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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK got the car today from Ohio the shipping truck came one day early.:grinyes: Te beast is home at last. This car came to Florida then to Ohio and now to California coast to coast it likes the beaches I guess. When I started the car it has idle problem it goes back and forth from 500 to 800 rpms so I was very unhappy about this. The previous owner changed pri cat o2 sensors 10000 miles ago. The car been in the dealer for about 2 weeks and the previous owner did drive the car in the winter. The car also came with 1/2 tank of gas. My questions to fellow board members what can cause the idle problem. Does the gas and that the car wasn't driven much failed me smog test. If I drive the car untill empty and get some fresh gas should I try to pass the test again or just take the car to the service shop. THANK YOU GUYS IN ADVANCE.
 

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Check how long ago the MAF's were changed. If they are more than 20k miles old, just change them. They're cheap and easy to do compared to a lot of other parts.

A lumpy idle could also be caused by leaky vacuum hoses. Unfortunately they are underneath the intake plenum so it can be costly to find the leaky one.

I'm guessing it's the MAF's that are to blame though. Do a search for "MAF test" and you'll see how to test them if you want to make sure they're bad before swapping them out.
 

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1. Get a Peake Reader and pull codes
2. Service record??
3. MAF's, fuel filter, plugs, thermostat, TPS, CPS etc....

Your a ways out west, but my Peake reader is available if you want to drive out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Check how long ago the MAF's were changed. If they are more than 20k miles old, just change them. They're cheap and easy to do compared to a lot of other parts.

A lumpy idle could also be caused by leaky vacuum hoses. Unfortunately they are underneath the intake plenum so it can be costly to find the leaky one.

I'm guessing it's the MAF's that are to blame though. Do a search for "MAF test" and you'll see how to test them if you want to make sure they're bad before swapping them out.
Ok going to test them and clean. For the idle going to the shop.:( THANKS.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1. Get a Peake Reader and pull codes
2. Service record??
3. MAF's, fuel filter, plugs, thermostat, TPS, CPS etc....

Your a ways out west, but my Peake reader is available if you want to drive out.
THANK YOU for the offer to use your tool. JUST placed order for mine it's good investment and I get to reset my service indicator. The 60k service was done 10k ago fuel pump was replaced, spark plugs, thermostat too. One I get my hands on the tool maybe I get some codes that will help me out.
 

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Did you really just say:

"Thank you for the offer to use your tool"?

Sorry, cheap shot, but you made it too easy.

Definately get the peak reader and post the codes on the board. If they were previously cleared you may need to drive it around for awhile to see what comes back. I had been getting B2 & B3 codes (cat efficiency) and my car had been running rich due to a bad thermostat. I replaced the thermostat, MAFs, spark plugs, pre-cat O2s and then all the oil and vac lines (they decay over time and bacially fall apart) and that seems to have cleared it up. Small exhaust leaks around the O2 sensors can apparently also cause the codes.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you buy the car without seeing it, driving it inspecting it and having a qualified mechanic do a PPI?
I guess not. I was searching for this car and when I seen this one I jumped on it. This car was had good carfax, good service records, is in good condition for ten years old. Was bought from good dealer. I got a chance to talk to the owner as well. I didn't bother with all of that and I tell you why. I had many cars that I bought from actions, dealers, new and old when you see a car that jumps out at you you take it. I wasn't exspecting to get a car that is ten years old in perfect condition I like taking risks then somebody will run a way because they want some thing to be perfect or don't have the means to fix the problems on the car. I'm a car guy been around car all my life so if a buy a car It's my toy and I enjoy with all good and the bad that comes with it. I enjoy working on then in my gradge I relax this way. So your comment sounds like my wife "I told you so" and I don't like to hear this from fellow board member. IF you like to help me out with my problem post info like a car guy to another car guy if don't keep your comments to your self.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
"Thank you for the offer to use your tool"?

Sorry, cheap shot, but you made it too easy.

Definately get the peak reader and post the codes on the board. If they were previously cleared you may need to drive it around for awhile to see what comes back. I had been getting B2 & B3 codes (cat efficiency) and my car had been running rich due to a bad thermostat. I replaced the thermostat, MAFs, spark plugs, pre-cat O2s and then all the oil and vac lines (they decay over time and bacially fall apart) and that seems to have cleared it up. Small exhaust leaks around the O2 sensors can apparently also cause the codes.

Good luck.
LOL I guess I did make it to easy:hihi: Thanks for your info will do this then I get paek reader.
 

