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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did a search and had no luck...

Id like to change my brake pads myself.. anyone know of a DIY so I can figure out how to do so in the proper manner.. Even a thread on how to change pads out would be enuff

thanks!
 

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I did a search and had no luck...

Id like to change my brake pads myself.. anyone know of a DIY so I can figure out how to do so in the proper manner.. Even a thread on how to change pads out would be enuff

thanks!
Replacement brake pads are included in the maintanance. I understand wanting to do it yourself, but why bare the cost and time when it's covered?

??????
 

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'DUH' to me for not opening the pdf files supplied by Clyde first, but they make it look a little complicated.

You can do one corner at a time:

1) Jack the corner and use a jackstand please.

2) There are two plastic plugs covering the two caliber bolts (on the back side of the caliper), which are 7MM hex (don't know what the files are talking about with a special BMW tool). Loosen those bolts, you don't need to pull them out all the way.

3) Gently remove the wear sensor by wiggling it off the pad. It is typically green, but just follow the small wire to the pad regardless of what color it may be.

4) Pop the spring clips off with a screwdriver. The fronts are a combination of unfinished metal and black painted metal. Push toward the rear of the car and they pop off. The rears are only unfinished metal. There is an arrow on those telling you which way to push them (I forget).

5) Before sliding the caliper off pull the caliper with hard steady pressure toward you (away from car) to push the piston back in, or use a caliper pusher if you have one.

6) Replace the pads, tighten the bolts, replace the plugs, replace the spring clips, replace the sensors. You're done.

Takes about 10-15 minutes per corner once you've done it a couple of times. Rotors are held in place by a couple of smaller hex bolts if you are replacing those at the same time. It would be pretty obvious which ones they are.

But for full proper maintenance, inspection of all parts, etc. (not to mention it is free), best to let the dealership cover it under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks TTallion, I may just do this myself..

2 Questions:...

What are the proper torque specs for those caliper hex bolts?

and Be, as for Bleeding, is the 2 person system where you pump the brake safe to use, or is a pressure bleeder much better in this case..

thanks
 

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Thanks TTallion, I may just do this myself..

2 Questions:...

What are the proper torque specs for those caliper hex bolts?

and Be, as for Bleeding, is the 2 person system where you pump the brake safe to use, or is a pressure bleeder much better in this case..

thanks
I don't have the torque setting handy and don't want to guess on that one. To be honest, I just go by feel and make sure they are pretty snug. I know proper torque is the best way to go, but...

The caliper bolts (called guides in the instruction file) have threads that end against the flat surface of the smooth part of the guide. It would be hard to over tighten them unless you were really pulling on it. And I've never had one seize up on me either.

I personally do not trust the pressure bleeders. I know the dealerships use them and sometimes I let them do it for the sake of time. But every time I bleed it myself (two person method) after the dealership has done it I find bubbles in the lines. Now maybe that is them not taking their time or whatever, but I only use the two person system, taking time to tap the caliper with a rubber mallet while bleeding, and don't stop until all fluid that comes out is clear and free of any bubbles.
 

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Anyone Know the Proper Brake Bleed Pattern for Our Cars Specifically?...
I go furthest to closest the reservoir...passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. (I'm talking a left-hand drive car.)

The reservoir is under the air filter boxes right under the windshield on the driver side. There are two little torx screws, two metal clips, and about 8 plastic hex locks (8mm) to get the air filter boxes removed. The hex locks don't come out, they just loosen half a turn. Be careful not to drop the torx screws or your tools. They won't fall all the way through and you'll spend an hour under the car removing under-panels to get them back. I speak from experience. ouich
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
now ive read 3 different peoples opinion on the bleeding pattern, so im a bit lost..

As for doing all that work on the MC, cant i just open the cap of the Brake Fluid Resouvier under the hood, over fill it a bit and bleed.. Never in my past bleeding of brakes have I ever actualy worked on opening up the master cyclinder and taken off bolts etc....
 

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now ive read 3 different peoples opinion on the bleeding pattern, so im a bit lost..

As for doing all that work on the MC, cant i just open the cap of the Brake Fluid Resouvier under the hood, over fill it a bit and bleed.. Never in my past bleeding of brakes have I ever actualy worked on opening up the master cyclinder and taken off bolts etc....
Sorry if my post was misleading. I may have called the reservoir the master cylinder at some point. What I was referring to is the reservoir. It is just a PITA to get to. All those screws and lock nuts are all just to get to the reservoir. On the M5 anyway.

I was taught to bleed furthest to closest, but I also heard it didn't really matter as long as you did rears first, then fronts. I always follow RR, LR, RF, LF.
 

