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Guys, I have done this proceedure 4 times now and still...still I am getting leaks everything I switch her on and let her run.

I have been sooooo careful in making sure everything is in alignment before all is pushed back in. Im fully lubed (LOL) on the 3 tubes and I have been through a bunch of O rings.
The problem is you cannot see underneath the connecting pipes once everything is in position to see if an O ring has been distorted out of shape a touch. We must have exhausted the tips and advice by now, surely...?

Talk about frustration - I regress to a pi$$ed of 13 year old...its not good! ha ha!

Im thinking of throwing in the towel and paying for a professional to do it now. grrrrrrr To hell with the cost and wasted thermostat...O rings...25 litres of coolant, etc etc etc.

If anyone here can get this done first time they are either really lucky or a frikkin superhero...:15:

No comments Raikku!:cheers:

Oh well....Christmas spirit and all that:byee55amg....

Chin up...

Neil.D :santasmile2:
 

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Guys, I have done this proceedure 4 times now and still...still I am getting leaks everything I switch her on and let her run....

Neil.D :santasmile2:
5th time is a charm :) Take off the plenum and remove the VANOS lines if you get really frustrated. That is how it is assembled at the factory and will give you a ton more room to work and see.

Remember, push straight in equally on all tubes - do NOT cock them to one side or the other. Push slowly and steadily, and if you feel a pop, pull it out and replace the o-ring you just tore...

d-
 

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5th time is a charm :) Take off the plenum and remove the VANOS lines if you get really frustrated. That is how it is assembled at the factory and will give you a ton more room to work and see.

Remember, push straight in equally on all tubes - do NOT cock them to one side or the other. Push slowly and steadily, and if you feel a pop, pull it out and replace the o-ring you just tore...

d-
That is exactly what I did the last (4th) time. It is time consuming, but not hard. Without the plenum, you get a much better look at the pipes as they go into the motor. I did remove the VANOs lines each, I don't see how you can really do it without.

With the plenum removed, this is a very good time to change spark plugs if you haven't done them recently.
Regards,
Jerry
 

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5th time is a charm :) Take off the plenum and remove the VANOS lines if you get really frustrated. That is how it is assembled at the factory and will give you a ton more room to work and see.

Remember, push straight in equally on all tubes - do NOT cock them to one side or the other. Push slowly and steadily, and if you feel a pop, pull it out and replace the o-ring you just tore...

d-
+100 I don't see how anyone does this without the plenum and VANOS lines removed. I did it that way, and the first time was the charm. One set of o-rings.

--Peter
 

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That really sucks,Neilouich
Did you see damage on the O-rings each time you pulled it?
Don't understand that it still leaking!
+1 on removing the plenum then!

Seems I am really lucky then as I did 3 S62s already working out the first time without removing Vanos lines or plenum!But have already 2 other beasts waiting for thermostat changes,so will see if I get finally a leaking one:)

Sometimes it sucks that we live so far from each other,would really inmediately help you,brother!
 

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Ok, Ok....with all your words of wisdom I may just give it one more go :M5thumbs:

What sort of timscale is there associated with removing the plenum? Just so I know what time to set aside. Sounds like with that thing removed it could be a lot easier.

When removing the VANOS lines is there any high pressure risk?

Raikku - yes a couple split as they were going in. Luckily I have loads spare from previous attempts!

Cheers guys,

Neil :byee55amg
 

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Neil,calculate about an hour for the extra work on the plenum if you do it first time!
Check out if you have somewhere oxidation or sharp edges on the thermostat and heat exchanger side!
Is it always the same o-ring that breaks?

Would do a video for you,mate,but change the next one between christmas and new year..
 

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Ok, Ok....with all your words of wisdom I may just give it one more go :M5thumbs:

What sort of timscale is there associated with removing the plenum? Just so I know what time to set aside. Sounds like with that thing removed it could be a lot easier.

When removing the VANOS lines is there any high pressure risk?

Raikku - yes a couple split as they were going in. Luckily I have loads spare from previous attempts!

Cheers guys,

Neil :byee55amg
I'd plan an extra hour or so on the plenum. It is easy, but has a crapload of bolts (since you also have to remove the intake runners) holding it down.

The VANOS lines are easy, but you will need new gaskets. I find that they are a pain, but not required. For the issue you are having, I'd try just the plenum first...

d-
 

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An hour isn't so bad...I will start there. I thought it would be something like 3 hours for removal then the same to put back or something.

I will try and leave the VANOS lines where they are, to be honest they were not really the problem.

Will report back in the next few days.

If I dont it means ive torched the car.

Neil
 

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I just finished mine in the last hour, I replaced the stat/stat seal/6 x o rings, I also did the vanos o rings while I had easy access to them.

