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Those of us looking into these as of now have seen that either the kits such as from cicretrofit.com are NLA, or just the head units are $800+. However the interwebs are teeming with CIC units from other models, and they're cheap, usually <$200. The source of these is usually E9x cars, I've discovered, but anything that had a CIC had the same boards and software. Mounting points and faceplates vary but you can mix & match. These work with the E60 chassis, it just takes a little work to get them there.

The main issue is the faceplate - the E9x and other units don't fit. See here:
View attachment 950790

I bought the correct faceplate, PN# 65839206068 for $150 on FCP Euro. The tabs didn't line up perfectly on the E90 so I just added some double sided tape to the back of the tabs, rested it in there, and it fit snugly and works fine. I also installed an LCI IHKA, which requires its own coding/updating, but you have to ground pin 21 or your AC won't work right. I did this by removing pin 21, cut & strip a bit, cut a bit of jacketing off pin 26 (which is a ground) and soldered it on there. There are other ways I've seen this done, but that's how I did it and it worked just fine.

View attachment 953678

Of course I insulated the wiring after I took this photo, but this is all that's needed to make the LCI IHKA work in a pre-LCI car.

View attachment 950791

The head unit I bought came out of a 2013 335i. I looked at its connections and specifically at its sticker in the lower right corner of the unit. One of the things you'll probably notice is if you look real close at a E60 LCI head unit, is they are putting a part number sticker over the manufacturer sticker. See here:
View attachment 950792
This is the one I bought from an E90:
View attachment 950793

This clued me in that hey, maybe these things are all the same, and the only difference is what version of software is on it. Turns out that this is in fact the case. Other instructions talk about using ICOMs to program in version C1A, but that requires an ICOM and a lot of effort - it's easier to clone a drive with C1A already on it. Those little screws you see in the above picture are what hold that hard drive in place. If you're pulling it out, be prepared to pry a bit - sometimes they're really stuck in there.

The only thing you have to know is that the head units that came in other cars had different gateway firmware. The software itself is the same. If you don't do the gateway firmware update, you'll run into this weird situation where your IHKA won't talk to your CIC correctly, and you won't be able to adjust your vents / air stratification. While you must code it for your car, no amount of coding will fix the air vent issue - it's specific to each model. The instructions to do this programming are in post #6 below.

The pre-LCI iDrive controller will spaz out on you as well. Winkfp can help you out if you don't feel like replacing it and hacking up your center console. You can choose to downgrade the ZBEH60 (last thing in the "choose custom file" list in winkfp) by programming the older of the two options shown here:
View attachment 953677

Or you can go with an LCI center console and wire up the 6 button controller. I've been told the CAN frames from our older controllers don't play well with some carplay units, so YMMV on that one.

View attachment 950795
Those of us looking into these as of now have seen that either the kits such as from cicretrofit.com are NLA, or just the head units are $800+. However the interwebs are teeming with CIC units from other models, and they're cheap, usually <$200. The source of these is usually E9x cars, I've discovered, but anything that had a CIC had the same boards and software. Mounting points and faceplates vary but you can mix & match. These work with the E60 chassis, it just takes a little work to get them there.

The main issue is the faceplate - the E9x and other units don't fit. See here:
View attachment 950790

I bought the correct faceplate, PN# 65839206068 for $150 on FCP Euro. The tabs didn't line up perfectly on the E90 so I just added some double sided tape to the back of the tabs, rested it in there, and it fit snugly and works fine. I also installed an LCI IHKA, which requires its own coding/updating, but you have to ground pin 21 or your AC won't work right. I did this by removing pin 21, cut & strip a bit, cut a bit of jacketing off pin 26 (which is a ground) and soldered it on there. There are other ways I've seen this done, but that's how I did it and it worked just fine.

View attachment 953678

Of course I insulated the wiring after I took this photo, but this is all that's needed to make the LCI IHKA work in a pre-LCI car.

View attachment 950791

The head unit I bought came out of a 2013 335i. I looked at its connections and specifically at its sticker in the lower right corner of the unit. One of the things you'll probably notice is if you look real close at a E60 LCI head unit, is they are putting a part number sticker over the manufacturer sticker. See here:
View attachment 950792
This is the one I bought from an E90:
View attachment 950793

This clued me in that hey, maybe these things are all the same, and the only difference is what version of software is on it. Turns out that this is in fact the case. Other instructions talk about using ICOMs to program in version C1A, but that requires an ICOM and a lot of effort - it's easier to clone a drive with C1A already on it. Those little screws you see in the above picture are what hold that hard drive in place. If you're pulling it out, be prepared to pry a bit - sometimes they're really stuck in there.

The only thing you have to know is that the head units that came in other cars had different gateway firmware. The software itself is the same. If you don't do the gateway firmware update, you'll run into this weird situation where your IHKA won't talk to your CIC correctly, and you won't be able to adjust your vents / air stratification. While you must code it for your car, no amount of coding will fix the air vent issue - it's specific to each model. The instructions to do this programming are in post #6 below.

The pre-LCI iDrive controller will spaz out on you as well. Winkfp can help you out if you don't feel like replacing it and hacking up your center console. You can choose to downgrade the ZBEH60 (last thing in the "choose custom file" list in winkfp) by programming the older of the two options shown here:
View attachment 953677

Or you can go with an LCI center console and wire up the 6 button controller. I've been told the CAN frames from our older controllers don't play well with some carplay units, so YMMV on that one.

View attachment 950795
I have the same problem now but beside IHKA my AUX volume is always on low and a lot of settings seem unavailable. I added #0909 and $6VA to CIC.
 

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HELP !

I followed all the steps but after the first load I got this error.