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I guess not. I was searching for this car and when I seen this one I jumped on it. This car was had good carfax, good service records, is in good condition for ten years old. Was bought from good dealer. I got a chance to talk to the owner as well. I didn't bother with all of that and I tell you why. I had many cars that I bought from actions, dealers, new and old when you see a car that jumps out at you you take it. I wasn't exspecting to get a car that is ten years old in perfect condition I like taking risks then somebody will run a way because they want some thing to be perfect or don't have the means to fix the problems on the car. I'm a car guy been around car all my life so if a buy a car It's my toy and I enjoy with all good and the bad that comes with it. I enjoy working on then in my gradge I relax this way. So your comment sounds like my wife "I told you so" and I don't like to hear this from fellow board member. IF you like to help me out with my problem post info like a car guy to another car guy if don't keep your comments to your self.
+1 You got it cheap too I will bet. I did the same, except mine had known codes when I looked at and bought it. Was a challenge to make the engine purrrrfect. The body and interior were spotless.

What were the reasons for the fail if you can scan the report it would help. That said unmetered air entering the engine causes the surges at idle and that screws with the mixture so bad when the rpm comes up it would be hard to pass on hydro carbons alone. When you have unmetered air getting in, it is like having no MAFs because the O2s tell the PCM the MAFs are wrong and to ignore them, but the computer can't tell which one is lying so it tries to keep both happy. The check engine light is on?
 

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The "ignorance is bliss" approach isn't a good idea with these cars.

Ard's a respected member of this board. I'm guessing you may have lost some of yours with your reply.

When my car was struggling to pass smog it was due to a bad Cat. Luckily mine was covered under warranty.
 

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The "ignorance is bliss" approach isn't a good idea with these cars.

Ard's a respected member of this board. I'm guessing you may have lost some of yours with your reply.

When my car was struggling to pass smog it was due to a bad Cat. Luckily mine was covered under warranty.
I certainly meant no disrespect to anyone especially Ard. I would think that his advise would be the best approach for most. I just thought that possibly mpwr247 is like me. Prepared to get the info and do the work and take this on as an experience. I have been fixing my own E34s for better than 15 years. I have a diagnostic scanner, a hoist and an assortment of tools that would compete with most mechanics. The ownership of an M5 is very pleasing, driving it is a thrill, but fixing it, maintaining it and understanding how it works is the greatest joy of ownership to me.

My apologies if anyone was offended that was not my intention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The "ignorance is bliss" approach isn't a good idea with these cars.

Ard's a respected member of this board. I'm guessing you may have lost some of yours with your reply.

When my car was struggling to pass smog it was due to a bad Cat. Luckily mine was covered under warranty.
I lost my respect what are you talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
+1 You got it cheap too I will bet. I did the same, except mine had known codes when I looked at and bought it. Was a challenge to make the engine purrrrfect. The body and interior were spotless.

What were the reasons for the fail if you can scan the report it would help. That said unmetered air entering the engine causes the surges at idle and that screws with the mixture so bad when the rpm comes up it would be hard to pass on hydro carbons alone. When you have unmetered air getting in, it is like having no MAFs because the O2s tell the PCM the MAFs are wrong and to ignore them, but the computer can't tell which one is lying so it tries to keep both happy. The check engine light is on?
The idle got better today put 100 miles on the car. Cleaned out mafs fresh tank of gas passed smog with no problems. Peak reader is coming soon so the idle promlem gets solved soon. No check engine lights. Price was good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Check how long ago the MAF's were changed. If they are more than 20k miles old, just change them. They're cheap and easy to do compared to a lot of other parts.

A lumpy idle could also be caused by leaky vacuum hoses. Unfortunately they are underneath the intake plenum so it can be costly to find the leaky one.

I'm guessing it's the MAF's that are to blame though. Do a search for "MAF test" and you'll see how to test them if you want to make sure they're bad before swapping them out.
Cleaning them out did the trick.:applause:
 

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Cleaning them out did the trick.:applause:
That's great, I'm glad the MAFs were indeed the culprit.

However, if cleaning them fixes the problem you will soon see the problem return as cleaning them is only a temporary fix. You should replace them as soon as you can for a permanent fix. Bimmerzone has the best price on them, $320 shipped I believe, you can find them in the Group Buy forum.

Enjoy your Beast!:byebye:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That's great, I'm glad the MAFs were indeed the culprit.

However, if cleaning them fixes the problem you will soon see the problem return as cleaning them is only a temporary fix. You should replace them as soon as you can for a permanent fix. Bimmerzone has the best price on them, $320 shipped I believe, you can find them in the Group Buy forum.

Enjoy your Beast!:byebye:
Will do mafs for sure. For now I just want regester the car in cali so dmv can get of my back lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok guys got the peake reader today. Pulled these codes what do they mean.

1. Code 16 Exhaust camshaft vanos advance valve.
2. Code AA Secondary air system flow to low.
3. Code 86 Instrument cluster message time out.
4. Code 75 Servotronic speed signal.

:dunno: What do I do. How do I fix them. Thank you.
 

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I know a guy with an m5 and he had trouble passing smog also. The problem was that the car was babied and he needed to clear out the cats. Run it at high rpm and floor it a couple of times. These engines were made to rev high.
 
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