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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Everybody,

First of all, I would like thank this great board... I've learn so much from just reading out posts from fixing problems to customizing the Beast...
This is one of the best forum I've been through, Board members here are so active and are loaded with knowledge about the Beast.


I recently purchased a 2006 M6, Clean title, 1 owner, with 59k miles, Coupe, SMG. The beast has always been serviced at BMW dealer throughout its lifetime from the previous owner. Anyways, I've decided to take it for a ride on the freeway (It was part of my fault that I didn't take it on a test drive on the freeway when I was at the dealer...) anyways, when I was in third gear, reaching about 80mph on 6k rpm, my beast gets a Engine Malfunction, and it lowers my rpm cap at 5k, and it basically goes into what you guys call "limp mode"... Immediately I pulled to the side and shut off the engine, I waited a couple minutes, turned the beast back on, and the Engine Malfunction light disappeared. I then decided to give it another try, got back on the freeway, pushed the beast a bit, same problem came up but this time, Emission Increased light tagged along. So I got off the freeway, restart the Beast, and now this time the Emission Increased light stood on but the Check Engine / Engine Malfunction light turned off. So I decided to just drive normal and get some help.

Luckily, I work at a car dealership with have our own service department, So I had one of mechanics read the faulty codes, after reading the faulty codes(sorry I forgot to write them down), it came down to that my cylinder 1 was misfiring with cut off... Then I decided to get a second opinion, I went to a local shop about 20 mins from my house called "The M Shop", supposedly they are specialized in BMW "M" cars... So I went there, they were very helpful, gave me a free diagnosis, same codes same description came on, Cylinder 1 Misfiring with cut off... The mechanic there told me that he thinks it is the Ignition Coil... So I had to schedule an appointment to get it replaced... the only problem is their wait time for the next appointment was about 3 weeks later... I then called my buddy over BMW dealer, he is a service writer, explained to him my situation, he told me that before I spent money on replacing anything, I should just switch the Ignition coil from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2, and then run it again and see of the same problem comes up. If the same problem comes up and its the code reads that it is still cylinder 1, then that means that the ignition coils are fine and maybe I just need new spark plugs. So I ordered 10 NGK spark plugs and replaced them myself, #5 and #10 is so hard... Anyways, I also replaced the Ignition coil on cylinder 1 myself... After finishing that, I turned on my Beast, drove it for about 15 miles, allowing the new spark plugs and the coil to kick in, instantly, I already felt the car was different, it was smoother, engine was idling better (before the engine would idle rather unstable i'd say... it goes up and down from like 600rpm to like 900rpm), and the Emission Increased light turned off by itself... I didn't even reset the codes or anything... Just drove the beast after the the light just disappeared...

Sadly... After I changed Spark Plugs, Ignition coil #1, Air filter, Cabin Filter... I decided to test it again... went on the freeway, same thing happened... car won't pass 5-6k rpm depending on gear and speed... (at this point I was pretty sad) so took it to work the next day, explained everything I've done to my mechanic, he then read the codes again, and same thing, Cylinder 1 Misfiring with cut off... He is now assuming that it might be the Injector #1... and the reason behind that is because he had a little handheld computer that was plugged in the beast, and it was reading how my Injectors was working (like if it was actually throwing gas to the cylinders) and we took it to a test. The results was that every time my beast passes 5-6k rpm, for some reason, Injector # 1 just like shuts off... While all the other injectors are still shooting gas to the cylinder, Injector # 1 just goes off... and then once I speed down and drive it for maybe about a minute or so, Injector #1 is back at work again... shooting the same amount of gas just equal with the other cylinders... So my mechanic is assuming that it might be Injector #1 is just failing...

But then the more I read about this board, I've been coming across the possibility that it might be the Ionic sensors...(At this point, I am kinda lost...)

I do have extended warranty on the beast... but since I just purchased the vehicle, my service adviser buddy at BMW told me to hold off, just drive the beast without pushing it, and wait for 3 months so that my warranty company won't denied my claim due to the possibility of being a pre-existing condition...

Its easy to say... but I am going through everyday of my life looking at the beast in my garage, driving it once a while but then I can't feel the full power of my beast... its just not easy for me...

I am asking for anyone who have similar or same experience like me and what is their 2 sense on this issue...


Sorry for the long post and thank everyone again for any bit of information you guys could spare me...

I am here to learn!

Regards

Tao
 

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Engine control module is shutting off that injector so it will not spray into misfiring cylinder. If it does not burn properly, it will come out unburnt and could damage cats and give bad emissions. Its a protection system.
Anyway if you already switched ignition coil and spark plug, try switching injector also as it could be bad anyway. If it still gives you 1cyl error then you have to look at engine mechanicals- compression, leakdown test.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Engine control module is shutting off that injector so it will not spray into misfiring cylinder. If it does not burn properly, it will come out unburnt and could damage cats and give bad emissions. Its a protection system.
Anyway if you already switched ignition coil and spark plug, try switching injector also as it could be bad anyway. If it still gives you 1cyl error then you have to look at engine mechanicals- compression, leakdown test.
Yeah... I am planning on doing that, switching my injector #1 with #2...

Does anyone know if there is a post that teaches you about replacing injectors on the Beast?

Please advicce!

-Tao
 
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If the injector was stuck open, the misfire would be constant and not just about 5k rpm.

This makes me think it is compression. This cylinder most likely will be around 125-psi of compression or less.

If the compression is around there, then you will never get rid of the misfire until you correct the mechanical issue with the engine. Either a bad valve spring or a worn cylinder is the issue.

Unfortunately, most times this was a pre-existing issue and why the car was traded in at the dealer. People part ways with these cars because something goes bad with the motor and they don't have the money to replace it.



