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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Those of us looking into these as of now have seen that either the kits such as from cicretrofit.com are NLA, or just the head units are $800+. However the interwebs are teeming with CIC units from other models, and they're cheap, usually <$200. The source of these is usually E9x cars, I've discovered, but anything that had a CIC had the same boards and software. Mounting points and faceplates vary but you can mix & match. These work with the E60 chassis, it just takes a little work to get them there.

The main issue is the faceplate - the E9x and other units don't fit. See here:
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I bought the correct faceplate, PN# 65839206068 for $150 on FCP Euro. The tabs didn't line up perfectly on the E90 so I just added some double sided tape to the back of the tabs, rested it in there, and it fit snugly and works fine. I also installed an LCI IHKA, which requires its own coding/updating, but you have to ground pin 21 or your AC won't work right. I did this by removing pin 21, cut & strip a bit, cut a bit of jacketing off pin 26 (which is a ground) and soldered it on there. There are other ways I've seen this done, but that's how I did it and it worked just fine.

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Of course I insulated the wiring after I took this photo, but this is all that's needed to make the LCI IHKA work in a pre-LCI car.

950791


The head unit I bought came out of a 2013 335i. I looked at its connections and specifically at its sticker in the lower right corner of the unit. One of the things you'll probably notice is if you look real close at a E60 LCI head unit, is they are putting a part number sticker over the manufacturer sticker. See here:
950792

This is the one I bought from an E90:
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This clued me in that hey, maybe these things are all the same, and the only difference is what version of software is on it. Turns out that this is in fact the case. Other instructions talk about using ICOMs to program in version C1A, but that requires an ICOM and a lot of effort - it's easier to clone a drive with C1A already on it. Those little screws you see in the above picture are what hold that hard drive in place. If you're pulling it out, be prepared to pry a bit - sometimes they're really stuck in there.

The only thing you have to know is that the head units that came in other cars had different gateway firmware. The software itself is the same. If you don't do the gateway firmware update, you'll run into this weird situation where your IHKA won't talk to your CIC correctly, and you won't be able to adjust your vents / air stratification. While you must code it for your car, no amount of coding will fix the air vent issue - it's specific to each model. The instructions to do this programming are in post #6 below.

The pre-LCI iDrive controller will spaz out on you as well. Winkfp can help you out if you don't feel like replacing it and hacking up your center console. You can choose to downgrade the ZBEH60 (last thing in the "choose custom file" list in winkfp) by programming the older of the two options shown here:
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Or you can go with an LCI center console and wire up the 6 button controller. I've been told the CAN frames from our older controllers don't play well with some carplay units, so YMMV on that one.

950795
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
And an extra 100 for a combox to finally stream BT. At least that was the going ebay rate when I got mine.
I was hoping to just stream using carplay and skip the combox. Is there any downside you're aware of doing it that way?
 

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Can somebody please give me a part # for aluminum brushed lci center console ?

Thanks for the write up man can't wait to get rid of the ccc unit
 

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Excellent write up. Thank you for posting
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Forget the ICOM, forget everything you read. There are two things that matter here - what's on the CIC's little hard drive, and what's in the gateway. The CIC hard drives are just QNX running without any real customization, everything that controls it is done in coding which has nothing to do with what's on the drive. It's an OS and your MP3 collection, that's about it. You upload your FSC to it if you care to have navigation, but I didn't because I use my phone for that and a carplay retrofit box is a better option.

The main thing that matters is the gateway. Those of you who have gotten this far have realized that most of the junkyard E90 CIC's have C16 or C1A already. That's the part you would need the ICOM for, however it's something you can simply clone over from another hard drive if you don't have it. No need to go messing with the MOST port etc. A USB to mini IDE adapter and Macrium Reflect are all you really need if you are wanting to copy someone else's later software.

To flash your gateway:
You still need to have the E60 SP-Daten files loaded in Winkfp. You can do this with a K+DCAN cable and a regular power supply, don't flash anything with Winkfp unless you have at least a full battery and a charger hooked up.

