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Discussion Starter #1
I was talking to my dealer and they like the short shift kits but recommend NOT installing the stabilizer bars.

He said that it was just too stiff and can cause the tranny to fail when gears don't mesh. He said that there needs to be some play to get it into gear properly.

Also said an M5 was flatbedded in with a busted tranny with the shifter and stabilizer.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Ryan
 

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Thoughts?

Thought #1 - go to a different dealer who has a realistic concept of how the parts work.

Thought #2 - have him ask a BMW engineer if the original selector rod joint bushing is supposed to be stiff or have "flex". After the laughter subsides, put in a recommendation that the dealer have their franchise revoked for misleading customers.

Thought #3 - the DSSR system retains all of the movement of the design of the original selector joint as a true universal joint in two axis. In fact, because the parts are kept in their correct orientation by using the DSSR, you are not putting additional strains on the selector input as happens with a sloppy joint allowing forces in the wrong direction.

The UUC Evo3 shifter and DSSR system has been embraced by a long list of BMW dealers as the best and most durable system to upgrade the BMW system, and the DSSR in particular as a repair for bad selector rod joints that always wear out quickly.

I hope you were just using this dealership to buy some touch-up paint, and certainly not letting them service your M5.
 

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My thought is that the dealer has no idea what he is talking about. Just because a flatbedded car with a busted tranny has a short shifter with a DSSR doesn't mean the DSSR caused the damage. He's seeing a correlation (data point of one) and jumping to the conclusion there is causation. That makes about as much sense as blaming curb rash on the short shifter if the owner had come in for new wheels instead of a new tranny.

His explanation of the problem is also suspect. Why would there need to be play between the bottom of the shift lever and the top of the tranny input? It makes no sense. The shifter provides all the "play" anyone could need. Adding slop to intermediate linkages simply means the driver isn't able to manuever the transmission into the right gear with as much accuracy. I would think removing slop from this linkage would help, rather than hurt transmission longevity.

This is the classic behavior of a dealership who sees a problem with a modified car. The first step is always to blame the modification. Sometimes they take this to silly extremes. I had a rattling cat on my 1996 Impala SS. The dealer tried to blame it on my cold air intake (CAI), claiming it was setting up a resonance that caused the cat to vibrate. Yeah right! 1,000 other members of the Impala SS car club had this same CAI and nobody else was "setting up a resonance" to their cats. And they didn't want to hear that my cat ws doing this before I installed the CAI. They investigated and discovered the cat was defective. But I had to go back and forth with them before they would touch the car. They treated me like some dumb kid who had messed with the work of an artist and then was trying to blame my mistake on them.

I'm sure Rob will jump into this thread.
 

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DZeckhausen said:
I'm sure Rob will jump into this thread.
I underestimated the speed with which he would do so! :)
 

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This is a classic case of a dealer finding something to blame.

It reminds me of the dealer who blamed Dinan rear springs for subframe failure.

If they want to stick it to you, better be prepared. I have removed modifications from cars before visiting dealers for warranty work. This is why.
 

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Nice post Rob. I especially like thoughts one and two.

Can I have you speak directly with the dealer when and if I ever have a problem? I am just an not quick enough to respond to some statements. It is just like those situations where some one tells you something and five minutes later after you walk away you think of the perfect response.

Keep 'em coming Rob.
 

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mchin said:
Nice post Rob. I especially like thoughts one and two.

Can I have you speak directly with the dealer when and if I ever have a problem?

By all means, not a problem.

- Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #11
TXE39 said:
Hey Ag mind filling the rest of us in Houston what dealer this was?
Sure.

Believe it or not, this was the actual Dinan/aftermarket parts rep that told me this at Momentum on 59.

I had planned to do this mod and although his explanation didn't make sense, it did create a seed of doubt in my mind.

On a side note, has anyone installed the stabilizer bar after the shifter? Was there noticeable change?

Thanks all!

Ryan
 

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Yeah, that doesn't mean squat. When I was looking at a '00 at the north store (1960 location) the Dinan/aftermarket guru told me not to worry that it sounded like a diesel at idle until it warmed up hmmm So far it's only been purchased and returned once :hihi:
 

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It's absolutely pathetic the way some dealers treat their customers. These service managers and SA are so full of BS I don't know how they live with themselves. The lies that they come up with makes the mechanical side of me cringe. :nono:

Ag02M5, RUN man to another dealer or find a good independent as quickly as you can. DON'T LOOK BACK. :M5launch:

I think the vote's unanimous

Joe
 

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I have a good one (this one's on the north store in The Woodlands). I noticed one night driving in the far left lane on the freeway that my headlight was shaking violently. I could see it on the barrier wall. I took it in thinking no big deal - it's under warranty...wrong. They told me that the light was "broken" and they needed to replace the assembly - $1000 for 1 zenon headlamp. I told them how in the heck can they charge that for something where the expensive part isn't even broken - just a small piece of plastic...no answer. I hoped on the fest and asked about it and within minutes had the part number for the $14 item to fix the light. Went and picked up the part and took everything apart and fixed it in my breakfast room. Took about 2 hours (most likely a 30-45 minute job but I'm not as mechanically inclined as most). After that I second guess everything they tell me.
 

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TXE39 said:
I have a good one (this one's on the north store in The Woodlands). I noticed one night driving in the far left lane on the freeway that my headlight was shaking violently. I could see it on the barrier wall. I took it in thinking no big deal - it's under warranty...wrong. They told me that the light was "broken" and they needed to replace the assembly - $1000 for 1 zenon headlamp. I told them how in the heck can they charge that for something where the expensive part isn't even broken - just a small piece of plastic...no answer. I hoped on the fest and asked about it and within minutes had the part number for the $14 item to fix the light. Went and picked up the part and took everything apart and fixed it in my breakfast room. Took about 2 hours (most likely a 30-45 minute job but I'm not as mechanically inclined as most). After that I second guess everything they tell me.
Even if you had to pay the labor to install the $14 part it would be OK. I tell my customers if you think it sounds outrageous, it probably is. hmmm Go with your gut.

Joe

Sorry for the rants
 
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