[AquilaBMW]

Hi - Sorry for delayed responses from me. This offer is still open. This offer is just something from me to the community. To get the free banner, you'd have to order the coils from me as several members already did. If that's of no interest to you, no biggie, you can order them direct from the site. If you'd like to order from me, please send me a PM as it's the fastest and best way to get hold of me. Cheers!

 

[NRLegg]

Hi - Sorry for delayed responses from me. This offer is still open. This offer is just something from me to the community. To get the free banner, you'd have to order the coils from me as several members already did. If that's of no interest to you, no biggie, you can order them direct from the site. If you'd like to order from me, please send me a PM as it's the fastest and best way to get hold of me. Cheers!

Hey @AquilaBMW. I would love to get in on this offer, but I cannot send PMs. Could you please message me about an order for 8 coils and a banner.

 

[AquilaBMW]

Hey @AquilaBMW. I would love to get in on this offer, but I cannot send PMs. Could you please message me about an order for 8 coils and a banner.

Hi There -

How do I message you? You can also just email me at e34hobby@gmail.com

 

[NRLegg]

Hi There -

How do I message you? You can also just email me at e34hobby@gmail.com

Seems like we might both be in the same boat lol

I will send you an email. Thanks!

 

[Trizzuth]

Got my set and they look amazing, need to couple the install with a few other jobs and will find the time this spring


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[AquilaBMW]

In answer to a question, yes this offer is still available from me as long as stocks last.

 

[2001///M5]

Could you substitute a beanie for the banner?

 

[AquilaBMW]

Could you substitute a beanie for the banner?

Sorry .... no can do.

 

[kei2927]

Sorry to threadjack, but is anyone having issues with these Dinan coils?
I've been experimenting with these coils, but at least one of the coils seem to be causing stuttering or hesitation below 2k rpm..

 

[StephenVA]

Sorry to threadjack, but is anyone having issues with these Dinan coils?
I've been experimenting with these coils, but at least one of the coils seem to be causing stuttering or hesitation below 2k rpm..

Test your coils for Resistance as the primary wiring inside is feet long and if it has a break during construction will show up with this simple test. Pull your plugs and check the condition and the GAP settings.

Coils should be .8 ohms between pin 1 and 15 (outer pins)...try a lower ohm setting on your multimeter and read them again, but these too seem to be in spec. limits.

Bad ignition coils will give you a SES light. The SES light / OBDII code will point right to the bad one.

Start with ensuring power to your ignition connector - pin 15 should have 12 volts...not fused so be careful while probing.

to test ignition coil primary resistance you can probe terminal 1 (-) and 15 (+)..and you should read approx 0.8 ohms.

to test spark plug connector resistance the Bosch should read 1Kohm +/-20%.
BERU brand should read 1.8K ohm resistance.

Ref. section 120 of Bentley's manual...pin one and 15 are the two outer pins of the three prong connector..4A is the middle pin

M5 NGK Plugs E39 1999-2003
Laser Platinum Part # BKR6EQUP Stock No 3199 (OE Style 4 prong/ground straps)
Iridium IX Part #. BKR6EIX Stock No 6418 (Fine wire center electrode w/ single cut back ground strap)

Ignore the heat Range plug numbers

 

[Sailor24]

Test your coils for Resistance

Hope you don't mind but I suggested this single post be included in the DIY thread, very useful post.

 

[StephenVA]

Never a problem

I should tweak it a bit as it is a cut and paste from my files in answering coil and plug questions over the years.

in a past life I was a field sales engineer with Champion Spark plugs which exposed me to lots of bench racers with zero automotive knowledge. Now days we call them “internet experts”.

 

[kei2927]

Test your coils for Resistance as the primary wiring inside is feet long and if it has a break during construction will show up with this simple test. Pull your plugs and check the condition and the GAP settings.

Coils should be .8 ohms between pin 1 and 15 (outer pins)...try a lower ohm setting on your multimeter and read them again, but these too seem to be in spec. limits.

Bad ignition coils will give you a SES light. The SES light / OBDII code will point right to the bad one.

Start with ensuring power to your ignition connector - pin 15 should have 12 volts...not fused so be careful while probing.

to test ignition coil primary resistance you can probe terminal 1 (-) and 15 (+)..and you should read approx 0.8 ohms.

to test spark plug connector resistance the Bosch should read 1Kohm +/-20%.
BERU brand should read 1.8K ohm resistance.

Ref. section 120 of Bentley's manual...pin one and 15 are the two outer pins of the three prong connector..4A is the middle pin

M5 NGK Plugs E39 1999-2003
Laser Platinum Part # BKR6EQUP Stock No 3199 (OE Style 4 prong/ground straps)
Iridium IX Part #. BKR6EIX Stock No 6418 (Fine wire center electrode w/ single cut back ground strap)

View attachment 964362 View attachment 964363 View attachment 964364 View attachment 964365 Ignore the heat Range plug numbers

This is some great info. Thank you StephenVA.
I'll be pulling the plugs again start there. The 4 prong ones cannot be gapped tho right?
To check resistance of the coils, do I have to splice into the engine harness??

Thanks!
- Gabe

 

[StephenVA]

There are tools to confirm the gap setting on the multiple prong plugs. Most plug manufactures suggest a visual inspection and then install without a gap check. 99% of the time you will be good to go. This style of plugs (multi-prong) were a marketing tool way back in the late 90’s early 2000. Some had two side straps, others had four. Technology moved on to single fine wire plugs after their successful usage in Formula 1 and other race programs.

I personally have used both with success. The fine wire high quality metals plugs give you cleaner tip in acceleration response, smoother idle, and less sensitive to octane fluxuation in fuel blends. All of which allows higher timing levels and more horse power. The multi prong plugs shroud the spark area. I don't believe there is a single manufacturer currently installing them in production engines due to the advantages fine wire precious metal plugs offer.

