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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all i ran a test on the Vanos banks 1 and 2.

Bank 1 failed and bank 2 passed.

Here are some pics taken from the test.
Can anyone advise?
 

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I had a similar result. Have you cleaned out the solenoids and fresh o rings on it yet? This cleaning and updating to new o rings fixed my vanos bank 1. Both bank now pass the vano test.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi thanks for your reply
No, I haven't touched anything as yet.
So if you've had sorted yours out with seals and cleaning then hopefully that'll work for me
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'll get some seals ordered and drop by Maplins for some diodes(1N4148) just on case.
Is there any better rated diodes which could be used instead of the 1N4148?
I have read through all the forum(s) posts and if I understand correctly the black line on the diode goes towards the black + wire ?
Also is it best to re position these diodes from the main board to the smaller board attached to the solenoids?




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I'll get some seals ordered and drop by Maplins for some diodes(1N4148) just on case.
Is there any better rated diodes which could be used instead of the 1N4148?
I have read through all the forum(s) posts and if I understand correctly the black line on the diode goes towards the black + wire ?
Also is it best to re position these diodes from the main board to the smaller board attached to the solenoids?




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I cant help you with anything further, because I had someone do this work. Pretty much my bank one was pretty clogged up. I also need to update my vanos solenoids covers. It shouldnt be hard to do those though.
 

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Any small signal diode will carry more current than a 1N4148. But they handle up to 200 mA. How much current do they need to control? They are certainly fast enough for the job.
 

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Any small signal diode will carry more current than a 1N4148. But they handle up to 200 mA. How much current do they need to control? They are certainly fast enough for the job.
I did some scope testing of a solenoid and an OEM MOV on the bench, manually switching 12V on and off.

The solenoid back-emf (no MOV) on opening the switch was -20V. The back emf was reduced to -0.5 V with the MOV in parallel.

The current through the solenoid when switched on was 2.8 A, dropping to 2.6 A as it warmed up (and it did get quite warm).

Does that help you comment on the suitability of the 1N4148 diode? I can take some other measurements if needed, like the current through the MOV.

I have seen this "diode" recommended on here as well. It physically looks more like the OEM MOV. But I don't understand the data enough to judge if it is better.

View attachment VANOS MOV data sheet.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you all for your advise. What has other owners tried?

Obviously you need an equivalent or better oem.

Which will last longer than the original
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Thank you



I'll get the 1N5401's ago

Just to confirm orientation.



Black stripe on diode goes to Black Wire side?



Also is it best to attach the diodes to the main board or the small board on the solenoid?
 

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This is more out of curiosity then anything, but why change from the OEM if the OEM is available? This doesn't seem to be a common failure point in the system so why mess with it?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This is more out of curiosity then anything, but why change from the OEM if the OEM is available? This doesn't seem to be a common failure point in the system so why mess with it?
Hi I didn't know you could get the oem parts

Do you know where you can purchase these from? In the U.K
 

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Hi I didn't know you could get the oem parts

Do you know where you can purchase these from? In the U.K
Maybe I am confused then. I thought the 1N4148 was the OEM...

And I didn't mean available from BMW, but rather that it is the same part number on original solenoid boards.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi
As far as I know and what I've read the 1n4148 is just a diode which people have used in the past to replace the oem.

Don't quote me on this

A lot of people have said that the above mentioned diode isn't rated high enough for the job
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok I've removed the solenoids/circuit board all movs still there tested each solenoid and cleaned them all work and soldered between the terminals with wire
I've now re fitted the solenoids back in
But the test still shows a fault?



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Discussion Starter #19
I've noticed also when testing the solenoids when supply is connected permanently the solenoids goes on and off instead of stating on? Is this correct?


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Discussion Starter #20
The old test was
Inlet manifold retard = 62.2degree
Inlet advance. = 0 degree
Exhaust advance = 2.6 degree

After cleaning.
Inlet manifold retard = 66.4degree
Inlet advance = 0.1 degree
Exhaust advance = 2.6 degree

So there some change but are they for the better?





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