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Discussion Starter #1
Recently changed the smg clutch and slave cylinder went through the adaption process went to start the car and it just cranks started for a lil then stalled got a code for crank sensor replaced it with dealer sensor and still same problem
 

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Did you remove the flywheel? If so, there is a chance you misaligned it when reinstalling. The flywheel has a cut-out specificity used to tell the Crank sensor what position it is in. If not correct, i believe it will exhibit the symptom you describe.
 

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Did you remove the flywheel? If so, there is a chance you misaligned it when reinstalling. The flywheel has a cut-out specificity used to tell the Crank sensor what position it is in. If not correct, i believe it will exhibit the symptom you describe.
I didn’t remove the flywheel
 

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Just to clarify the engine stalled when cranking and you are getting a code for the crank sensor?
You could look at the engine speed while cranking with INPA and see if the sensor is being triggered.
 

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Yes it stalled Got a code for the crank sensor replaced it cleared codes and it’s still doing the same thing and now the crank sensor code came back up with a cam sensor code too now when we were doing the adaption for the new clutch and slave cylinder the voltage dipped under 12v so it wouldn’t adapt got a charger connected and started the adaption process again finished the adaption up until the last step for the clutch slip point where the car has to idle but that’s when it was giving trouble to start and run
 

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I'm going to assume that the trans is in neutral as the engine is cranking and the car ran fine before the clutch replacement. Can you observe the HPU pressure and activate the clutch and shifting solenoids manually? Short of that you may have to take another look at the clutch and see if something is hanging up? Make sure the battery is tip top, with voltage below 12 it should charge overnight.
 

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Make sure the battery is tip top, with voltage below 12 it should charge overnight.
I had this occur to me after changed the rod bearings on my SMG. The battery voltage was like 11.8v I remember seeing that displayed on ISTA. The car cranked but would not fire. I was scratching my head and then later replaced the battery with a new one that got as part of a warranty claim on another car. It fired up fine with that other battery which had something like 12.4v
 

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What’s more puzzling is the my 6MT has an older battery and I know the voltage does tend to drop on that after a few days when it’s colder and I don’t have the battery charger on it. The clock does it’s time/date warp. I’m pretty sure it’s had voltages as low as 11.8v, but it ALWAYS cranks AND runs. I can tell by strength of the crank that the battery voltage was on the weaker side but I never bothered to measure the battery voltage directly.

That was also why I thought it should not matter when I had an issue with the SMG car.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
That’s what I have to figure out might be a bad flywheel but can’t understand how it can go bad all of a sudden because I didn’t remove it before just unbolted the old clutch and bolted up the new one and then changed the slave cylinder after that car wouldn’t start
 
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