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That's what I figured, but I got excited when I saw 81. Sadly, it didn't last. So once warm, it should never get below 78-79? I also noticed the exhaust smelled rich a few days ago after the car should have been warm, so all signs point to me getting my hands dirty soon. Glad I have a spare car :)
You got it. Happy DIY!
 

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I wemt to the local BMW main dealer to get an idea of parts prices & this is what they said i would need:

11.53.1.710.055 O Ring x1 price 0.57
13.62.1.703.993 Double temp ??(sender?)11.39
81.22.9.407.454 Antifreeze x3 18.90
11.53.1.406.249 O Ring x4 1.92
11.53.1.312.287 Sealing Ring 17.05
11.53.7.835.558 Thermostat 72.61

I thought their was 6 O rings ? but my BMW parts guy says 5 O rings required, are these parts above correct ?

I did the secret menu test & mine sits around 70 temp when cruising, i did manage to get it to 81 but it never stayed there. I have a nice warm garage to do my thermostat change & my M5 is not used for work or family transport so doesn't matter if its off the road for a while. Just contemplating whether to change it as it may give me grief if i have problems with leaks ! I only want to do the job once so might be better off removing as much as poss to make the job easier when it comes to the O rings.

If i replace my stat should i expect to see slightly better mpg as it must be running slightly rich/cold at the moment.

Cheers Simon.
 

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I wemt to the local BMW main dealer to get an idea of parts prices & this is what they said i would need:

11.53.1.710.055 O Ring x1 price 0.57
13.62.1.703.993 Double temp ??(sender?)11.39
81.22.9.407.454 Antifreeze x3 18.90
11.53.1.406.249 O Ring x4 1.92
11.53.1.312.287 Sealing Ring 17.05
11.53.7.835.558 Thermostat 72.61

I thought their was 6 O rings ? but my BMW parts guy says 5 O rings required, are these parts above correct ?

I did the secret menu test & mine sits around 70 temp when cruising, i did manage to get it to 81 but it never stayed there. I have a nice warm garage to do my thermostat change & my M5 is not used for work or family transport so doesn't matter if its off the road for a while. Just contemplating whether to change it as it may give me grief if i have problems with leaks ! I only want to do the job once so might be better off removing as much as poss to make the job easier when it comes to the O rings.

If i replace my stat should i expect to see slightly better mpg as it must be running slightly rich/cold at the moment.

Cheers Simon.
There are 6 o-rings total. 4 of one, and 2 of another. I'd suggest ordering double the number you should need just in case.

Assuming your guy knows his stuff, you need at least 2 of the first item on your list...

d-
 

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There are 6 o-rings total. 4 of one, and 2 of another. I'd suggest ordering double the number you should need just in case.

Assuming your guy knows his stuff, you need at least 2 of the first item on your list...

d-
+1.
Also, you should not really need the sealing ring inside the Tstat. PITA to get out.

Two gallons of coolant is sufficent, you want a 50/50 mix with distilled water and there is a little over a 3 gallon capacity.
Regards,
Jerry
 

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Understatement. I wound up dremeling mine to break it, very carefully so as to not damage the seat- so I could pry it out.
If you subtract out the cost of the sealing ring, you can buy the whole housing on-line (which includes the ring installed) for ~$160. Not cheap, but if you really want to replace that ring, many might find it something they had wised they had bought when they get too far into the ring removal to go back (or muck up the seat).
 

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I wemt to the local BMW main dealer to get an idea of parts prices & this is what they said i would need:

11.53.1.710.055 O Ring x1 price 0.57
13.62.1.703.993 Double temp ??(sender?)11.39
81.22.9.407.454 Antifreeze x3 18.90
11.53.1.406.249 O Ring x4 1.92
11.53.1.312.287 Sealing Ring 17.05
11.53.7.835.558 Thermostat 72.61

I thought their was 6 O rings ? but my BMW parts guy says 5 O rings required, are these parts above correct ?

