[Burnout_187]

Symptom: Cruise control does not activate, when green light is on. Or activates for few seconds and then disengages.

I had error code for brake pedal switch so i assumed that was the problem. Allso in TIS repair instructions it says that brake pedal switch is problem for those symptoms. After change, no difference.
After that searched for cruise control module, found one at realoem for M5, part number: 65718375497.
Ordered it from ebay and was ready to change it but i could find it. Seems that M5 does not have one, regarding realoem says that it has.

Okay, last change. gear position switch...Nbr #1

well, it wasn't switch itself, it was spring behind it.

Here is the location for the switch.

You need 22mm spanner, open switch, remove it. Then remove spring and pin. Replace spring and put it back in right order. Tighten it and your cruise control should work now.
Partnumber for spring: 23 31 7 511 337

Luckily i had my old gearbox lying around so i got spare parts immediately.

 

[tmaschm]

Thanks! I need to do this!

 

[68FB]

Thanks! I need to do this!

Just curious, how do you know you need to do this? This is a pretty rare failure.

 

[tmaschm]

Just curious, how do you know you need to do this? This is a pretty rare failure.

Well my cruise control isn't working. Green indicator comes on but won't set at speed. I don't think it is the brake pedal switch as my lights work fine. Also I don't think its the neutral safety switch as the car won't start if the clutch isn't pressed in. That leads me to believe it's this spring. I've heard of it breaking on more than just this guys car so it must not be all that rare.

 

[rvt1000]

Well my cruise control isn't working. Green indicator comes on but won't set at speed. I don't think it is the brake pedal switch as my lights work fine. Also I don't think its the neutral safety switch as the car won't start if the clutch isn't pressed in. That leads me to believe it's this spring. I've heard of it breaking on more than just this guys car so it must not be all that rare.

Another possibility may be your gear indicator switch and reverse light switch on the transmission. It may have fell loose, or switched if you did any transmission work as both cables plug into the same style connectors. I had the same issue and mine were plugged into the wrong connector. Easy way to tell is if you are in any gear do your reverse lights turn on ?. When the gear indicator switch is plugged into the reverse light cable the car does not know what gear it is in hence no cruise. Easy fix if that is the case.

 

[Burnout_187]

Another possibility may be your gear indicator switch and reverse light switch on the transmission. It may have fell loose, or switched if you did any transmission work as both cables plug into the same style connectors. I had the same issue and mine were plugged into the wrong connector. Easy way to tell is if you are in any gear do your reverse lights turn on ?. When the gear indicator switch is plugged into the reverse light cable the car does not know what gear it is in hence no cruise. Easy fix if that is the case.

In prefacelift cars they are same, facelift cars they have different connectors.

 

[aazeez1975]

If you have the transmission down for clutch change it is a good idea to change all the springs and little parts specially item 16.

 

[rvt1000]

In prefacelift cars they are same, facelift cars they have different connectors.

good to know

 

[68FB]

Well my cruise control isn't working. Green indicator comes on but won't set at speed. I don't think it is the brake pedal switch as my lights work fine. Also I don't think its the neutral safety switch as the car won't start if the clutch isn't pressed in. That leads me to believe it's this spring. I've heard of it breaking on more than just this guys car so it must not be all that rare.

In NA, cars had two clutch switches up to 09/2001. One was a Hall effect switch used by the DME for ABS, DSC, and cruise control (S32 in WDS), and the other was a conventional switch (S235) used for the start lock.

But if your S32 switch was bad, I would have expected you to have code 50 (hex 80), the one with the weird "switch chain grip" description, and no green light on the dash, so it sounds like you are on the right track.

I have seen those switch pins damaged but it was the roller and axle on the end getting chewed up, not the spring breaking like that, although maybe the one leads to the other. I replaced this pin a couple of years ago due to worry about the catastrophic damage it can do to the tranny. The old one was like new.

 

[Rontgen]

Could the status of these switches be viewed with INPA?

 

[68FB]

Could the status of these switches be viewed with INPA?

There's a Status Grip Switch on the Digital Values 1 screen.

 

[tmaschm]

Another possibility may be your gear indicator switch and reverse light switch on the transmission. It may have fell loose, or switched if you did any transmission work as both cables plug into the same style connectors. I had the same issue and mine were plugged into the wrong connector. Easy way to tell is if you are in any gear do your reverse lights turn on ?. When the gear indicator switch is plugged into the reverse light cable the car does not know what gear it is in hence no cruise. Easy fix if that is the case.

I don't think this is the case.

 

[tmaschm]

Hey OP my harness doesn't look the same as yours. It terminates at that bolt with a rubber looking stopper. I guess I just pull it off? I don't want to damage it because that harness looks expensive.

 

[68FB]

Like this? Then you disconnect at the connector to the left.

 

[tmaschm]

Yep that's exactly what mine looks like. I disconnected the side that si not on the bolt already. However I couldn't get the opposite connector end that is on the pigtail free of the bracket on the transmission. Is there an easy way of doing that? It has two tines holding it in. Thin screwdriver?

 

[tmaschm]

If I could just get that plug off the bolt I could get a 22mm socket on the end of it

 

[68FB]

I remember that connector being a bit tricky to get off the bracket.
If you can't get it, you could pull the two casing bolts that hold it on for better access. It wouldn't do any harm.

It looked to me like the wire going into the bolt was not removable so I used a 22 mm open end wrench to get it out.

 

[tmaschm]

Yea I thought about removing the casing bolts. Is there a torque spec on putting them back in? Also, I have a 22mm wrench, but it looks like that step on the transmission is going to make it difficult to get on the bolt. Any tricks to this? Did you come from the back of the transmission? Or did you somehow get it on there coming up directly from underneath?

 

[68FB]

I don't bother about torque specs for stuff like that, just go by feel. It'll be in TIS but if you don't have that, let me know and I'll see if I can find it.

It's been a while, I can't remember how I got access. I was working with the car on axle stands. Will the connector fit through a 22 mm box end wrench? Would that make it easier?

Another option if you have a grinder would be to slot a 22 mm deep socket, like an O2 sensor socket.

 

[tmaschm]

Ah yea both good ideas. I think I could get the connector through a box end wrench if I can remove it from the bracket. If not I also have a 22mm crows foot that I might be able to put on a small extension and get on it that way. Then as a last resort I can maybe cut a socket.

If you can find the torques for the casing bolts that would be great. I know it's overkill but as a novice with not much feel for for wrenching I'd rather be safe than sorry.