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What are the actual error codes reported by the DME. Let's start there. The E60/E63 speak volumes, you just have to know how to interpret what it says.

Are there any "fuel adaptation" errors associated with the misfire?


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Discussion Starter #8
I would like to thank all of you for giving me valuable advice!!!

Here is the latest update...

I've narrow things down to the Ionic Modules... I swap my Ionic Modules from left bank to right bank, reset my beast, and took it for a spin and the misfiring came on again but this time is not Cylinder #1 again it is Cylinder #6.

So I believe that it is the Ionic Modules... I am ordering all the parts already, along with some other small maintenance item like some cold start compression hoses, coolant o-rings, oil cooler o-rings (oil cooler was leaking but not too bad), AC belt and Timing Belt...

All this would probably be done within a week...

I will keep you guys posted if my problem is gone after I get my beast back =)

Again, thank you all for spending the time to read and posting your advice!

I truly appreciate every one of you!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What are the actual error codes reported by the DME. Let's start there. The E60/E63 speak volumes, you just have to know how to interpret what it says.

Are there any "fuel adaptation" errors associated with the misfire?


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I am not very sure about the "fuel Adaptation" part... I will find out soon tho...

I haven't drop off my beast yet, when I drop it off, I am going to ask them to give me a print out of all the codes so I can post it here and hopefully help other members with similar issues.

Thanks Colley
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If the injector was stuck open, the misfire would be constant and not just about 5k rpm.

This makes me think it is compression. This cylinder most likely will be around 125-psi of compression or less.

If the compression is around there, then you will never get rid of the misfire until you correct the mechanical issue with the engine. Either a bad valve spring or a worn cylinder is the issue.

Unfortunately, most times this was a pre-existing issue and why the car was traded in at the dealer. People part ways with these cars because something goes bad with the motor and they don't have the money to replace it.



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You are right Troy,

It wasn't Injectors, the mechanics at the shop said something similar too, he said that if it was injectors gone bad, the system would of just completely shut down injector #1 to avoid further damage to the beast... and it wouldn't turn it back on after a while.

I am still not ruling the compression out, I narrow it down to Ionic Modules, but I won't rest assure that easily... after I get the Ionic Module replaced, hopefully everything comes back to normal, if not, then I have to start looking at compression and oil lines etc etc... Then the fun part really begins =) Hopefully not bad valve spring or worn cylinder T.T

But if it is a valve spring or worn cylinder, it should be covered in the power train part of the warranty no?

I agree... I do believe this was a pre-existing condition before I even got it, because like it said... The same day I got the beast, I already got the problem, unless I am this bad luck... I don't really think it is a coincidence that the same day I purchased the beast, the same day this problem comes up...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
if you moved sensors and fault moved also, you have found your mistake
I hope so...

Like I said, I believe I've found the problem, but I will keep my self not to excited... because after I get it back, I am going to test things out, and if something pops out again, then I wouldn't be too disappointed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Just to update everybody...

This are all the things I had to do to my beast...

1. Remove and Replace Air Injection Hose (leak due to hose deforming)
2. Remove and Replace Oil Cooler (Crack at one of the oil lines inlet)
3. Coolant Flush (Just a free service)
4. Replace Return Hose (leak due to O-Rings and deforming)
5. Replace Temperature Sensor (No idea why but okay...)
6. Remove and Replace A/C and Serpentine Belts (I believe the previous owner let this Beast sit for a while and the belts were starting to crack from the inside)
7. Remove and Replace Ionic Control Module (This was the main problem that was causing my beast to misfire)

All parts and labor included came out to be about $1800 total... I am getting about 10% discount plus no tax because I know the shop owners personally... So my total would come up to about $1600ish...

I know it hurts but I am expecting to get back my beast today... I will update you guys again on how my beast performs after I get it back...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay guys...

Got my beast back today...

Everything is running smooth and perfect...

My first time ever to 8k RPM, OH MAI GAD... this thing is just a stream of endless power all the way to 8k RPM... If I am not wrong, I got it up to 100mph on 3rd gear reaching about 7k rpm... I can't imagine using all the way 7th gear... LOL... I think I just woke up a monster...
 

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Okay guys...

Got my beast back today...

Everything is running smooth and perfect...

My first time ever to 8k RPM, OH MAI GAD... this thing is just a stream of endless power all the way to 8k RPM... If I am not wrong, I got it up to 100mph on 3rd gear reaching about 7k rpm... I can't imagine using all the way 7th gear... LOL... I think I just woke up a monster...


Hey Man,

Once you had the ionic Module replaced, did you notice a smoother idle upon start? I've also traced my mis-fire back to a faulty ionic module. However my car seems to idle a bit rough, i've changed all 10 plugs. I'm just hoping the rough idle is associated with the ionic module.

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey Man,

Once you had the ionic Module replaced, did you notice a smoother idle upon start? I've also traced my mis-fire back to a faulty ionic module. However my car seems to idle a bit rough, i've changed all 10 plugs. I'm just hoping the rough idle is associated with the ionic module.

thanks
It did idle better, but from time to time it still idles weird... goes from 500 rpm to like 800 rpm back and forth.

I have been digging up and reading some older posts, I believe that the VANOS might be one of the reason why our idle is unstable...

But I wouldn't say I am 100% sure...
 

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It did idle better, but from time to time it still idles weird... goes from 500 rpm to like 800 rpm back and forth.

I have been digging up and reading some older posts, I believe that the VANOS might be one of the reason why our idle is unstable...

But I wouldn't say I am 100% sure...

good to know.. i'll see what i can dig up on my end
 

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I have similar problem, two faults registered:
-misfire with cutoff cylinder 7
-fuel pressure control adaptation

Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
 
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