I did the secret menu test & mine sits around 70 temp when cruising, i did manage to get it to 81 but it never stayed there. I have a nice warm garage to do my thermostat change & my M5 is not used for work or family transport so doesn't matter if its off the road for a while. Just contemplating whether to change it as it may give me grief if i have problems with leaks ! I only want to do the job once so might be better off removing as much as poss to make the job easier when it comes to the O rings.

If i replace my stat should i expect to see slightly better mpg as it must be running slightly rich/cold at the moment.

Cheers Simon.
That first o-ring p/n is one I'm not sure you will need. Perhaps Doug or someone who has done this job can comment. It is #18 in this picture.

You don't list the other two o-rings you need though (and not surprising a parts guy who hasn't done a tstat on the M5 might not be aware of. You need a minimum of two of #11 in this picture. P/N 11531407002. These are the o-rings that seal the connection to the oil cooler under the plenum. All these o-rings are CHEAP, so buy at least twice the quantity you need for the job.
 

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I wemt to the local BMW main dealer to get an idea of parts prices & this is what they said i would need:

11.53.1.710.055 O Ring x1 price 0.57
13.62.1.703.993 Double temp ??(sender?)11.39
81.22.9.407.454 Antifreeze x3 18.90
11.53.1.406.249 O Ring x4 1.92
11.53.1.312.287 Sealing Ring 17.05
11.53.7.835.558 Thermostat 72.61

...
Cheers Simon.
That first o-ring p/n is one I'm not sure you will need. Perhaps Doug or someone who has done this job can comment. It is #18 in this picture.
Ok Simon, I screwed up. I assumed your parts guy knew something. My bad.

You do NOT need #18. Frankly, I'm not even sure where #18 goes, but it doesn't attach to the t-stat housing.

You don't list the other two o-rings you need though (and not surprising a parts guy who hasn't done a tstat on the M5 might not be aware of. You need a minimum of two of #11 in this picture. P/N 11531407002. These are the o-rings that seal the connection to the oil cooler under the plenum. All these o-rings are CHEAP, so buy at least twice the quantity you need for the job.
This really shouldn't be this hard. Can't a dealer even develop a simple parts list?

Here is what you need:

1x#8
4x#9 (personally, I'd order 8)
2x#11 (personally, I'd order 4)

Here is additional info:
Skip #7 unless you are a masochist, but consider changing #11 if your gauge reads low.

You should also confirm that #1 and #2 are in good shape and do not need replacement. Replace #21 if you have spare cash or are having trouble with your aux fan.

If you want to go all crazy, then feel free to replace #1, #2, 2x#3, #9, #10, 4x#11, #14, #15, 4x#16 since you won't be able to get at them easily again until your next t-stat or major engine repair.

You'll also need coolant and distilled water. Lastly, if you decide to drain the block while you are in there (might as well, right? You're going to lose coolant anyway...), you'll want 2x#16 and I'd suggest you get #2 just in case...

d-
 

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Ok Simon, I screwed up. I assumed your parts guy knew something. My bad.

You do NOT need #18. Frankly, I'm not even sure where #18 goes, but it doesn't attach to the t-stat housing.



This really shouldn't be this hard. Can't a dealer even develop a simple parts list?

Here is what you need:

1x#8
4x#9 (personally, I'd order 8)
2x#11 (personally, I'd order 4)

Here is additional info:
Skip #7 unless you are a masochist, but consider changing #11 if your gauge reads low.

You should also confirm that #1 and #2 are in good shape and do not need replacement. Replace #21 if you have spare cash or are having trouble with your aux fan.

If you want to go all crazy, then feel free to replace #1, #2, 2x#3, #9, #10, 4x#11, #14, #15, 4x#16 since you won't be able to get at them easily again until your next t-stat or major engine repair.

You'll also need coolant and distilled water. Lastly, if you decide to drain the block while you are in there (might as well, right? You're going to lose coolant anyway...), you'll want 2x#16 and I'd suggest you get #2 just in case...

d-
Good timing, I just came online to order parts to replace my thermostat. Thanks!