The module to flash is called CI62F1 in the Winkfp interface. Open Winkfp, click "Comfort" then "Choose custom file"
You will be greeted by a screen that looks like this:
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I've already selected CI62F1 here and you'll note that there's only one gateway firmware. Hit "Enter VIN" and put your VIN in there. Click done.
Once you're at the next screen, hit program (prog.ZB-update in some versions)
You'll need to wait at least 10 minutes - you will see it go through the update twice. The reason it does it twice is that it's flashing both the bootloader, then the firmware. Winkfp will also appear to hang - just leave it alone until you see the "Programming OK" button come up. At this point you will see a black screen and hear your CIC fan running full blast. Turn off your charger, disconnect the K+DCAN Cable, and then disconnect your battery for 2 minutes.

Once you've done this and reconnect the battery, you will find that the system boots normally. You are done at this point. One weird thing I noticed is that INPA still showed the old ZB Number in the UIF readout, but I verified that the things that weren't working had been resolved, and the "no communication with headunit" error went away in ISTA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
When I first did this I broke the E90 head unit I had with the Chinese ICOM clone I had. Then I realized that the E70s have the right CIC but the wrong housing, so I just grabbed one of those. They're cheap too and with both being cheap, I simply moved the boards over and coded for E60. I still had to flash the gateway but that was just a 20 minute process.
Wood Gas Machine Engineering Metal

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Silly but it works and still costs 1/3 of a used E60 CIC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Since I'm starting a little collection of BMW radio bits now, I'm waiting on a new (older gray & orange, the Next's have trouble) ICOM. This week I did the combox, and it was needlessly frustrating. The wiring instructions out there are hard to follow because most of the writeups online are about E90s and E70s. I've attached a PDF of a wiring diagram I edited to match what was in my 2006.

And because BMW telematics and other cell based services are on networks that no longer exist (2g is gone, 3g too) there's no reason to bother with hooking up the antennas coming off our TCU/MULF modules. Don't worry about the options you see - find a combox that says BN2000 on it (not BN2010) and you're set.

The coding part doesn't need to be as difficult as people make it out to be either. You don't need to rewrite the FA onto the CAS or LMA. All that really happens in NCS is that there is a check for different revision dates to enable the coding of certain modules, use a revision before a module was added when the cars were being built, and it won't show up. That is what the addition of #0909 (September 2009) means in the FA editing. For example, I used #0908 to retrofit a spare CHAMP headunit I had to work in my 530i.

Any coding you do is specific to the module, and will stay with the module, not the rest of the car. The fastest way to do this is to simply add in the changeover date to a file that uses an .ssd extension. This is what's in my E60_CIC.ssd file:

M E60_CODIERSCHL ALL
A 001 YOUR_VIN_HERE_WITH_CHECKSUM E60_#0909&X2SW%0A08*NB93$1CA$216$302$319$322$403$415$416$430$431$441$442$453$459$473$494$4MA$4ME$4MF$502$508$522$524$534$540$563$609$610$620$644$645$655$672$677$697$6VA$754$818$845$850$853$876$925$992$9AA-A090


If you don't know what the checksum is, select your chassis in NCS and it'll populate it for you as it reads your car.
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And this is the text in my E90_MEDIA.ssd file:
M E90_CODIERSCHL ALL
A 001 WBAPP31030A7502352 E90_*PR96#0910%0475&LUSW$1CA$216$302$319$322$403$423$430$431$441$442$459$473$488$494$4AD$502$508$522$524$534$540$563$609$610$614$615$616$620$644$645$655$672$677$697$6VC$6FL$6nf$6nr$6aa$6ab$6va$754$785$7SP$818$845$850$853$876$925$992$9AA-A090


Note that I didn't change the VIN, that's intentional. The combox, called MEDIA in NCS, doesn't need your VIN to work. More importantly, NCS won't even show you the MEDIA module if it thinks it's coding an E60. When you go to code, you'll see the modules are all E90 modules shown, and that's because the combox was never included in the E60. We're simply telling NCS the car is an E90 so we can access that combox. To load these files, simply hit start, then open file. It'll populate the data needed to code and you can do your coding.