On the coil testing question, there is no need to break the wire jacketing. You just back probe the connections to confirm voltage from the battery. On resistance test coils, remove the connections and test the coil on the car or out. You are seeking a value from the primary windings within the inside the coil itself.
The windings are that big bulge on top packed in silicone. It it literally very fine wire wrapped over and over again that when charged “measured by dwell time” and then disconnected create a surge that comes out the coil as secondary high voltage that runs down to the plug allowing the spark to jump the gap in the plug under extreme pressures in a cylinder head at TDC and firing off the fuel air mixture.
When you video tape the process it is not an explosion, it is more like a super fast flame wall traveling across the head/piston top, burning the mix. The tweaking of this event in every stage of acceleration and throttle pressure gives a engine tuner the ability to gain HP by tweaking fuel, timing, and physical parts up stream and downstream. It really is a combo of science and art.
Want more high end HP? Try short air horns and short intake runners.
Want more torque? Longer the above see this video from Holley Skyram:

Size?
Etc
With stock applications it is always a desire to tune to 90% of drive time. Compromise on top end. Add in variable cams profiles, changes in injection spray width and you can have both. Hence our M5 engine technology.
To see what can be accomplished visit Peter’s website on M5 engineering development. He offers a lots of tweaks during rebuilds he calls “enhanced stock” (if my memory is correct).

 

[Trizzuth]

Any updates on the issue you had with one of the DINAN coils @kei2927?

did the resistance check out? Wanna know before I install mine, but will bench test the resistance on each before doing so.

 

[kei2927]

Any updates on the issue you had with one of the DINAN coils @kei2927?

did the resistance check out? Wanna know before I install mine, but will bench test the resistance on each before doing so.

Hey Trizzuth,

I didn't have a multimeter so I had to send it off to my mechanic to perform the test on my behalf.
All I could do before I sent it out was check for continuity, which all of them passed without any issues.
It seems to be that the coils are fine, and I'm tackling the VANOS solenoid maintenance today to see if that makes any difference. I'll test the resistance today while I'm in there.

Will keep you updated.

- Gabe

 

[Trizzuth]

I love you for this Gabe!!!

Will stay locked to your thread to see how it goes, this is one of the things I have not ever touched on my car and I wonder if it would get rid of some of the low end hesitation I get when the car is colder.

I figure I will do the harder stuff first that’s a pain in the *** like the cooling system because the vanos units are pretty much easy to pull out near the top of the engine bay.


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[kei2927]

I love you for this Gabe!!!

Will stay locked to your thread to see how it goes, this is one of the things I have not ever touched on my car and I wonder if it would get rid of some of the low end hesitation I get when the car is colder.

I figure I will do the harder stuff first that’s a pain in the *** like the cooling system because the vanos units are pretty much easy to pull out near the top of the engine bay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So a little update after driving for a little bit after the solenoid maintenance yesterday.
All the coils tested out fine for resistance. I don't have the exact numbers (sorry!) with me as I was cleaning the noid while others tested the coils. My mechanic, however, still pointed out that these coils may benchtest fine, but can act up when they are in the car and heats up.

As for the VANOS, I'm rather thinking I lost a few HP after doing the noids. It does not pull quite as hard even though the engine feels a lot smoother. The hesitation is still present though. Not sure if this is something that needs adaptation period for the engine.

I'm putting the car in storage for now. Will be changing the plugs and coils again later this year to see if a fine-wire single electrode plug can get rid of this skipping-a-beat like feeling.

Cheers,
Gabe

 

[Sailor24]

Not sure if this is something that needs adaptation period for the engine.

Of coarse it does. The Vanos returns exhaust gas to the intake side to adjust the cylinder volume or air in the cylinder. It has a big affect on the air fuel ratio. After 50 miles most of the changes will have completed 70% but it will take a few hundred to reach it's final adaption.
If you still feel you lost power after 100 miles then likely you did not clean them correctly. Often people loosen stuff but it does not come out. It might come out on it's own because of 1500 psi oil flow but 150 psi air works much better because it is more turbulent. Don't be surprised by having to do it again, Not sure it is 50% but near that many first timers have to do it again. The key is the click sound, they all should be the same and nice and crisp. There are some videos here from the early days that demonstrate this. You have to be aggressive with the air pressure and do it many times both ways.

 

[kei2927]

Of coarse it does. The Vanos returns exhaust gas to the intake side to adjust the cylinder volume or air in the cylinder. It has a big affect on the air fuel ratio. After 50 miles most of the changes will have completed 70% but it will take a few hundred to reach it's final adaption.
If you still feel you lost power after 100 miles then likely you did not clean them correctly. Often people loosen stuff but it does not come out. It might come out on it's own because of 1500 psi oil flow but 150 psi air works much better because it is more turbulent. Don't be surprised by having to do it again, Not sure it is 50% but near that many first timers have to do it again. The key is the click sound, they all should be the same and nice and crisp. There are some videos here from the early days that demonstrate this. You have to be aggressive with the air pressure and do it many times both ways.

That's nice to hear.
I did drive approx. 50 miles yesterday. I assume things will be slightly different on the next startup.
I'm honestly surprised by how smoother the engine became after a relatively (what seems to be at least) minor maintenance.
All of the noids were thoroughly cleaned and was able to produce the high pitched click sound. Funnily enough, the PO had done the maintenance on the drivers side, but didn't bother to do the passenger side. So bank 2 was CLEAN While bank 1 noids were DIRTY.
I suppose this also aligns with the higher FTs on Bank 1 (~12%) compared to bank 2 (~6%). I'll have to see how this will change accordingly as well.

- Gabe