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Discussion Starter #1
My car is stuck in gear at the track. The SMG started freaking out and then the car stopped. Tried a couple of ignition cycles with no change. Waiting for a tow truck.
Any ideas while I'm waiting? Did not bring the laptop.
 

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My car is stuck in gear at the track. The SMG started freaking out and then the car stopped. Tried a couple of ignition cycles with no change. Waiting for a tow truck.
Any ideas while I'm waiting? Did not bring the laptop.
What gear? Red or yellow cog, or nothing on the dash?


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Discussion Starter #7
I tried that for five minutes. Now I'll try 20. I also manually ran the relay for the pump.
 

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At this point it can be a number of things but if you don’t hear the pump priming then it could be a bad pump or bad relay (fingers crossed)...


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MFing gear position sensor wiring insulation rotting off.

Stuff trunk full of tannerite and find a nice rifle...
 

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Dang at least you’re safe. you took the car out without your laptop and ISTA. That’s a big no no for SMG M5 ownership. I bet you’ll never make that mistake again or maybe I’m over reacting and hating on M5s...

its not the god damn relay...

what’s the mileage on your clutch? Symptoms could be worn out clutch. I’ve had those symptoms this winter and clutch was indeed worn out. Plan on redoing the gear sensor wiring.
 

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Assuming you mean you jumped the relay terminals when you say you manyally6 activated it, did the pump run? Note that taking the relay off with ignition on is a sure 4f43 etc which means smg ecu stops commanding pump on.
 

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Funny how a laptop is mandatory with our cars... I've always taken it to the track, luckily haven't had a need for it (yet).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I dropped this in the track thread but I should post it here as well.

I went out this morning an had a look with INPA. I snipped all the pages for future reference. It was still in 4th gear and the shifter was locked in the neutral position. I ran the SMG and trans cooler pumps through the software with no problems. The SMG pump cut out at 85 and the pressure drifted down faster than I would have liked.

I cleared the codes(3) which were all hydrolic unit in nature. With all of the fancy pages copied for future reference I commanded the trans to neutral and with a thunk it was in neutral. I shifted a few other gears with no ill effects other than the sound of the gears shifting. After that I ran the adaptations which was interesting to watch and hear. I took it for a drive. No problems but of course its nothing like being on the track.

My thoughts are that maybe the accumulator is in question. In addition to reducing short cycling it would add volume when there is a lot of shifting going down. It's on the list as an easy replacement. No other complaints, I wish I could have gotten more laps in.

I forgot to mention, I was in S6, DSC off, 500p. The car tried to stop me from having fun but I wouldn't have it and paid the price.

The clutch has about 10,000 miles on it and as far as the relay I pulled the cover off the relay to watch it and activate it with my finger. The pump ran but it did not fix anything.
 

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As it's been said already the ecu stops turning the pump on when certain pressure codes are stored. I know you did this not long ago, but your symptoms match the typical pump motor brush issue or low hydraulic fluid. Either can cause pump run time to be too long then target pressure not reached then ecu times out and quits. You prob changed the relay recently so that can be ruled out.

As for the accumulator it's pressure increases with temperature (as any gas does) so high temps help. If it had an issue it'd be worse when cold. But oring/valve leakage increases when hot as oil thins out. Have you run the accumulator precharge test? Unless it's seriously out of range I highly doubt it has anything to do here.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have not run the precharge test, I suspect worn o-rings due to age. The accumulator is low hanging literally and of course I can check the fluid level. The relay is new and the motor was just serviced. The variable is the Euro tune which is new and untested on the track. I am prepared to go deeper if this continues but for now I'm going to see if the problem persists.
 

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OP - Interesting you mentioned S6, DSC off.
Perhaps off topic, and/or perhaps the topic of a separate thread if others think I might not be totally crazy, but in my 9ish years of owning my 06 (known as Elguapo on the streets of Miami) I have had a trouble free Euro tuned SMG (RIP to Vodyk who showed us the way) with only a very few SMG "spasms" but every time (other than voltage and wheel speed sensor issue, and another that seemed to be associated with the Red setting on a SprintBooster) I was either in S6 or had just come out of S6 (such as the first restart/drive cycle afterward).
I've seen numerous mentions of board members posting about issues that occurred in S6 and I have been quietly wondering for some time if there might be something at play here.
Qualify that with by definition I understand that the beast is likely being pushed hard while in S6 but in each of my (very few) S6 SMG "spasms", I was in city traffic.

My question is, how much stress if any, does driving in S6, DSC off in everyday traffic place on the SMG as opposed to other settings?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Some interesting thoughts. First would be to stay out of S6, does it really shift any faster than S5? I do also have a sprint booster that is always in race mode. As the SMG and DME work together maybe the booster could contribute to occasional problems. With all of the calculations going on one may never know for sure? The gain in the seat may not be worth the margin left on the table in the name of reliability.

In my experience(one year) the throttle controls the shift dynamics more than anything else. If your foot is not on the floor even in S6 the car will not shift hard. My experience with clutches is get the clutch out and the car moving, slipping is the killer of clutches. The interaction between the engine and transmission with this kind of set up is very complex so a 1 or 0 missed here or there could cause problems.
 
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