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Did another t-stat(and waterpump) on a boardmember's beast today and this time I took a pic how to remove the sealing in the housing...

For all the guys who wondered how to get the metal sealing ring out of the t-stat housing:

 

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edit: never mind...:)
 

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Did another t-stat(and waterpump) on a boardmember's beast today and this time I took a pic how to remove the sealing in the housing...

For all the guys who wondered how to get the metal sealing ring out of the t-stat housing:


Nice tool you have there. ;)
 

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Doug,you want to use the 3-arm puller for the thrust arm bushing?You need a really heavy duty one,then!:M5thumbs:

If the 2-arm puller is a bit crappy,does not matter so much for this application,there is not so much force needed to pull the ring out!
 

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Doug,you want to use the 3-arm puller for the thrust arm bushing?You need a really heavy duty one,then!:M5thumbs:

If the 2-arm puller is a bit crappy,does not matter so much for this application,there is not so much force needed to pull the ring out!
VantaaM5 - I'm not replacing, nor removing, the arm from the car (since I believe, or at least hope, that my ball joints are ok). Therefore, the normal "use a press" method does not apply, and I'm instead using a 3 arm puller. And yes, it is HD - 5 ton (although only 6 inches). Once I finish (it's been a total of 10 hours so far) I'll be posting my thoughts and insights on this particular repair. The short version is "Do not replace the bushing while the arm is still on the car".

d-
 

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Doug,I understood that point with leaving the arm on the car.Also agree with you on the part rather to remove it!


And even with this one it was a PITA,for the next time I remove the arm!

 

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Went into the BMW dealer today & ordered my parts for the Thermostat change as my car seems to sit around 68 temp most of the time !
As i have a nice warm garage & don't need to use the car much i'll tackle it myself but will remove plenum when i do mine to give better access as i can take a couple of evenings to do it if needed. I haven't ordered the metal sealing ring so hopefully its still in good condition,as everyonme has said its a mare to remove.

Thanks to DouglasABaker for putting up exactly what parts i need & links to the diagrams,very helpfull.

Simon.
 

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For those reluctant or on the fence about draining the block, don't be if you really want to truly drain the coolant system. The block holds as much coolant as the radiator!

I'm surprised by the need for a thermostat replacement when the OBC shows the temp to be within a few deg. C of the desired 79C? We're talking about a small margin of error there no? 3-4 deg C = 4.8-7.2 deg F for those of us not completely in tune with Celsius scale! It appears the engine management is very sensitive to coolant temperature?

My temp gauge tends to fall on either side of the left dot, depending on which way the wind is blowing. Seems a thermostat replacement could be in the near future for me. However i'll first confirm what the OBC menu 7 tells me since the gauge is notoriously spotty. Plus my car is one that is afflicted with the occasional random pegging of the gauge to max,leaving me even less faithful in the gauge reading. So i'll have to visit the dealer at some point for a software upgrade.
 

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If you think about what the thermostat actually does, you should very rarely ever see it below the opening temperature. If it's working, it should stay closed until 79 C. You're right, there is a margin of error on the gauge or sensor, but you still shouldn't see anything less than 78 or maybe 77 for very short periods. At this temp, the thermostat should close and the combustion heat should quickly bring the temp back to 79 or higher.

I was reading 74-75 before changing my thermostat last week. The needle was basically locked to the left dot on the dash with small movement toward the middle in stop and go. With the new part, it never goes below 80 or 81 once it's warmed up. I was also seeing a noticeable amount of soot on the back of the car from it running rich that is no longer happening.
 

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I hear you KLehmann The block is VERY easy to do right? When the coolant comes out it hit the suspension struts and sprays everywhere! All over my face! A bucket just isnt enough!
 

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I hear you KLehmann The block is VERY easy to do right? When the coolant comes out it hit the suspension struts and sprays everywhere! All over my face! A bucket just isnt enough!
Release the pressure in the system BEFORE you crack the plugs next time :) And use a funnel!

d-
 

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Yo Doug!

I had! I did the Tstat + radiator first but man, I wasnt ready!

PS - now you mention a funnel! ? !! hiha
 

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Waiting for my parts from BMWparts.com and will do all of the above when I get it. Thank you everyone for the write-up so far and I will try to add some when I'm done.
 

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I changed my thermostat without issue around 6 months ago due to temp issues, have noticed lately petrol smell on start-up and much higher fuel consumption. The not so secret menu shows 78 degrees constantly on the motorway rising to around 81 in town. I have new mafs, both coolant temp sensors and both pre-cat 02 sensors.
Any ideas anyone?
 

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I changed my thermostat without issue around 6 months ago due to temp issues, have noticed lately petrol smell on start-up and much higher fuel consumption. The not so secret menu shows 78 degrees constantly on the motorway rising to around 81 in town. I have new mafs, both coolant temp sensors and both pre-cat 02 sensors.
Any ideas anyone?
I think you have 2 completely unrelated issues and need to diagnose where your fuel leak is. Can't say as I have any real likely suggestions for you other than re-checking your MAF reading using the OBC and checking short/long term fuel trim through a GT1 or equivalent. The only related parts you haven't changed that I would suspect are the injectors themselves (seems unlikely) and the post-cat O2's.

d-
 

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I think you have 2 completely unrelated issues and need to diagnose where your fuel leak is. Can't say as I have any real likely suggestions for you other than re-checking your MAF reading using the OBC and checking short/long term fuel trim through a GT1 or equivalent. The only related parts you haven't changed that I would suspect are the injectors themselves (seems unlikely) and the post-cat O2's.

d-
MAF are very strong, over 140. Are the thermostat numbers ok?
 
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