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If you are just changing the pads you shouldn't need to bleed the brakes as no air should get in the system. I leave the old bad on the caliper side and use a c- clamp to push the piston back. You might want to take the cap off of the reservoir if you have topped it off when it got a little low. Put a couple rags under it as fluid may come out. On my 7 series I had to change the rotors at the same time I replaced the pad, don't know if the brakes wear the same on the M5. Hope this helps.
 

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It seems in the USA, you guys can have pads changed under the extended warranty but I just purchased extended warranty for my 55 e60 m5 and it says wear and tear including brakes, pads and discs are not covered. When i went to change my pads it seems the way the sensor is designed means it is going off when there is more than 50% of life left in the pads. Can anyone shed some light on this issue ?
 

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It seems in the USA, you guys can have pads changed under the extended warranty but I just purchased extended warranty for my 55 e60 m5 and it says wear and tear including brakes, pads and discs are not covered. When i went to change my pads it seems the way the sensor is designed means it is going off when there is more than 50% of life left in the pads. Can anyone shed some light on this issue ?
I don't know of any extended warranty that covers pads or disk. The extended maintenance plan does cover wear items. I have my car on the lift for the winter, The wheels could probably use a good cleaning so I might pull off the wheels and take a look at the brake system to see if I can offer any constructive advice.
 

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Thanks for instructions and manuals! I just changed by pads to Carbotech Pads, after 62K miles the stocks were done. This saved me lots of money as my car is out of warranty and my extended warranty didn't cover brakes. A question; I replaced the front and rear wear sensors and I reset the service indicator, but the "Change Rear Brakes" service reminder still comes on, no matter how many times I reset it (Ignition on, pressing trip counter, resetting). It reset fine when I changed my oil, but the brakes won't reset and I even replaced the wear sensors with OEM. Anyone know what I can do? The warnings are pretty annoying and I hate seeing the brake light on the dash. Dealer wants $$ to 'properly' reset the code (what a load of crap).
 

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From your post I take it that you changed all 4 wheels, did the front brakes reset. If so try switch the sensors, maybe you got a defective sensor. just wondering other members said that even though they got the change pads indicator that there was still a lot of pad left was that so in your case. If you did have a lot of pad left did you wear the sensor down or was the computer just guessing that the pads needed changing. One other thought did you check the rotor to make sure it met the factory minimum specs. Did you ask the stealer how much they charged to reset the indicator. It may be worth a peake tool, when I bought one to reset the service lights on the 740 it was only about a $100. Let us know what you found out.
 

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Thanks for the reply! My friend had a gauge that checks rotors and it's within normal wear, but the sensors were cut deep enough to trip the sensor and break the circuit. Yeah I changed all 4 wheels and replaced all sensors, the pads had between 1/8 and 1/4 inch left on them. The Carbotechs are awesome so far. Sucks the extended warranty doesn't cover these things, I'm just holding off until the next gen M5 rolls out :cool: Where did you get the peake tool? That might be a better investment since I do all my maintenance myself on my cars (when they are out of warranty of course). Thanks!
 

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I think it's a bunch of BS that BMW doesn't provide a easy way to reset things that owners with a little knowledge can do themselves, and even when they do they hide the way to do from the genral populace. It should be in the owners manual. As far as the Peake tool it was a few years ago and I don't remember where I got it, might have even got it on e-bay. If you want the tool go to their web site and find the model number for the tool you need then run a search on the net to get the best price. I have decided a new route since I work on a lot of my family's cars with a wide range of different makes. I bought a cheap laptop off e-bay, I think I paid less than $200 for it and got some OBDII software for it so I can monitor how the car is working as I'm going down the road. Haven't had a chance to use it yet but I hope it does everything that I need it to.
 

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Thanks for the reply! My friend had a gauge that checks rotors and it's within normal wear, but the sensors were cut deep enough to trip the sensor and break the circuit. Yeah I changed all 4 wheels and replaced all sensors, the pads had between 1/8 and 1/4 inch left on them. The Carbotechs are awesome so far. Sucks the extended warranty doesn't cover these things, I'm just holding off until the next gen M5 rolls out :cool: Where did you get the peake tool? That might be a better investment since I do all my maintenance myself on my cars (when they are out of warranty of course). Thanks!

Well my "check break linings" warning just came on yesterday. BMW, BMW shops(private), or brake masters want to change out the pads,rotors and sensors. Now I know that no one could know for certain what would need to be changed out, but if the sensors are good and the rotors can be turned, could'nt I just change out the pads??
Or is it that once the senors read "check brake linings" they would need to be changed out.
 
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