BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1061 - 1080 of 1098 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
Here is my contribution to the thread. New to me 2008 M5 with 81K miles bought in December. 3rd owner and piecing together the records. Very clean no accident car with the exact options i was looking for. What i know and have records to prove is about 10k ago the vanos HP pump and both vanos adjustment units with 4 new solenoids were replaced to the tune of $12K. She also has new tires and brakes so i figured she was well taken care of. But, i knew she needed a new clutch so took a chance figuring i could do the clutch myself. Had a pre(post)-inspection done at a very reputable local indie and afterwords had a list of things to tackle. Since I knew i would be dropping the transmission i would also do the RBs while i had her up on stands. First thing was a Blackstone report to establish a baseline. After the B/S report came back showing elevated copper i decided to inspect the bearing before buying all the parts and investing more. I had done the same on an e39 M5 only to find a spun bearing which necessitated a new motor. Needless to say i was concerned but dug into the bearings all the same. A couple of half days later i inspected all the lower bearings and the Crank Journeys. Fortunately the journals were in good shape. Remarkable considering the condition of the bearings below. Number 1 and 6 were by far the worst with mostly copper showing. Again though the crank journals were good and i breathed a huge sigh of relief and ordered all the necessary parts. This past weekend i finished installing the ACL Bearing and ARP bolts. I also took the opportunity to remove the Vanos HP Pump and Oil pump to replace the small screen filter above the vanos pump. This weekend i will reinstall both, set the Vanos pump lash and start buttoning her back up. Then ill move on the the clutch. Part one (bearings) also includes new motor mounts (one was shot), control arms and modifying the oil pan to add a second drain plug. Below are the old bearing and then the Blackstone report.
935393
I know they would not have lasted another 1k miles.
935394


After ive put about 500 miles on her ill do another Blackstone report and monitor her very closely afterwards.

Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
297 Posts
yep, Production date is 11/07. The pan is at a machine shop right now having a new bung added to the front. Ill post pictures when i get it back as the price was very reasonable. Based on the year of the car i expected a second also and questioned to myself if the motor is original. I have the motor number but have yet to find a definitive breakdown of what all 8 digits mean. 60503948
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
1,842 Posts
Weird. Mine is older 2007-10-09 and it has dual drains. Realoem suggests 03/07 as the cutoff date for the single drain pan. Wonder if your pan/engine was replaced at some point. I'll compare your engine number with mine later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Hi all, I tore into my car yesterday to get my rod bearing job started. One piece of information I could not find, was how much power steering fluid I would need to fill up with so I could order the correct amount. Does anyone know this info?

I realize I could've measure how much came out.. But it's too late for that now.

Hoping to help out future DIYers..

Also, you need a long slim T27 driver to access two oil pan bolts. That was when I walked away from the car last night. Buy the tool before you start so you don't get stuck like me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
You are correct, it is a T30. Thanks for that.. Mine were pretty loose, so fortunately I didn't strip the first two.
I ended up just stacking a few of those magnetic bit holders together to get into those two really deep holes.
936063


Anyway, here's a picture of my bearings. 77k miles on this motor. The PO had the first motor replaced under warranty at 65k miles. When I bought the car from him, he didn't think the car needed new bearings because an Indy told him it was fine unless he noticed issues. I was in shock, but talked him into a really good deal as a result.

Glad I changed them, looks like some of them are down to the copper. Any opinions on how these look?

936062


Also, I went with ACL +.001 and ARP bolts. This was my first time working on an S85, and I didn't find it terribly difficult. Anyone with decent experience wrenching can pull this job off IMO. I see a lot of threads about people looking for and indy with S85 experience. I think as long as the shop knows BMWs, they'll be alright.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
That was my experience recently too. Honestly yours look a lot better than mine did. I think it's funny how many shops/dealers are in denial that this is a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
I just couldn't believe that after already replacing the motor, he wasn't even interested in replacing the rod bearings. He 100% believed the opinion of the Indy.
I sent him the pictures of the bearings and he was pretty happy he sold the car lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
I just couldn't believe that after already replacing the motor, he wasn't even interested in replacing the rod bearings. He 100% believed the opinion of the Indy.
I sent him the pictures of the bearings and he was pretty happy he sold the car lol.
I did the same thing with the guy I bought my M5 from and he suddenly didn't feel so bad about how aggressive I was to lower the price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
2008 with 90,000 miles... not great looking, so I'm glad I changed them. Replaced with ACL +0.001":

936250


936251


936252



Crankshaft was perfect except for a slight scoring on one of the journals:

936253



I used BMW hardware and I regret it. It took forever and was a total PITA going through the torquing procedure. I didn't remove the oil pump, so the torquing was more difficult on cylinder 6 due to the pump interference. It would have otherwise been a breeze if I had used ARP bolts. Next time 😐.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
The peace of mind is nice.

I used BMW hardware and I regret it. It took forever and was a total PITA going through the torquing procedure. I didn't remove the oil pump, so the torquing was more difficult on cylinder 6 due to the pump interference. It would have otherwise been a breeze if I had used ARP bolts.
Not sure what setup you were using, but it really helps to have digital torque angle meter. It's not really that bad if you have one of those, and doing it on your back works pretty well to have the right level of support for your body. ARP's a 2x the price of OEM, but since you're going to be checking yours every so often thanks to your subrame mod, ARP probably is indeed better for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
The peace of mind is nice.



Not sure what setup you were using, but it really helps to have digital torque angle meter. It's not really that bad if you have one of those, and doing it on your back works pretty well to have the right level of support for your body. ARP's a 2x the price of OEM, but since you're going to be checking yours every so often thanks to your subrame mod, ARP probably is indeed better for you.
I printed out some templates I made, slipped them over the head of the bolt, and marked the head of the bolt and the the rod caps... Every single torque 😂. I thought "yeah, I'll be fine without it". A digital torque meter would have substantially reduced the time, but I would have still had to use this method on cylinder 6 since I didn't remove the oil pump and there wouldn't have been room for the device.

936254
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
So you didn't replace the internal vanos line? Nor vanos pump filter for that matter...
Not going to replace the vanos line if there's nothing wrong with it.. Unless there's a general consensus that they don't ever last longer than 90,000-100,000 miles.

I'm assuming to replace the vanos pump filter, you have to remove the vanos pump. So, unless that's not true, I'll replace it when I have to go back in for something else like the the vanos line. I'm kind of in a hurry to get everything finished since I've overshot my intended timeframe by a pretty large margin. I have a house for sale and don't want to be stuck with the car still opened up if I have a buyer wanting to close. Otherwise, I might have decided to remove the pumps to check everything out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
I guess I'm wrong about the vanos filter... Is it behind the regulator? All the diagrams I've seen say it's in the block. Or I guess maybe both of those things are true?

936256


@flacoramos I also just read in an earlier thread that your '08 model didn't have the filter. Did you add this filter since yours was missing one?
 
1061 - 1080 of 1098 Posts
Top