Currently inside warming up my hands and having a cuppa before I stick the coolant in and check for leaks yawnnnn

I'll let you know how I get on :biggrinbounce:
 

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I just finished mine in the last hour, I replaced the stat/stat seal/6 x o rings, I also did the vanos o rings while I had easy access to them.

Currently inside warming up my hands and having a cuppa before I stick the coolant in and check for leaks yawnnnn

I'll let you know how I get on :biggrinbounce:
#

I will be praying to God that you dont have a leak :crying:
 

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Must be begginers luck :)

All good with no leaks so far, I just ran it up to temp it sits nicely at 12 o'clock now and the blowers nice and hot.

I had a whole host of codes on the first fire up related to the vanos soleonoids which cleared and didn't come back :)

I hope you get yours sorted soon, I'd come give u a hand if the weather wasn't so bad!
 

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This may be a silly question but with the amount of delicate finesse it takes just to properly mate some simple O-rings and tubes (eyes rolling), is it reasonable to source some more robust O-rings from some aftermarket vendor with less of a failure rate than what BMW offers?

In my mind, it just doesn't seem like changing a simple Tstat should be so involved.
 

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You have on every part that includes a connection with tubes and O-rings the potential problem if tearing the ring apart.If it is in internal oillines(like the pressure tube from the pump to the block on the S62) or coolant tubes.This is in the nature of the game dealing with those,no matter if it is a BMW or not.
If you want to source other O-rings,GL!
They have to be coolant resistant,operate in a wide temp range and when they are more robust,the inserting gets only more PITA!!!!!
 

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This may be a silly question but with the amount of delicate finesse it takes just to properly mate some simple O-rings and tubes (eyes rolling), is it reasonable to source some more robust O-rings from some aftermarket vendor with less of a failure rate than what BMW offers?

In my mind, it just doesn't seem like changing a simple Tstat should be so involved.
It shouldn't be so involved, but the design is a little unusual!!

I am not sure how to source more robust o rings that will also fit. There is not a lot of room, so I am guessing that if you add thickness (to prevent tearing) you may have trouble fitting them.
It seems the o rings on the outer pipes are the ones that fail most often; the rings on the center pipe (to the heat exchanger) are much thicker.
Regards,
Jerry
 

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Used the secret OBD menu to check my t-stat today. Results:

Orange lights on vdo were gone by 73C.
Drove more, spiritedly and got it up to 79C.
Under normal driving and highway it stayed around 75C-76C.
77C every once in a while.
Then when I got home I let it sit, rose to 81C then slowly backed down to 79C.

Thought? Am I due a new t-stat?
 

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Used the secret OBD menu to check my t-stat today. Results:

Orange lights on vdo were gone by 73C.
Drove more, spiritedly and got it up to 79C.
Under normal driving and highway it stayed around 75C-76C.
77C every once in a while.
Then when I got home I let it sit, rose to 81C then slowly backed down to 79C.

Thought? Am I due a new t-stat?
Orange lights are related to oil temp, not water (in the summer the two track closely, but in the winter, you can see the lights correspond to oil temp better than water), but to answer your question, Yes, you need a t-stat. It will always heat up higher when sitting because there is no air flowing over the radiator.

d-
 

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Used the secret OBD menu to check my t-stat today. Results:

Orange lights on vdo were gone by 73C.
Drove more, spiritedly and got it up to 79C.
Under normal driving and highway it stayed around 75C-76C.
77C every once in a while.
Then when I got home I let it sit, rose to 81C then slowly backed down to 79C.

Thought? Am I due a new t-stat?
Just as a gut check for you, I have a new T-stat and it never drops below 78C even in 6th on the highway in sub-freezing Colorado mornings and nights. Mixed traffic yields 81-83 easily.
 

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Just changed my T-stat!

Happy Holidays All:2:

First I'd like to thank Timmay and the other board members who posted the DIY's for this frustrating little task. I may have had an Indy do this if I hadn't gained confidence by reading their post's. My Beast started running a little cooler than normal and my gas mileage started getting worse an worse. The car also seemed a bit down on power and slightly rougher than normal. Plugs, Mafs, CPS were all fairly new so after a little reading I decided to do the T-stat. After gathering all materials needed I tore into the Beast! After three or four torn O-rings I finally thought I'd whooped it, just to find I'd pinched the T-stat gasket and had a gusher! One more time into the breech!!! Finally got her all buttuned up with no leaks and am pretty happy about it:cheers: Took the Beast out for the first time in months and gave her a good rip. All is well again!!! Finally unlocked the test menue and she's now at 78 or better, even in the cold weather. Definately smoother than she had been and nice and snappy again.

Like so many things in life the proper lube( and lots of it!) and a small bottle of Jagermeister seem to be the key:thumbsup:

Dan
 
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