Is there any reason not to get the t-stat (and other parts for that matter) from a place like Pelican? It looks like the same part(s) but in the case of the thermostat itself, about 1/3 of the price.
 

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Just got in from replacing my thermostat, with success ! Thanks to all who have posted in this and other threads, it wouldn't have been possible without you :)

And here is my experience,
You need to pull hard and wiggle to get the housing out initially, as said before, don't be afraid to PULL.
Again a bit of effort is needed to remove the t-stat from the housing. (pliers)
I left the gasket ring in the housing, was in good condition..just cleaned it.
I then gave the housing where the o-rings go. a really good clean up. Also the connector tubes as well as the engine side where the o-rings sit.
There was a surprising amount of corrosion on the housing where the t-stat seats, so that got a good clean too.
I lubed up all mating parts with vaseline and practised getting the tubes in and out without catching a ring, you really have to be surprisingly off line to catch a ring. I really think good lubrication on all parts is the key to this. They clicked in place.
The rest has been written before and thanks to all who contributed.

Now seeing a steady 79-80c
 

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This has been a great thread and will be ultimately helpful when I do mine this winter/early spring.
Question, I have seen many quote the Temp (ie 79-80deg) off a dial which has no numbers. What function or tool is used read water temp?
Thanks in advance.
Mx5
 

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The onboard computer can display the coolant temp, which is what I used. I had to search around a bit to find all the pertinent info, so I'll sum up here (hopefully to save you some time).

1) Unlock the test modes in the OBC per these instructions. (2nd page, post #11)

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/1898-gadget-freaks-ii-fun-you-never-knew-you-could-have-secret-menu.html#post14739

2) Once they are unlocked, you can hold down the right instrument cluster button for about 10 seconds until you see the test mode message. Press the right button until you get to test number 7. Press the left button once. You should now see a readout that says KTMP: xx C which I've been told is the coolant temp.

Based on my limited understanding, the t-stat should stay completely closed until you reach operating temperature of 79 degrees. If you are below 78-79 consistently AFTER the engine has had a chance to warm up, suspect that your thermostat is going or gone. Note that I'm far from an expert on this, just trying to sum up what more knowledgeable people that me have told me in one place. Good luck!
 

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14, 15, and 2x16

d-

Thanks Doug that great.

In your experience, is no 15 hard to identify? No one has done a DIY coolant change. If I can identify the bolts I will do one, take photos and have them added as a sticky in the FAQ. Im just not sure which 2x bolts to remove!

Neil
 

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In retrospect it is surprise how popular this issue has become... 2 years ago this was really not well understood, IMHO. (Or was I not paying attention?)

A
 

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Thanks Doug that great.

In your experience, is no 15 hard to identify? No one has done a DIY coolant change. If I can identify the bolts I will do one, take photos and have them added as a sticky in the FAQ. Im just not sure which 2x bolts to remove!

Neil
Left side (Bank 2) requires the heat shield be removed. Right side is fair obvious and apparent.

d-
 

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Neil,

Both bolts are tricky to get access and get good purchase on.... and on my uk car, one side had blue paint on it and the other side yellow ( on the bolt head ) easy to identify
With the plastic under shields off they are both easily visible without confusion to other fixings. The drivers side needs the heat shield off, so I am told.
I didn't undo the bolts as the access was too difficult....even more so than doing the thermostat, so I left them. imho
 

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Neil,

Both bolts are tricky to get access and get good purchase on.... and on my uk car, one side had blue paint on it and the other side yellow ( on the bolt head ) easy to identify
With the plastic under shields off they are both easily visible without confusion to other fixings. The drivers side needs the heat shield off, so I am told.
I didn't undo the bolts as the access was too difficult....even more so than doing the thermostat, so I left them. imho
I recall no trouble with either. Passenger side was wide open, and while the driver side required that I not use an extension, I certainly don't recall having any sort of difficulty getting access. socket + wrench = removed!
 
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