The file's option codes are showing everything, and if you default code it, it'll be set to the option codes listed above. I found that I had to manually change a bunch of switches in the TELEMATIK section of the CIC. You have to change everything you see to use "combox" etc. I'll attach a working trace file for the C16 revision of the CIC, this was a real pain. If you're on a different variation, just change what you can to match it. Use the text file I attached and change the extension back to .TRC to read it out in NCS Dummy. It isn't perfect but it got everything working. Only thing I can't figure out is why the upper right of the screen shows negative numbers seemingly randomly.
 

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Great post dasvolk, hope you get what you want to achieve.

what is the case of the ICOM issue and why you ordering the old A2 or the old diagnostic head?
Are they original or clones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Great post dasvolk, hope you get what you want to achieve.

what is the case of the ICOM issue and why you ordering the old A2 or the old diagnostic head?
Are they original or clones.
Thanks, I got my bluetooth streaming and that's all I wanted. The ICOM Next have some problems where they will not work, or die mid-flash, and the one I had was an "updated" clone. The firmware version on it was current, and its diag screen sure looked like the real deal. But it wouldn't communicate on MOST no matter what I did to it. Outside of it complaining about a fan that wasn't there near as I could tell it was working, but that doesn't mean much when dealing with Chinese clone hardware.
 

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Wonderful. I already have read many bad stories about the Chinese clones, the yellow head unit you getting is going to be a clone or original, if clone I am afraid it would have issues as well. I am not a fan of technology Asian market. Some shops takes Chinese devices and rework the PCB but in ICOM I think the problem is the processor, it's completely different and the one they are using is not competent enough to run such a process and they overheat.
Let us know what comes along.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The combox Bluetooth is much faster to boot and connect. It also doesn't do that annoying thing where it stays connected to the car for ages after you've parked. Big improvement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Updated to remove the CHAMP faceplate info which ultimately only worked intermittently, and simplified the programming instructions.
 

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Now that you're all done and everything works - what would you expect (parts) to pay for all the bits you needed to make it work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Now that you're all done and everything works - what would you expect (parts) to pay for all the bits you needed to make it work?
CIC head unit off eBay will run you $140-180, screen is about $80, pink LVDS cable is $20, IHKA + radio bezel is about $80, and the faceplate is $150. So roughly $450, $550 if you add in the combox, about 40% of the price of the retrofit kit.

I did notice that you can find better deals with BMW part numbers sometimes. The scrap yards will often list by part number and the scalpers will use more common terms like BMW CIC E60. RealOEM is your friend for that one.
 

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This is my next DIY. Just got a full CIC retrofit kit with combox from Mike @ BPM. They are ultra rare with the proper parts these days.
Just curious why did you end up with BPM? Bimmer-tech is less $ from what i've seen when pricing them so curious if BPM offers something the others don't?
 

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Just curious why did you end up with BPM? Bimmer-tech is less $ from what i've seen when pricing them so curious if BPM offers something the others don't?
They are both similarly priced. BimmerTech is at 2,299$ depending on discounts. Mike is at 2399$ depending on discounts. I added the Combox and BMW apps too.

Most importantly, he has it in stock. These kits are becoming rarer than ever as some parts are difficult to source. Mike has worked miracles on coding for my E92 M3 by retrofitting M Drive on a non-iDrive car. I trust his abilities and his service is impeccable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have successfully done the gateway flash on another member's E60 with an E90 head unit. He also confirmed that his UIF showed the wrong ZUSB number, but his car now works. The only practical effect of this is that your bluetooth connection will have the last 5 digits of the donor car's VIN, otherwise everything will work fine.
 
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