have the torque specs for everything.....or do you know if they are listed somewhere?
 

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EXCELLENT DIY!!! Two more questions for you:

Armed with this tutorial, how long should it take to do the fronts? The rears?

Also, where can I get the spring compressors?


Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
EXCELLENT DIY!!! Two more questions for you:

Armed with this tutorial, how long should it take to do the fronts? The rears?

Also, where can I get the spring compressors?


Thanks again!

Well its not a race. I always see people saying to takes the X amount of time and sometimes it takes me 2x or 3x longer. I think with this DIY an average person can do the fronts in 4 hours and the rears in 2 hours.

I got the spring compressor at autozone rented for $50. I think think any auto parts store that rents tools would have it. Autozone was just my first try and they had it.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Excellent diy. Looks like it's time to order my springs now!

By chance do you have the torque specs for everything.....or do you know if they are listed somewhere?
I don't have any specs. If anyone has them, let me know. I've done enough work to know about how tight to make a bolt. Most of these bolts I would have a big problem reaching with my torque wrench anyways.
 

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I emailed my contact at Bavauto and he had this to say about the torque specs......

"For torque specs all I have to go by is the 5 series stuff but it should all be the same.
Front-
Control arms (both upper and lower) and tie rods to steering knuckle - 122 ft lbs
Strut assembly pinch bolt - 60 ft lbs
Upper shock mount to body nuts - 35 ft lbs

Rear -

Lower shock to suspension - 122 ft lbs
Upper mount to body - 21 ft lbs"
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I emailed my contact at Bavauto and he had this to say about the torque specs......

"For torque specs all I have to go by is the 5 series stuff but it should all be the same.
Front-
Control arms (both upper and lower) and tie rods to steering knuckle - 122 ft lbs
Strut assembly pinch bolt - 60 ft lbs
Upper shock mount to body nuts - 35 ft lbs

Rear -

Lower shock to suspension - 122 ft lbs
Upper mount to body - 21 ft lbs"

Thanks for the info. BTW, i got you PM a few weeks ago. I tried to reply but your PMs were turned off. I didn't want you to think I was ignoring you.
 

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Thanks for the info. BTW, i got you PM a few weeks ago. I tried to reply but your PMs were turned off. I didn't want you to think I was ignoring you.
No worries........someone else told me the same thing about not being able to send me PM's.......it's weird, I can send, but can't receive. I guess I should research this.
 

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How's the ride quality with the Eibachs?
 

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just ordered mine......should be here towards the end of the week:thumbsup:

Have yours settled any more yet?
 
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