Error 211: Error on Flash programming
COPAI error entries:
Code 2089 Level PABD Module 06FLASH Procedure Programmern Index 2544 Text Switching programming mode failed. 10FLASH,DIAGNOSE_MODE,ERROR_ECU_SECURITY_ACCESS_DE NIED__SECURITY_ACESS_REQUESTED

And my CIC does not work anymore.
What can I do ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
HELP !

I followed all the steps but after the first load I got this error.

Error 211: Error on Flash programming
COPAI error entries:
Code 2089 Level PABD Module 06FLASH Procedure Programmern Index 2544 Text Switching programming mode failed. 10FLASH,DIAGNOSE_MODE,ERROR_ECU_SECURITY_ACCESS_DE NIED__SECURITY_ACESS_REQUESTED

And my CIC does not work anymore.
What can I do ?
Did you use a generic cable or a Bimmergeeks / patched cable? You really want a proper cable for doing this, the chinese ones are known for writing garbage data. Also what is your car's production date?
 

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Did you use a generic cable or a Bimmergeeks / patched cable? You really want a proper cable for doing this, the chinese ones are known for writing garbage data. Also what is your car's production date?
I think is a good cable this guy thats sells them gives all the info and helps out only that he is in holiday atm. 03/09 is my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I think is a good cable this guy thats sells them gives all the info and helps out only that he is in holiday atm. 03/09 is my car.
The cable matters, also COM port settings. Same thing happens to people doing the Euro SMG flash when the cable is wonky. COM1 max baud rate and latency timer should be set to 1. Also bootsector update should be active
 

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The cable matters, also COM port settings. Same thing happens to people doing the Euro SMG flash when the cable is wonky. COM1 max baud rate and latency timer should be set to 1. Also bootsector update should be active
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
What version of the sp-daten files are you using? Did you fully update winkfp with a current version (like v60+) and use the BMW coding tool in the Standard Tools download from Bimmergeeks? There are a lot of prerequisites here and this guide assumes you are competent with Winkfp already.
 

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What version of the sp-daten files are you using? Did you fully update winkfp with a current version (like v60+) and use the BMW coding tool in the Standard Tools download from Bimmergeeks? There are a lot of prerequisites here and this guide assumes you are competent with Winkfp already.
Yes I have 68.1. I just switch to another cable and get diff error 209 about UIF.
 

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What version of the sp-daten files are you using? Did you fully update winkfp with a current version (like v60+) and use the BMW coding tool in the Standard Tools download from Bimmergeeks? There are a lot of prerequisites here and this guide assumes you are competent with Winkfp already.
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Op,

Here is a solution to fit the front panel perfectly alignment with the faceplate.

I will also be using an E9x unit in my retro fit.

That gap will kill me.




 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Hey that's a great idea. I will probably do that next time I have it apart. What size nut did you use?
 

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There is plenty 2010 CIC models from E60's out there. I think I paid like $400 for CIC + screen + controller. Combox is another $100. I also bought and amp and speakers to retrofit logic 7 setup. Don't pay 2000+ for kits, its stupid expensive.

Update to C1A patch using intels patcher to install all the certificates and off you go. No emulators.

Don't flash units without ICOM and real power supply. The files are huge and it will fail 95% of the time without it.
 

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There is plenty 2010 CIC models from E60's out there. I think I paid like $400 for CIC + screen + controller. Combox is another $100. I also bought and amp and speakers to retrofit logic 7 setup. Don't pay 2000+ for kits, its stupid expensive.

Update to C1A patch using intels patcher to install all the certificates and off you go. No emulators.

Don't flash units without ICOM and real power supply. The files are huge and it will fail 95% of the time without it.
An E60 CIC alone is minimum 400$ with the radio controls - no screens, no controllers, no center console trim, no faceplate, no radio cables, no combox, no USB/AUX cable, no Combox adapter wiring.

Combox with USB/AUX
E60 CIC without Faceplate
E60 CIC with Screen and Controller

People should be aware that coding isn't the easy task it's said to be here. There are so many threads about CIC retrofits gone wrong when people try to piece meal these kits together. Threads like these are indexed by Google and viewed by many.

There's definite value in paying the 2,000$ + for a true plug and play kit that comes pre-coded to your VIN with parts that are warrantied and vetted by the coder you pick. I had no interest in bricking my E60 M5 and dealing with never ending iDrive coding errors. DIY coders won't help you when that happens.

The proper advice should be to research carefully both options and go per your budget, skills, and risk sensitivity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
That combox is way too expensive, @SeattleAggie just scooped one for less than $100. The price on that screen/CIC/controller kit isn't bad though honestly. Unless you're local to a european scrap yard you're likely to pay about that for the three parts, and an E60 CIC is nice since you don't have to go into flashing the gateway.

Coding and flashing are definitely for the more technically minded people. If you don't know how to run a VM, configure a COM port, and other basic PC computer operations you're going to struggle with it no matter how detailed a guide is.
 

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That combox is way too expensive, @SeattleAggie just scooped one for less than $100. The price on that screen/CIC/controller kit isn't bad though honestly. Unless you're local to a european scrap yard you're likely to pay about that for the three parts, and an E60 CIC is nice since you don't have to go into flashing the gateway.

Coding and flashing are definitely for the more technically minded people. If you don't know how to run a VM, configure a COM port, and other basic PC computer operations you're going to struggle with it no matter how detailed a guide is.
Pricing includes the Combox USB/AUX socket cable to run to the center console - a surprisingly expensive cable and module.
 

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$150 and there is like 20 for sale all over the junkyards. I am sure you can get screen and unit for less than $300

$400 with controller.

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